Question about Maytag MBB2256G Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

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Defroster not working. Matag MBB2256GES with bottom freezer

I turn the manual defrost timer until the compressor stops but no heat in evaporator compartment. Compressor starts up again in approx 1/2 hour. If I use blow dryer to defrost evaporator, the food compartment will stay cold for 2-3 days before having to use blow dryer again.

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  • Jim Reisinger
    Jim Reisinger Jul 28, 2010

    Since posting my problem, I removed the back cover in freezer compartment and checked voltage to heater element in defrost mode. There was 115V up to thermostat but no voltage to heating element. Turned off power and checked continuity of heating element. Continuity check was GOOD. This indicates to me that the thermostat is defective with either open bimetalic or high contact resistance dropping all the voltage across the thermostat

    Thank you for your help. The reference URL's were helpful

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You need to replace the defrost heater. This is easy to do and failry inexpensive. Here is a couple links that should help
http://appliancehelponline.com/defrostheatervideo.html
http://appliancehelponline.com/referdefrostheater.html

Posted on Jul 28, 2010

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Hotpoint FFA71 NOT DEFROSTING


Self defrosting feature is not working. Check defrost thermostat, defrost heater, defrost timer for proper operation.

Until repair is made, defrost the unit and turn back on until it freezes up again. Check the ice block at rear of freezer. If the ice is confined to the area around the refrigeration line coming into the freezer it is low refrigerant level. If the block completely covers the evaporator it is a non working defrost mechanism.

Nov 21, 2013 | Hotpoint FFA70 Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

Tip

What do do if your fridge/freezer is not cold


5 reasons for fridge and/or freezer getting warm:
1- the evaporator coils are icing up and won’t let air circulate.
2- the evaporator fan is not working to circulate air.
3- there is no refrigerant in the system.
4- no power to fridge or compressor.
5- the condenser coils have no air circulation

check under the fridge behind the vent. if it is too dusty or the fan isn’t working, it is not getting enough airflow to cool down. replace fan and/or vacuum out the dust.

if there is no power to the fridge, the light will be off. if the compressor is not running, there is a defrost timer that cuts the power temporarily to the compressor to melt ice on the coils. it’s located under the fridge behind the bottom vent. If the timer is off and the compressor is not going, the compressor or the main board is bad and needs replacing. there is also a temperature sensor on the evaporator coils that tells the defrost coil to turn on and when to turn off. if the defrost timer is on but the coil is not heating up, replace the sensor. if it still won’t heat up, it’s the timer or the coil.

the easiest way to tell if there is no refrigerant- the freezer wall is warm and the compressor is loud. if there is no refrigerant, it may be more cost effective to replace the fridge.

if you feel no air coming from the freezer vent, the fan needs replacing. If you feel air moving in the freezer but not the fridge, the channel from freezer to fridge is blocked.

if the freezer has air and the rear freezer wall has frost on it, the evaporator coils are iced up and need defrosting. causes:
1. low refrigerant
2. no fan
3. too much humid air in fridge/freezer due to door open or bad door seals
4. the condensate drain tube is clogged
5. defrost cycle not functioning properly

if the seal around the door is ripped or not completely sealing, or there is condensation at the bottom or the walls of the fridge, replace the seal(s).

no air, no fan. Replace

if the refrigerant is low, it just needs a top off. but you need to be certified by the epa to move refrigerant, so get a professional.

there defrost cycle starts with the timer. at a certain time of day for a specific time, the timer turns the compressor off and turns on the heater element located at the bottom of the evaporator coil. this stays on until the coil temp sensor reaches a certain temperature to let the timer know that the coils are defrosted and turns off the power to the element. the defrosted water drains to the condensate pan. if the timer is bad, it will never go into defrost, or never get out of it. if the element is bad, the coils will never defrost. if the temp sensor is bad, it’ll go into defrost, but it will either tell the timer that it’s always frozen or already defrosted, resulting in the element never turning on (stays frosted) or never turning off (eventually burning out the element).

on Dec 02, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Freezer needs to be defrosted every 3 to 4 days


d733fa48-872b-424b-a7d4-ec9c6fab3da9.jpg
Let's Try turning the defrost timer clockwise slowly. 67001036 Defrost Timer The defrost timer is item location 12 in this photo HERE and there should be a hole with a plastic plug covering the hole that you place the screwdriver through. Turn timer with a flat head screwdriver slowly until the compressor and fans stop. With fans and compressor stopped for up to 30 minutes the defrost heater should come on. If doing this causes the defrost to take place simply replace the defrost timer. If not then please let me know and I will instruct you on how to change the=> 67001794 Defrost Heater Assembly and the 12001937 Defrost Thermostat Thanks Sea Breeze

Jun 28, 2013 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Frost is building on the back part of freezer. Whirlpool refrigerator model ER2CHMXPL02 and has not cycled on/off for over 24 hours.


The reason your refrigerator will not cycle off is because it cannot satisfy the thermostat because ice is blocking air flow across evaporator inside the back wall of your freezer. I want you to look for a small hole inside the control panel where you can place a flathead screwdriver and slowly turn the timer clockwise until compressor and fans stop. If there is no hole there you will need to lower the control panel inside the fresh food compartment. Here is your replacement defrost timer should it turn out to not be good=> 2314156 Defrost Timer
11_21_2012_8_56_08_am.jpg

Once the compressor and fans stop I want you to wait up to 30 minutes to see if the compressor and fans restart. If they do not restart on their own simply turn clockwise again until they do. Doing this will test the timer and cause the freezer to go into defrost. If defrost does not work this way and ice buildup remains on the rear wall of freezer we will need to remove the rear panel in freezer and manually defrost the evaporator with a hair drier. This way we will be able to inspect the=> W10140847 Defrost Heater Assembly
11_21_2012_9_04_40_am.jpg

Also found here=> W10140847 Defrost Heater Assembly
and defrost thermostat=> 2321800 Defrost Thermostat I will be here should you have questions, Thanks Sea Breeze

Nov 20, 2012 | Whirlpool Refrigerators

1 Answer

My whirlpool ed5fgexss00 wont get cold


Look at rear wall inside the back of the freezer and see if a frost line is building on rear wall. I have a feeling your freezer is not defrosting properly and not sure exactly what number you model has but checking the defrost timer Click Here=> ED5FTGXKQ00 Controls is where I would begin.We will need to run a couple test to make sure your=> 2323198 Heating Element and Defrost Thermostat=> 2321799 Defrost Thermostat are working properly.Testing heating element is also shown on same page above.Try turning the defrost timer clockwise slowly until refrigerator compressor stops running. This will place the freezer in manual defrost. Then tell me if once you do this if freezer begins defrost. If yes then the defrost timer=> 482493 Defrost Timer is at fault. If stays in defrost simply turn again until compressor restarts again. After doing this I will want you to watch this how to replace defrost heater=> Here I know this may be a little confusing but defrosting manually will help you see which parts may be needed. I will be here to answer any questions you may have, Thanks, Sea Breeze

Jan 08, 2012 | Whirlpool 25.4 Cu. Ft. Side-by-Side...

1 Answer

Freezer cuts off and stays off for a long time before it turns back on, all my food in my freezer thawed out and I have to through it all out. My husband thinks it might be the defrost timer or the...


Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly.

Actually it sounds like the thermostat and the timer are working just fine. What appears to be happening is the timer is starting the defrost cycle but the defrost heater is not working. This will result in a horribly long defrost time until the freezer compartment reaches 60 deg F and the defrost thermostat at that point terminates the defrost cycle.

Defrost element Item 9 this link:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=48487&diagram_id=671582#d671582

Detailed view:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=4070730

Defrost thermostat item 12 above first link

Detailed view:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=4070255

You should read the resistance of the defrost heater by reading the yellow to blue wire (terminals 2 to 3) on the defrost control when the freezer comparment is below 60 deg F at the evaporator. No resistance = open defrost heating element. This is reading continuity though both the defrost thermostat and the heating element. If you do not get any resistance and you are sure that the freezer is well below 60 deg F then... and only then would the defrost thermostat be suspect.

Defrost control in the overhead of the fresh food compartment is located aft of the lights on the thinner section cand an be manually cycled by rotating the 2 tabs on the face of the timer dial. It will click and stop the compressor and evaportor fan ONCE each turn.
NOTE you must wait 10 to 15 minutes after cycling this so that the compressor will stabilize and restart. Once the comprssor and fan shut off the heater is supposed to turn on and melt the ice on the evaporator until the defrost thermostat reaches 60 deg F and once again provides power to the defrost timer motor to terminate the defrost cycle and restart the compressor.

Defrost timer is item 15 this link:

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=48487&diagram_id=663054#d663054

Detailed view:

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=4084056

This should be enough information to get you going. I still think that your defrost heater is not working either from failure or a wiring problem.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,

Kelly




Oct 14, 2010 | Maytag MTF1955GRW Top Freezer Refrigerator

1 Answer

The freezer isnt working, it is running not cold enough model number ARB190ZCS


Your model has a simple defrost timer inside fresh food compartment and behind control panel. I would see if I could manually turn the timer clockwise until defrost comes on and compressor stops. If after 25 minutes it does not turn itself back on turn the time again clockwise slowly until it restarts. Part number 67001036 Defrost Timer

Dec 16, 2009 | Amana ARB190ZCS Bottom Freezer...

1 Answer

I am also getting massive frost build up on the freezer side


depending on the model, 1-5 years. 5 reasons for fridge and/or freezer getting warm: 1- the evaporator coils are icing up and won?t let air circulate. 2- the evaporator fan is not working to circulate air. 3- there is no refrigerant in the system. 4- no power to fridge or compressor. 5- the condenser coils have no air circulation check under the fridge behind the vent. if it is too dusty or the fan isn?t working, it is not getting enough airflow to cool down. replace fan and/or vacuum out the dust. if there is no power to the fridge, the light will be off. if the compressor is not running, there is a defrost timer that cuts the power temporarily to the compressor to melt ice on the coils. it?s located under the fridge behind the bottom vent. If the timer is off and the compressor is not going, the compressor or the main board is bad and needs replacing. there is also a temperature sensor on the evaporator coils that tells the defrost coil to turn on and when to turn off. if the defrost timer is on but the coil is not heating up, replace the sensor. if it still won?t heat up, it?s the timer or the coil. the easiest way to tell if there is no refrigerant- the freezer wall is warm and the compressor is loud. if there is no refrigerant, it may be more cost effective to replace the fridge. if you feel no air coming from the freezer vent, the fan needs replacing. If you feel air moving in the freezer but not the fridge, the channel from freezer to fridge is blocked. if the freezer has air and the rear freezer wall has frost on it, the evaporator coils are iced up and need defrosting. causes: 1. low refrigerant 2. no fan 3. too much humid air in fridge/freezer due to door open or bad door seals 4. the condensate drain tube is clogged 5. defrost cycle not functioning properly if the seal around the door is ripped or not completely sealing, or there is condensation at the bottom or the walls of the fridge, replace the seal(s). no air, no fan. Replace if the refrigerant is low, it just needs a top off. but you need to be certified by the epa to move refrigerant, so get a professional. there defrost cycle starts with the timer. at a certain time of day for a specific time, the timer turns the compressor off and turns on the heater element located at the bottom of the evaporator coil. this stays on until the coil temp sensor reaches a certain temperature to let the timer know that the coils are defrosted and turns off the power to the element. the defrosted water drains to the condensate pan. if the timer is bad, it will never go into defrost, or never get out of it. if the element is bad, the coils will never defrost. if the temp sensor is bad, it?ll go into defrost, but it will either tell the timer that it?s always frozen or already defrosted, resulting in the element never turning on (stays frosted) or never turning off (eventually burning out the element). defrost solutions: unplug the fridge. remove the wall of the freezer that is frosted/icing up. use a hair dryer to melt the ice. do not get too close. you will see a drain under the evaporator coil. make sure it is not blocked. the water should run freely to a condensate pan under the fridge that evaporates the condensation with the hot line from the compressor. once the coil is free of ice, frost, and water, replace the panel and repair any of the problems that caused the icing up. plug the fridge in and turn it on. If it frosts up within a week, there is still an issue that not been taken care of.

Sep 11, 2009 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

Fan runs, but does not cool?


5 reasons for fridge and/or freezer getting warm: 1- the evaporator coils are icing up and won?t let air circulate. 2- the evaporator fan is not working to circulate air. 3- there is no refrigerant in the system. 4- no power to fridge or compressor. 5- the condenser coils have no air circulation check under the fridge behind the vent. if it is too dusty or the fan isn?t working, it is not getting enough airflow to cool down. replace fan and/or vacuum out the dust. if there is no power to the fridge, the light will be off. if the compressor is not running, there is a defrost timer that cuts the power temporarily to the compressor to melt ice on the coils. it?s located under the fridge behind the bottom vent. If the timer is off and the compressor is not going, the compressor or the main board is bad and needs replacing. there is also a temperature sensor on the evaporator coils that tells the defrost coil to turn on and when to turn off. if the defrost timer is on but the coil is not heating up, replace the sensor. if it still won?t heat up, it?s the timer or the coil. the easiest way to tell if there is no refrigerant- the freezer wall is warm and the compressor is loud. if there is no refrigerant, it may be more cost effective to replace the fridge. if you feel no air coming from the freezer vent, the fan needs replacing. If you feel air moving in the freezer but not the fridge, the channel from freezer to fridge is blocked. if the freezer has air and the rear freezer wall has frost on it, the evaporator coils are iced up and need defrosting. causes: 1. low refrigerant 2. no fan 3. too much humid air in fridge/freezer due to door open or bad door seals 4. the condensate drain tube is clogged 5. defrost cycle not functioning properly if the seal around the door is ripped or not completely sealing, or there is condensation at the bottom or the walls of the fridge, replace the seal(s). no air, no fan. Replace if the refrigerant is low, it just needs a top off. but you need to be certified by the epa to move refrigerant, so get a professional. there defrost cycle starts with the timer. at a certain time of day for a specific time, the timer turns the compressor off and turns on the heater element located at the bottom of the evaporator coil. this stays on until the coil temp sensor reaches a certain temperature to let the timer know that the coils are defrosted and turns off the power to the element. the defrosted water drains to the condensate pan. if the timer is bad, it will never go into defrost, or never get out of it. if the element is bad, the coils will never defrost. if the temp sensor is bad, it?ll go into defrost, but it will either tell the timer that it?s always frozen or already defrosted, resulting in the element never turning on (stays frosted) or never turning off (eventually burning out the element). defrost solutions: unplug the fridge. remove the wall of the freezer that is frosted/icing up. use a hair dryer to melt the ice. do not get too close. you will see a drain under the evaporator coil. make sure it is not blocked. the water should run freely to a condensate pan under the fridge that evaporates the condensation with the hot line from the compressor. once the coil is free of ice, frost, and water, replace the panel and repair any of the problems that caused the icing up. plug the fridge in and turn it on. If it frosts up within a week, there is still an issue that not been taken care of.

Sep 11, 2009 | Magic Chef Refrigerators

1 Answer

Cleaned the coils but freezer not freezing and inside not getting cold what is wrong


5 reasons for fridge and/or freezer getting warm: 1- the evaporator coils are icing up and won?t let air circulate. 2- the evaporator fan is not working to circulate air. 3- there is no refrigerant in the system. 4- no power to fridge or compressor. 5- the condenser coils have no air circulation check under the fridge behind the vent. if it is too dusty or the fan isn?t working, it is not getting enough airflow to cool down. replace fan and/or vacuum out the dust. if there is no power to the fridge, the light will be off. if the compressor is not running, there is a defrost timer that cuts the power temporarily to the compressor to melt ice on the coils. it?s located under the fridge behind the bottom vent. If the timer is off and the compressor is not going, the compressor or the main board is bad and needs replacing. there is also a temperature sensor on the evaporator coils that tells the defrost coil to turn on and when to turn off. if the defrost timer is on but the coil is not heating up, replace the sensor. if it still won?t heat up, it?s the timer or the coil. the easiest way to tell if there is no refrigerant- the freezer wall is warm and the compressor is loud. if there is no refrigerant, it may be more cost effective to replace the fridge. if you feel no air coming from the freezer vent, the fan needs replacing. If you feel air moving in the freezer but not the fridge, the channel from freezer to fridge is blocked. if the freezer has air and the rear freezer wall has frost on it, the evaporator coils are iced up and need defrosting. causes: 1. low refrigerant 2. no fan 3. too much humid air in fridge/freezer due to door open or bad door seals 4. the condensate drain tube is clogged 5. defrost cycle not functioning properly if the seal around the door is ripped or not completely sealing, or there is condensation at the bottom or the walls of the fridge, replace the seal(s). no air, no fan. Replace if the refrigerant is low, it just needs a top off. but you need to be certified by the epa to move refrigerant, so get a professional. there defrost cycle starts with the timer. at a certain time of day for a specific time, the timer turns the compressor off and turns on the heater element located at the bottom of the evaporator coil. this stays on until the coil temp sensor reaches a certain temperature to let the timer know that the coils are defrosted and turns off the power to the element. the defrosted water drains to the condensate pan. if the timer is bad, it will never go into defrost, or never get out of it. if the element is bad, the coils will never defrost. if the temp sensor is bad, it?ll go into defrost, but it will either tell the timer that it?s always frozen or already defrosted, resulting in the element never turning on (stays frosted) or never turning off (eventually burning out the element). defrost solutions: unplug the fridge. remove the wall of the freezer that is frosted/icing up. use a hair dryer to melt the ice. do not get too close. you will see a drain under the evaporator coil. make sure it is not blocked. the water should run freely to a condensate pan under the fridge that evaporates the condensation with the hot line from the compressor. once the coil is free of ice, frost, and water, replace the panel and repair any of the problems that caused the icing up. plug the fridge in and turn it on. If it frosts up within a week, there is still an issue that not been taken care of.

Sep 03, 2009 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

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