Question about Sanyo 18KS52 Air Conditioner

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Sanyo KMS0712: Evaporator coils severely clogged with dirt. Need to remove plastic exterior case to get access to coils and drip tray. How?A tech manual would be helpful. The sweep is also stuck. Unit hasn't been serviced in about 10 years.

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  • Gene Augustin Jul 29, 2010

    The response was for a SANYO listing of all of the Sanyo Split systems, no technical info on how to repair or dismantle

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Here is the service manual for your model unit...

click the link below to download the manual

service manual

here is the Schematic Diagram for your model which will be useful on cleaning and removing parts.

Schematic Diagram


    Inside the House
  1. Step 1 Remove the front grille. Most grilles are made to clip on the air conditioner, but some types might require a screwdriver.
  2. Step 2 Remove the filter to expose the condenser coils.
  3. Step 3 Use a vacuum cleanerSanyo KMS0712: Evaporator coils severely clogged - mag-glass_10x10.gif to **** up any dirt and dust on the coils.
  4. Step 4 Use a fin comb to straighten any bent coil fins. You can find fin combs at appliance parts outlet stores or from an air conditioning wholesaler.
  5. Step 5 Replace the filter and front grille.
    Outside the House
  6. Step 1 Remove the back grille. You should be able to see the evaporator coils.
  7. Step 2 Use a vacuum cleaner to **** up any dirt and debris on the coils.
  8. Step 3 Use a fin comb to straighten any bent coil fins. You can find fin combs at appliance parts outlet stores or from an air conditioning wholesaler.
  9. Step 4 Replace the back grille.
  10. Step 5 Trim any foliage back by at least 2 feet to reduce the amount of dirt getting on evaporator coils.
please refer to this additional link for reference

reference link

Regards

Posted on Jul 29, 2010

  • M.A.Z.ENGINEERING Jan 01, 2013

    I want buy 4 nos SPW- U361 G5 SANYO EVAPORATOR COIL

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  • Master
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Here you go:
http://us.sanyo.com/Dynamic/DocumentsManager/HVAC/KMS0712%20OK.pdf

Posted on Jul 28, 2010

  • Gene Augustin Jul 29, 2010

    The manual you referenced is just a listing of the various componts of Sanyo Split systems. There is no useful technical manual data.

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This is a simple fix but will take a little time to correct this. First of all, empty the freezer of food and shelving, ice maker if you have it also. The back wall in the freezer is a false wall, so gain access by removing screws and harness from top left corner. By the way turn off the unit or unplug it!! Now at the bottom of the unit far back you will see an ice glassier in the bottom middle is a drain hole that all the water is to exit after defrost. Well because its blocked with ice the water overfills and leaking into the refer section. Make sure you can use hot water to clear this out but make sure you cleaned out the entire drain system before reassembling this to restore cooling. Once clear you problem is solved.

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1992 dolphin rv duotherm ac still leaking after cleaning the drain tray holes


Have you checked evaporator fins/coils at front to see if it is those that are frosting up and need cleaning? Also make sure return air and cool air aren't mixing. If some cool air is getting in to return air, from other side, it will cause condensation as well. Some older models did suffer from cracks in drip tray as well. That requires removing cover on top and looking and sealing cracks in plastic drip tray under evaporator and condensor etc. Sometimes it works . Clean well and use good sealant if that's the problem.

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Freezer icing up


Experienced this problem with Evaporator coil icing up (coil is located inside back wall of the freezer compartment; the ice/frost was visibly blocking the series of louvers or slots along the bottom of the freezer back wall. I think the power outage caused partial melting of an already somewhat iced coil, but when the power was restored the water on the coil just froze solid. When these slots become obstructed the Refrigerator will not cool to its proper 36-40 deg.F temperature and the compressor motor runs frequently and the noise level is louder than usual. SOLUTION: fastest and safest way to Defrost this iced up coil is: (1) turn off 120V power / unplug refrigerator from the outlet; (2) remove all food to another refrigerator / freezer and take out ice cube tray & flip icemaker bail wire to its up (off) position - but leave top freezer basket in-place; (3) remove Bottom freezer basket (which should lift up and out; (4) move refrigerator away from wall - and carefully unscrew and remove white-painted, rectangular metal panel at bottom in the back....... you will see a white plastic water tray below a small fan with black plastic blades...... have a 3x5 cellulose sponge and bucket handy...... (5) open freezer door all the way and set a 21-inch box fan on the floor in the opening or area where the Bottom freezer basket was removed... put a single towel on floor under the box fan if there is significant frost on the bottom of the freezer compartment (there should not normally be any); (5) turn the fan to "Medium" speed with air flow pointing toward the freezer... you will be amazed at how much faster this works than pans of hot water or hair dryers (the latter is potentially damaging and dangerous); (6) with a flashlight you should soon see the water drip-drip-dripping from a spot at the center and bottom of the Evaporator coil - where it goes down a white tube and into the white plastic pan beneath the small fan you saw in Step #4; after awhile (maybe 20 minutes) check the white plastic tray in the back - which will be full of water (sponge it out)... continue defrosting with the 21-inch box fan... check the plastic tray again - and sponge out the excess water. A completely iced-up coil will probably fill the plastic tray three times. Eventually the water will stop dripping - which means the Evaporator coil is completely defrosted. There may be some water that gets onto the floor under the left side of the refrigerator which you will have to wipe up. Reattach the metal panel and reinstall the Bottom freezer basket and ice tray. This process takes long enough that you can clean the inside of the refrigerator while you're at it.

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I have a duotherm 15000 rooftop rv air conditioner that leaks


On most rooftop air conditioners, you can see the inside (evaporator) coils by looking up through the air return- some models are easier than others, though. This was a Coleman Mach series, so I could just see the coils, but could not access them for a good cleaning, so a trip to the roof was in store.

Getting access to the evaporator coils is not very difficult, you do have to remove the plastic shroud, and then some sheet metal on the front-

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Roof Top Air Conditioner- exploded view

This is an exploded view of a DuoTherm BriskAir, but standard Coleman units are pretty much the same. A tip- when removing the screws that hold the sheet metal cover on, pay attention to the screws- there will usually be a few that have a blunt end on them, these are meant to usually go in to the electrical compartments, or where there are wires or tubing. You do not want to find out you put a sharp pointed screw back where it was not used originally.

Once you have the sheet metal cover off, I use a stiff bristle brush to “comb” any large lint off of the fins. Once the “big stuff” is gone, I use a good degreaser- I use VoomRV, because it is PH neutral and a great degreaser, Coleman recommends “Formula 409′. I tend to shy away from most commercial A/C coil cleaners as they are often very harsh on aluminum- they clean the aluminum coils well, but I don’t want the cleaner running down the side of the RV (something you don’t have to worry about in home units).

I soak the coils well, then lay heavy towels over the air intake to catch any water (I put towels inside as well- just in case), then spray the coils off.

This is a good time to check the drain holes for the condensation- there will be holes in the bottom pan on either side of the tray the coils sit in. It’s easy to clean them out. It’s also a good idea to check the gasket-
Air Conditioner gasket measurementmake sure the bottom of the unit is at least 1/2′ above the roof -

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It is also a very good idea to check and clean the outside, or condenser coils. Sometimes they will be very clogged- as in the case from Dudes RV Air Conditioner page, but sometimes they might still look clean. Even if they do look clean- clean them any way! In air conditioners that have not been cleaned for a couple of years- and the unit has been used- I will consistently measure a 2 amp drop in current – just from cleaning. You will be amazed at the dirt which will come out of a clean looking coil.

While you are up on the roof with the shroud off, it is also a good time to check the fan motor- some units have oil ports- if yours does, put a few drops of electric motor oil in each port. You can also check the condenser blade. Another unit I serviced ( a DuoTherm) had a fan blade that was starting to go- it was cracking around the shaft attachment, which made it just a little of balance- to the point where it would hit the sheet metal every now and then.

I’ve got to say- RV roof top air conditioners are about the most reliable component on an RV, but they do need regular maintenance. As with most things I talk about, given regular maintenance, they will give years of service. Often RV air conditioners are replaced simply to add new features and lower current draw, not because there is really anything wrong with them.

Hope helps.

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My fujitronic is leaking water. Any solution?


hi friend,

Instructions
  1. Step 1 Pull the air conditioner from the window on a mild, sunny spring day. The sun shine will help in rapidly drying out the air conditioner after you perform the next routine process.
  2. Step 2 Place the air unit on a firm surface. Preferably a concrete slab or a few old boards. Do not place the unit on grass or dirt.
  3. Step 3 Use the screwdriver and remove the outer metal housing of the air conditioner. There are generally 4 to 6 screws along the lower edge of the cover that holds it to the frame.
  4. Step 4 Observe the inside of the air unit. Note that there is a plastic drain tray on the bottom. This drain tray carries away the condensation water from the cooling coil and allows it to flow to the outdoors and drip to the ground. The drain tray is plugged from last seasons collection of dust and bacteria growth.
  5. Step 5 Use the cup measure and pour some house bleach into the plastic tray. Allow the bleach to "work" on the nasty solids that have collected there for about 5 to 10 minutes.
  6. Step 6 Connect the gardenmag-glass_10x10.gif hose to the outdoor spigot and attach the spray nozzle to the hose.
  7. Step 7 Spray in the interior of the air unit with the moderate pressure from the spray nozzle. Force the water into the plastic drain tray and remove all of the solid debris that is laying there. Spray the interior and exterior coils as well since you have the unit cover off. You will have to remove the interior filter as well. Clean the filter while it is exposed.
  8. Step 8 Place another cup of bleach into the plastic drain tray and allow the liquid cleaner to set for about 5 to 10 minutes than thoroughly rinse the unit with fresh water. The inside area should be thoroughly clean.
  9. Step 9 Allow the unit to completely dry in the sun. When dry, replace the exterior cover and place the unit back into the window. The unit will be cured of leaking for another cooling season.
Tips & Warnings
  • Weekly cleanings of the interior filter will help in alleviating bacteria build up in the drain tray. Living in an outdoor dusty environment may create the need to perform the bleach cleaning more than just once a year
thank u for using fixya

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sivaranjini

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1 Answer

Fridge-side not cold enough


A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer

  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)

  • The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem


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