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Refrigerator will not run on gas. worked just fine this weekend ,switched to 12 volts for the ride home and then the problem started . Can here the cicuit board clicking ,pilot starts then after about ten seconds flame goes out and lights on refrigerator starts blinking . Any help would be appreciated .

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  • Refrigerators Master
  • 3,083 Answers

It could be a bad thermocouple or regulator valve. Here is a good web blog about the problem, and should give you a hint about your problem:
http://www.popupportal.com/index.php?topic=36888.0
Good luck and hope this helps.

Posted on Jul 28, 2010

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Question: I have a trailer camper it has a Dometic Rm 2652 Ameri. refrig.


If I remember right on those, the system works off 12 volt--120 volt-- or propane (LP gas). have you tried one of the other power source to run it off of?? If you get the same type cooling results the problem is probably a small leak in the freon system. Those use special internal gas. When I worked for GE the only way to fix them was to replace the complete cooling system which came pre-charged with the special internal gas. Quite expensive after the warranty. Now if you switch power source and one of the other sources make it work the problem will be with the type power you were using when it failed to cool properly. Many people that had system problems with those camper type refrigerators removed them and installed a small regular dorm style refrigerator that could only be run off a 120 volt power system. You would need a 12 volt to 120 converter to run it while on the road if thats what you want to do.

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It runs the battery down


Does your frig have 110, Gas and 12 volt setting? ... or is it auto select?

This is the way they should work ... if there is 110 Volts, it should run on 110 volts. The device is still controlled by 12 volts but the heat source is electric. If there is no 110 volts, it should switch to gas as a heat source. Same deal with the control, runs on 12 volts. If there is no electric and no gas, it should select 12 volts for a heat source ... same deal with the control. Problem with 12 volt source for heat is it GOBBLES up the power in your battery.

How is your battery? Do a volt test on the battery and the charger. Charger should run about 14 volts. Battery should provide at least 11 volts. If it is such that you can measure the acid, a good reading is 1200. Your charger can provide only about 15 amps charging power. Your battery should be able to provide up to 110 amp/hours.

If you do have electric and gas, it may not be your frig that is killing the battery ...

Thanks for your quesiton @ FixYa.com

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I have a Norcold 323 Refrigerator in a camper that will not cool when operating on AC but does work on gas, ( I cant test the DC as I dont have a 12 volt power sorce). After running in on gas for a while...


the unit runs on gas(LPG) so the unit is operational
by ac I take it you mean mains power and by dc you mean 12 volts it being a 3 way cooler
you cannot "jump start" a gas system so I am a bit lost with that statement
check the heating element in the unit for continuity as both the mains and 12 volt power only heat and element that boils of the coolant liquid in the system the same as the lpg flame does
it could be a relay problem for the electrical part

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no these units run on 12 volt aswell check your fuses or and be sure u are getting atleast 10.5 volts to that fuse

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One of two problems. The auto switch is bad or the lower circuit board is not doing its job. You can call norcold technical or take the board to a service center and have it checked with the tester they should have. The lower board retails for 176.00. I looked at my tech file and it is a little vague on your particular situation. If I were repairing your fridge I would take the smart route and call technical. Hope you get your problem solved. If you need more help please feel free.
Regards

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