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Re: its not making ice
Check to make sure that the drain is not leaking and that you are not adding water continuously...the warm water entering will keep the ice from forming...
Also check the condenser coil or water exchange to make sure that the refrigeration is working properly...a dirty coil or not enough water through the heat exchanger will do that also...
Finally you may have a refrigerant leak and the coils are getting cool but not freezing...
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Ice forms rather slowly in most refrigerators, and should start producing ice in about an hour. A few things to check, first is the water turned on, I seen more than 1 valve in the water supply. If your refrigerator has a water dispenser, it should dispense water. If it does then it is probably not an isolation valve problem. If you see and hear water valve open and in some models you can reach into the ice cube forming trays and feel the water present. I have seen some that the ice forms but the motor shaft had sheared, on another the linkage had cracked and fallen off. It was making ice but could not harvest. If it is making ice and not harvesting, you generally need to replace the ice maker. You may try the model number on Searspartsdirect.com and see if they have the part that is broke.
Hope this helps and by now you have ice.
Sounds like the auto defrost drain in the freezer is blocked with ice and the water is draining down into the refrig box. Usual cure is to remove inside panels in the freezer to expose the cooling coils area. Then use a hairdryer to melt the ice. Plenty of rags for this. Next you must clear the ice blockage in the drain. Make a loop of #12 or #10 copper wire (bare) about 18 in long. Hold it with a pair of pliers while you heat it with the hairdryer. It will slowly melt the ice in the drain hole. Pour hot water through the drain until it come out on the drip pan below. Now you need to see why the ice forms. Just above where the drain hole is under the coils should be a calrod heater that is powered by the defrost timer to melt the ice. It sometimes gets out of position. Another possibility is the failure of the defrost timer. If you can rotate it manually see if it initiates a defrost cycle. If so and does work, check wirinf connectors at the timer. If OK replace timer.
Check the condenser coil to make sure it is cleaned out, also make sure the condenser fan is no dropping out. Next check to make sure the water fill valve is not seeping water past into the sump tray if so than it will not freeze, Water will get cold but not cold enough to freeze check water temp in sump tray with a thermometer to make sure it is getting down to 32 deg.
The ice will melt during the defrost cycle. Make sure your freezer is cold enough, at least -5, preferably -10. also, if your freezer is not full of food, put some milk jugs full of water in there to take up space. This will keep the temp colder when the compressor shuts off for the defrost cycle. if there is too much empty space, there is not enough mass to stabilize the temperature and keep it cold.
As long as the ice trays are filling with water, it's not actually the function of the ice maker to make ice. Ice simply forms because the freezer compartment is cold.
The icemaker's function is to sense when ice is formed in the trays and to dump the ice into its container.
This requires the use of a thermostat to sense the water/ice temperture and 'tell' the icemaker when it's time to dump the ice.
During the dump cycle, a heater briefly comes on as the arm swings through the ice cube compartments to assist in loosening the ice cubes and make them easy to dump.
If the icemaker is filling with water but you get no ice, I suspect that either the control circuit (thermostat, relays, and wiring) is not 'telling' the heater to come on, or the heater is burned out.
Some units also have a timer circuit such that both the timer contacts and the thermostat contacts must be close in order to initiate a dump cycle (i.e., it must be time to dump and the water in the cubicles must be frozen).
A skilled homeowner could make these repairs, but if you don't feel comfortable taking your icemaker apart and testing the components, I advise leaving the job to a qualified repairman.
I would not change the pump. If it runs for 3-5 minutes and stops, it has to be a control. The control board runs the freeze cycle for the first 5 minutes. This prevent "Short Cycling" of the freeze cycle. The board looks at the float after the first 5 minutes for the proper water level but should not effect the pump. If the pump does not run in the wash mode, check out the "Power/ Wash" switch. I would start there before I go spending hundreds on pump motor or control board. You may be able to get by on a $20 fix! Do this and get back to me. We will get it going.
Check the bridge size adjustment at the top of the metal grid that the ice forms on. This determines the size of the cubes. Whenever you make a repair on the water system, especially on an older unit. make sure the unit is clean. A little bit of calcium deposits (or that other nasty looking stuff) getting into the passage ways will make it run erratically, and can drive you nuts.