Motor "bogs down" at roughly 120 psi...almost stops
Compressor will not reach the cutoff pressure of 200 psi. It geys to about 120 psi when the motor loads up and stops...I shut the switch before it does damage to the motor. I this a 2 stage pump that is somehow not working?
Compressor is 5+ years old with moderate homeowner use.
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Re: motor "bogs down" at roughly 120 psi...almost stops
You suspect this unit as being a two stage because of the unusually high cut off pressure. It is a single stage and the motor really has a difficult task and is being pushed to the limits. to reach this pressure. We usually reset the pressure to lower setting ~~ say around 140. Your pump probably has a leaking intank check valve (brass fitting at tank) or leaking valve plate in pump. Simple tests : with pressure in tank unplug compressor from outlet and listens for air leak around pressure switch. As you unplug the running compressor from outlet you should hear air leaking from pressure switch for just a moment as air is let out of airline from pump to tank. If air leaks out till zero pressure then change the valve. If tank holds pressure then valve probably ok. Next test, with no air in tank and air filter removed, plug in compressor and feel intake port for strong suction. If the valve plate is bad, suction will decrease as pressure neers the 120 mark till the point of feeling that air is actually blowing out of intake. With good valve plate there will be strong suction untill unit reaches set pressure. If valve plate is bad also change the cylinder and piston ring. Good luck with your repair.
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According to the information you provided your looking at a 10 HP motor at three phase. Do you have three phase at your location? If not I would look into getting a single phase compressor. If you do want to get it going I would notify your local IR dealer so they can get you the right Model number, RPM, Pulley and Motor Frame Size to match your unit.
Please read below....Jim...if this helped you please send me a positive response...Thanks!
Ingersoll-Rand Type-30 Electric-Driven Two Stage Horizontal Air Compressor - 120 Gallon - Fully Packaged IR 2545E10VFP
Designed for heavy shop or industrial use, Ingersoll-Rand Two-Stage electric air compressors provide the quality and performance that are ideal for most applications and users, including: automotive service and body shops; fleet maintenance; machine shops; production and manufacturing lines; construction; wood working shops; dry cleaners; car washes; maintenance/repair shops and farms.
Durable cast-iron, two-stage design offers extended pump life for years of trouble-free service 175 PSI maximum operating pressure
If you are using the air supply between when it stops and when it comes on again, then this might be normal. You havent mentioned what model/size compressor you have, but if is only a small 1-4 Gallon tank model, then these dont really hold a lot of air, and if you are using any air tool that uses a lot of air, you will be exhausting the tank supply VERY quickly, so the compressor fires up again to refill the tank.
If the compressor is only staying on for a split second after it fires up again, try plugging the compressor in directly to a wall outlet (ensuring the outlet is properly rated) and avoid using extension cords, which can leave the compressor with little power to overcome the tank pressure to kick over and refill. Compressors are best run directly connected to a main outlet, not via an extension cord.
There may also be a problem with the switching/regulating mechanism for the motor if it is jumping on and off in rapid succession. Check your regulator/tank pressure gauge. Take note of what pressure it kicks back on at, and what pressure it stops at. Many compressors will kick back in when the tank pressure drops to 80 PSI, and may stop when the pressure reaches 100-120 PSI.
I have a Few questions before trying to answer.Does the pressure go up quickly to 200 psi and down to 120 psi or does the pressure build slowly to 200 psi and slowly down to 120 Psi. Does this unit have a dryer built in or in the system. Are the pressures set correctly on the intellisys. Does this unit have modulation. What mode of operation is unit in. Pressure building up fast is an indication of an obstruction in the discharge line. It could be a valve positioned wrong or a dryer froze up. If the pressure builds slowly up and down it sounds like the intellisys settings are incorrect. If the unit has modulation and is operating in modulation it sounds like the cash regulator needs adjusting.
adjust your pressure switch on your compressor .remove the cap and turn the screw clockwise to increase and counterclockwise decrease.turn the screw counterclockwise a bit and release some air till the compressor start pumping.then just before to reach 120 psi turn counterclockwise to stop the compressor at 120.then release some air again till it cuts in again and look at what pressure it will stop.keep going that way till you get your 120 psi.cut in should be around 90 psi(30 psi differential)depending what kind of pump you have (if the pump can handle 150 psi )you can adjust it to cut in at 120 and cut off at 150 and install a pressure regulator adjusted to 115 to 120 and get a nice steady pressure going to your nail gun.(the best way to do it!!!)
I am almost sure what you have is only a single pump and should only rut out 125 psi tops. you should not exceed this with a pump of that type. If it is a 2 stage pump (one large and one small cylinder) they can commonly go to 175 psi. But as always check to see what the maximum pressure your tank was certified and do not ever exceed it.
when it reaches 120 psi it will cut out usually will cut back in at around 70- 80 psi if it struggles to restart at cut in pressure it may not be bleeding the head pressure om your compressor . this is done by the pressure switch which when shuts off releases a small squirt of air under it . to solve this problem you may need new switch . there is also the non return valve to check
It sounds like you will have to adjust the governor system to hold the throttle on the motor open more so it doesn't bog the motor down. There should be an adjustment screw at the carb to perform this.
Hope this helps