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This model of washer has something called an Automatic Temperature Control. This means the washer puts water into the tub at specific tempreatures instead of just 100% cold, or 100% hot. Be sure and check that the hot and cold fill hoses are connected to the proper places on the back of the washer. It's possible that the ATC (mentioned above) is causing the washer to fill slowly on the cold setting.
Your problem is either a clogged COLD fill valve or a bad water fill valve. Turn the water off. Remove the COLD hose from the WASHER. Check the filter screen inside the valve for sediment. If you find sediment,remove the screen and clean it. Replace the screen and turn the water back on. If you do not find sediment on the screen,replace the water valve.
most inlet water hoses have screens in them. You could remove the hose from the back of the washer and see if there is water flow. If there isn't, the hot water valve assembly is defective. These are solenoid operated valves that admit water into the tub. They can be accessed behind the washer after you remove the back.
Follow the two inlet hoses from the back of your machine. They should each end at a valve (one for hot and one for cold). Make sure that these valves are all the way counter-clockwise and that the hoses are not kinked or pinched.
Washer Basics: Filling with water: The water fill valve - The water fill valve is a mechanical and electrical part, the coils on the valve need electricity to mechanically open the valve to allow the water to flow into the washer....myth....the washer pumps water into itself...no, it does not. The fill valve opens and the house water pressure pushes the water into the washing machine. No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can test a fill valve live for 120 volts, power to a fill valve coil and no fill = a bad fill valve. You can also test the coils for continuity, no continuity = a bad fill valve. Some Maytag washers have a fuse in the fill valve circuit, if this fuse let go the washer will not fill. Fill valves can also from time to time stick open and not stop filling. If you have to shut off the fill valves to stop the water from filling in the washer, you have a bad fill valve and you will have to replace it.
Water level controls - The water level control is also know as a pressure switch, this is where you set the water level ( small - medium - large ). The water level control is responsible to shut off the power to the fill valve and direct that power to the timer so the washing machine can start up. The WLC has electrical contacts in it that sends power to the fill valve and when the WLC is satisfied the water level is correct the electrical contacts open power to the fill valve and send the power to the timer and the washer starts. Picture of thishere. How the water level control knows when it is time to shut the water off is, a air tight hose runs from the outer washer tank to the water level control. As the water fills the outer tank air is pushed up the hose, depending on which setting you have made ( small- medium - large ) is takes a certain amount of this pressure to make the WLC cycle over and shut off the water and send this power to the timer. If this hose develops a leak or a pin hole the washer can over fill as the WLC may not be able to shut the water off. The water level control can also break down and allow the washer to over fill as well. Testing a water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a Testing a water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter.Testing a water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter.Testing a water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. A couple of tips from readers (Thankx!! ): ~ If you have a loose hose on the water level control or tank end, use a plastic wire tie to help hold the hose tighter and make a tight fit. ~ The water level tube (tube that runs from the square box), access panel on the outer drum where the bleach tube also ends) from the pressure sensor switch (front panel) can become clogged. Or the two holes from the outer tub into this square box panel on the outside of the outer tub can become clogged. Either clog, I am told by my help repair guy can cause the sensor to think that there is still too much water in the tub and so will not allow motor to activate spin. ~ If the water level control contact is bad, it may also stop the filling ok, but not tell the washer to start agitating.