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Re: Am model Hobart dishwasher
Yes. Most of the AM models have a magnet on the RH door, and a corrospnding reed switch on the jam. Sometimes the magnet fractures in the casing and weakens its strength. Otherwise it is likely the reed switch.
On the more recent AMs, it you open the control box and there is a green board on the inside of the door. There will be an LED to show when the door is closed. Look towards the bottom right of the board.
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there is a door switch (reed switch) located inside (I believe) the top right side of the unit and there is a magnet in the same place on the door that triggers the switch. If it isn't adjusted right it wont sense the doors are closed. Odd that both would be doing the same thing. Here are the parts diagrams. Reed switch part number 00-473109 http://www.hobart.co.kr/data_file/LXi.pdf
P1 means a temperature probe reading is out of range, I believe it refers to the temp. probe in the sump inside the dishwasher. There are also P2 and P3 which refer to the booster tank temp. probe and the rinse water temp. probe. Remove the lower front panel and make sure the connector going to the sump temp. probe (two small black wires) is connected well and the wires look OK. Replace the temp. probe and P1 should go away.
"DR" followed by "OP" means "Door Open". If this is displayed when the door is closed, you most likely need to replace the magnetic door switch. Open the door and remove two phillips head screws which are installed vertically, holding the control panel drawer closed. Then open the control panel drawer (sometimes it's kind of stuck,but not usually). The magnetic door switch (i.e. reed switch) is located on the right side of the drawer, held down by a small metal bracket. Of course it's possible your problem could be the magnet in the door itself, but most likely the door switch is the problem.
There is a magnetic switch underneath and behind the panel I think its at the front or side where the lid sits.this may be faulty but sometimes they can drop out of line,look up inside hood for other half of sensor this may have come loose 2 screws holding it in.
Call them back!
I assume that he sent you the parts for the new version door switch assembly or He used the wrong ML# when looking up the parts. The ML# is the material list they used for each version of the machine over the years. When they make changes to a machine, like updating the door switch, they issue whats called a TSB (technical service bulletin) to each technician and parts person. Nowadays I think its all computer based. and they dont issue the paper manuals that they used to issue. It was much easier to track way back when. not so much today though.
This is a bad sump temperature probe. The unit will function, but will not heat nor display the wash water temperature.
This is a very easy fix. Order Hobart part number 328994 from your nearest Hobart parts dept.
Turn off and drain the unit. Kill the power to the unit at the circuit breaker. Remove the lower front cover. Locate the screw-in temperature probe at the front of the sump. Unplug the sensor from the wiring harness, remove with a 7/16" open end wrench. Screw in the new probe, using teflon tape of the threads, snuggly. It does not need to be super tight. Plug it into the harness, reinstall the front cover, turn the breaker back on, and start up the unit.
TURN THE BREAKER OFF AS EVEN WITH THE UNIT "OFF" THERE WILL BE 120 VOLTS PRESENT AT THE SUMP HEATER (yellow wires) DUE TO ONLY ONE LEG OF POWER BEING SWITCHED OFF!
Does this happen all the time?Is the door closed and are they bent?If you stand in front of the unit on the right door up top is there a grey looking capsule (door magnet) is it loose?Next to it should be another capsule which has a switch inside.I would make sure these 2 capsules are tight.Let me know.I'm a hobart tech.
I'm a hobart tech and repair these units often.I can tell you this---If you open up the control panel and see water the wash tank has a crack in it.If this is the case depending on the serial number you may be able to get a new dishwasher.What happens is the water gets onto the electronics and shorts out.What is the exact serial number,model number and ml number?How old is it and where are you located?Have you had any repairs done by hobart or any other service company?
E2 on screen means the lid is not closing properly and thus not activating the (hidden) switch that prevents the machine from spinning while the lid is up.
The lid switch in this model is not a direct contact switch between lid and switch , but it switches on and off due to a MAGNET embedded in the lid on the left hand side near the front. You will see a small indentation where the magnet SHOULD BE. My magnet had fallen off, so the lid could not activate the operation switch. I had lost the original magnet( about 1cm X 2cm) so glued another into place.
Machine is now fully operational again, and the job cost .78c.
If your magnet is still in place, the E2 fault could lay with the switch itself , which is fixed to the underside of the top casing of the machine near the front right hand side of the lid cavity. The switch measures 1cm X 3cm heavily black tape insulated. Access is gained by popping the 2 X2cm discs at front top of machine and releasing the 2 small philips screws here and a further 2 at the back top of machine. This operation of replacing the switch is best left to an electrician or washing machine specialist.