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Re: Am model Hobart dishwasher
Yes. Most of the AM models have a magnet on the RH door, and a corrospnding reed switch on the jam. Sometimes the magnet fractures in the casing and weakens its strength. Otherwise it is likely the reed switch.
On the more recent AMs, it you open the control box and there is a green board on the inside of the door. There will be an LED to show when the door is closed. Look towards the bottom right of the board.
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there is a door switch (reed switch) located inside (I believe) the top right side of the unit and there is a magnet in the same place on the door that triggers the switch. If it isn't adjusted right it wont sense the doors are closed. Odd that both would be doing the same thing. Here are the parts diagrams. Reed switch part number 00-473109 http://www.hobart.co.kr/data_file/LXi.pdf
there is a magnet controlled switch in the top cover lid and the probable cause the magnet is missing.
The best alternative is just keep a good magnet on the top of lid & slowly move the magnet horizontally.At one point the BEEP stops & machine starts to function.
There is a magnetic switch underneath and behind the panel I think its at the front or side where the lid sits.this may be faulty but sometimes they can drop out of line,look up inside hood for other half of sensor this may have come loose 2 screws holding it in.
It sounds like the lid switch is not making contact. It is a magnet located on the lid so that when you close the lid, the magnet pulls the switch closed. Make sure the magnet is still on the lid. If you washer lid will not stay open on most models, the magnet is gone because this is the same magnet that pulls the lid switch closed. If you can find where it goes, find a strong magnet and place it on the top inside rim where the lid goes when closed. Turn the machine on, let fill with water. Once this is complete and the machine should start. Take the magnet and move it around the rim until the unit starts running. If you can't get it to run, most likely the switch it's self is bad. I think you will find the magnet on the lid is gone and the machine will start running once you pass a magnet over the place where it goes. If so you will need to replace the part.
This is a bad sump temperature probe. The unit will function, but will not heat nor display the wash water temperature.
This is a very easy fix. Order Hobart part number 328994 from your nearest Hobart parts dept.
Turn off and drain the unit. Kill the power to the unit at the circuit breaker. Remove the lower front cover. Locate the screw-in temperature probe at the front of the sump. Unplug the sensor from the wiring harness, remove with a 7/16" open end wrench. Screw in the new probe, using teflon tape of the threads, snuggly. It does not need to be super tight. Plug it into the harness, reinstall the front cover, turn the breaker back on, and start up the unit.
TURN THE BREAKER OFF AS EVEN WITH THE UNIT "OFF" THERE WILL BE 120 VOLTS PRESENT AT THE SUMP HEATER (yellow wires) DUE TO ONLY ONE LEG OF POWER BEING SWITCHED OFF!
Does this happen all the time?Is the door closed and are they bent?If you stand in front of the unit on the right door up top is there a grey looking capsule (door magnet) is it loose?Next to it should be another capsule which has a switch inside.I would make sure these 2 capsules are tight.Let me know.I'm a hobart tech.
E2 on screen means the lid is not closing properly and thus not activating the (hidden) switch that prevents the machine from spinning while the lid is up.
The lid switch in this model is not a direct contact switch between lid and switch , but it switches on and off due to a MAGNET embedded in the lid on the left hand side near the front. You will see a small indentation where the magnet SHOULD BE. My magnet had fallen off, so the lid could not activate the operation switch. I had lost the original magnet( about 1cm X 2cm) so glued another into place.
Machine is now fully operational again, and the job cost .78c.
If your magnet is still in place, the E2 fault could lay with the switch itself , which is fixed to the underside of the top casing of the machine near the front right hand side of the lid cavity. The switch measures 1cm X 3cm heavily black tape insulated. Access is gained by popping the 2 X2cm discs at front top of machine and releasing the 2 small philips screws here and a further 2 at the back top of machine. This operation of replacing the switch is best left to an electrician or washing machine specialist.
the magnet is in the front gaurd. I suspect you have it taped on the back. looked behind the gaurd and you will see a small nut with a threaded stud looking thing in the neck of the mixer this is a electricl switch the magnet works. maybe your magnet is not ligned up on it or the switch is bad and you need a new one. the head is held on with 4 bolts onder the head is the switch and another switch for the bowl lift. . Best solution is have your front gaurd on and sliding corretly get a new magnet for it and it will lign up. If I cam and fixed it only way I would is with gaurd magnet. Can you tell I am factory trained and been drilled by Hobart lawyers many times. LOL never bypass a Saftey
One thing if mixer does not run at all it could be many things On/oof switch, Timer, bowl lift shwitch. Gaurd switch, realy that runse it in gaurd models. so be to be sure you need me LOL kidding. Good liuck
Kevin, the switch is magnetic operation. You will have to remove the top to get at it. Do this by removing the back panel. Inside the panel on the left side will be 4 harnesses. Disconnect them. Remove the pressure switch hose from the tub. Remove the ground wire. In back on each side of the top panel there will be 2 phillip screws, remove them. Now lift the top from behind and slide foward. The whole top comes off. The lid switch will be on the underside just in front of the dispensor. You can test the sensor by using a magnet. Just open the lid and place a magnet just in front of the dispensor on the left side. The washer should work with the lid up. Catriver