I've knocked the start button off my 1210's..brass shaft has dropped..HELP !
Hi..Ive knocked the top black plastic bit off the start stop knob on my decks...1st time in 20yrs so about time i did some damage. Inside, I can see the brass post that i assume was holding the plastic lid on, has dropped into its shaft...any help on fixing would be much appreciated :-)
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Re: I've knocked the start button off my 1210's..brass...
No easy way to fix this. You can do this one of two ways:
1) The correct way You'll have to open up your turntable, and this means going in from the bottom. Instructions for opening your turntable are located HERE. Once your inside, you'll see the area where you need to be working. You'll need to order a new On/Off switch, which can be found HERE. Just put back on the way you took off the old one, and that's pretty much it. There is a small spring and a small metal ball bearing you have to be careful you don't lose when removing the old power knob shaft. This is held down by a cir-clip on a white plastic piece. You have to remove this piece in order to swap out the old brass shaft with the new shaft/knob.
2) The incorrect way - but easy to do. Try and grab the brass shaft with a pair of needle nose pliers or similar. Grab your broken On/Off knob and put some crazy glue on the inside where the shaft aligns. Carefully place the knob on the shaft, and hold in place. This will be somewhat tricky, but you'll figure out a way. You might have to flip your turntable upside down in order to get the shaft to stick out. Just make sure if you do flip the turntable upside down, that you don't rest your turntable on your tonearm - otherwise you'll have an even bigger issue.
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Remove the knob, the one you hold in while it is lighting then hold it in with your finger or the back of a screwdriver on the end of the brass shaft, if it clicks and works it means you need to replace the plastic knob or put some sort of packing in the hole to make it press the brass shaft in further.
there should be a 17mm brass nut behind the knob. loosen it and tighten the black plastic nut outside by hand until the knob will stay out on it's own. do not lubricate the shaft and do not over tighten by hand. then re tighten the 17mm brass nut that holds the cable to the motorcycle.
The cycle selector is not engaged onto the timer shaft. Need to remove the on/off knob by removing the plastic "U" clip. Remove the cycle selctor knob and check that the steel spring clip on the selector is fully seated. Re-install the cycle selector onto the timer shaft aligning the selector key with the with tthe notch on the timer shaft. Re-install the on/off knob.
The cycle selector and on/off combination is a poor design. Users press the on/off knob in and turn clockwise to set the wash cycle. If you're not gentle this action wears the teeth on the timer shaft and the user has to press harder and harder to set the wash cycle. This pressing causes the cycle selector to be pushed off the timer shaft and you can no longer operate the machine.
Stop using the on/off knob to set the wash cycle. Press on the cycle selector to set the wash cycle. Use the on/off knob only for starting or stopping the machine. Don't press or pull too hard on the on/off knob or you will wind up pushing the cycle selector off the timer shaft.
The plastic shaft on the knobs split and loosen. I have the solution for that, but I need one metal insert that goes over the gas valve shaft and into the knob. For those that have the split knobs. This a bit of work but it works great. Remove the two screws from the back of each knob. Go to a hardware store and find the thin brass tubing that most have. Pick the tube that just about fits over the plastic shaft. It will fit over the tip but will not slide down the shaft all the way. Now pick a brass washer that the tube almost fits into. (You have to do a bit of tooling on both the washer and the plastic shafts. What you will end up with is a brass tube soldered to the washer that fits over the plastic shaft and is screwed to the metal insert in the knob from the inside. First take the tube and file across the top of the tube to make teeth. Now slide the cutter tube down each shaft while rotating it. This cuts the shaft to exactley fit the tube. Drill the washer to also exactly fit tube and cut or file the washer to fit into the knob at the bottom of the shaft. Cut the tubes to length, press fit them into each washer (this should be very tight and solder each washer to the tubes. Place the soldered unit on to the plastic shaft of the knob. Drill two number 4/40 size screw holes into the washer. One on each side of the shaft. Just start the drill into the metal insert. Do not drill through now. Remove the metal insert. (take a small screw driver and put it into the space on either side of the metal part of the knob. Not between the metal and the plastic knob though. that may break the plastic. The metal insert comes out fairly easy. Once it is out finish drilling the holes with a 4/40 tap drill. Tap the drilled hole with a 4/40 tap to make threads. Screw the tube and washer assembly to the metal insert. The screws should be flush with the back of the metal insert. Place the metal insert back in the knob. You now have a sleeved knob that will never break again. This is how it should have been made in the first place. I did this in a few hours on a Sunday afternoon. The parts including the 4/40 drill and tape were about $13. It is not as hard as it reads. LG has a quality issue, but does not want to step up to it.
Hi,my 92 prado started making a knocking sound recently,we couldn't pin it down to one spot in the engine.
The knocking was constant at low revs and then disapeared.
Turned out to be the tourque converter knob had bust of and eventually destroyed the fly wheel and the transmission pump.
Definatley check under top cover and also drop off the sump to check for loose nuts etc.
hope this helps.
did you ever open the turntable. It sounds like the on/off switch is bad. Remove the platter and screws with a phillips screw driver and just make sure the connections are in place. make sure you disconnect the power first. let me know what happens afterwards.
The black steam knob is bonded to the shaft. The shaft/knob assembly is removed by rotating the spring keeper on the brass housing the shaft fits into by 90 degrees to allow the shaft to be pulled out once the knob is rotated enough to disengage its thread from the brass housing.
Once the cover over the boiler is removed you will see three thermostats mounted on top of the boiler.
The middle one has the reset button located between the two power connectors. Push it down and you will hear a metallic snap as it resets.
I now have a working La Pavoni Pisa Espresso Machine again and it was free to fix it!