My 20 farad boss capacitor lights up but dont display any volts even when i try to charge it and it suppose to..

These instructions apply to PFAFF 1475 CD. They may also work for other machines.
If you have some advanced electronic repair skills and tools, check the following:
For 220 Volts models - there is a fuse next to the power input, make sure it is good. There is no such a fuse for 120 Volts model.
If the fuse is Okay, you have to get access to the main circuit board by removing the bottom cover.
Check the primary on the transformer for 120 V AC (220 V AC respectively). Check the secondary side for 5 V AC (luminescent display), 9 V AC (turns to 5 V DC by rectifier, 4700 micro farads capacitor and a 5 V regulator STI L387A) and 28 V AC (turns to 35 V DC by rectifier and 2200 micro farads capacitor.
Pay attention to two soldered round fuses in series with the secondary 9 V and 28 V - both should be good. On the big capacitors you should have 9 V DC and 35 V DC.
Common symptoms for bad small 22 micro farads capacitors next to the some of the IC's - there are 5 of these: These capacitors are in parallel with 5 V DC.
## All of the LEDs light up but the display is blank
## All of the LEDs light up, the display is blank, and after a minute no LEDs at all
## No LEDs nor display.
Replace ALL five 22 micro farads capacitors using a good desoldering pump or desoldering station!.
Enjoy your resurrected PFAFF 1475 CD machine!!!
I just did this procedure on my aunt's one (Made in West Germany around 1990).

it's called a resistor

get a small led or something that runs on 12 volts. i use my 5 dollar 12v test light and hold it to the positive cable thats gonna be hooked to my cap.
hook the other side to the cap, it will light up the test light and in a minute or two the light dims and then goes out, after its out , the cap is charged......JUST DONT LET IT TOUCH THE OPPOSITE WIRE WHEN YOU HOOK IT UP OR YOU DISCHARGE IT and its not funny

Hi.

Here the procedure:



Here the full extracts from manual in PDF:

1 cap 2r m

CAP8.18.30 manual

Your Ground wire has to be within 12 inches of the power cap. Also the power connection needs to be connected directly to you car battery. If this is correct and you still have problem your power cap could be bad. You can also connect a multimeter to the power and ground connections on the power cap and test DC power with the cap not connected to the car .You should get at least 12 volts DC on your multimeter. Hope this helps.

If you have a volt meter check the voltage to see if it's geting charge, if there is 14 to 20 volts the farad is working properly. You need to change the digital read out.

Yes you certainly wire the 12v+ wire directly to the positive post of the stiffening Capacitor, however if you have a one of those test light probes to check for current on a car? They are really cheap but what i do is clamp the one end on to the battery and than touch the probe to the + teriminal of your capacitor, when the light goes out your cap is fully charged. Now if the light does not go all the way out or stays on you have a bad capacitor, and might i ask why the hell are you driving to need a 35 Farad Capacitor anyway?? Damn.. We do show and competition cars here and sometimes use them. I like the BatCap way better, it's a Battery and a Capacitor all in one. Way strong like bull..... good luck... Mark

something in the order of 120 ohms. If you use a 1/4 watt size it will get extremely hot.

If the amp was hot, it probably has a serious problem. You should have it checked out by a qualified tech. Don't continue to use it. More serious damage could occur.

yes it will kill your batery u need aremote turn on man dont messa round with out one