I found that the thermocoupler to pilot light was loose in the little valve at the bottem that you push down to light the pilot, i replaced it as it looked old. light pilot and it is burning but when you turn the oven on no gas comes to the burner please help me im lost?
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To light those pitots remove oven floor& access panel below the doors,for each oven will be a gas valve inside of the panel below the doors and has a red button. push that red button,light pilot inside of oven near the main burner,hold red button for 30 seconds and releas.Pilot should be on,repeat for other oven. If pilots go out after red button was held down for 30 seconds the part called the thermocoupler will need to be replaced
Probably the safety valve. This unit broils and bakes off the same gas burner. A spark ignitor lights the pilot and this save gas because no standing pilot is needed. It takes a few minutes for the thermocouple bimetal combo to release the gas. When the temp gets to the desired rate then the bulb on the oven control closes off the flow of gas. To recap: The flow of gas comes from a regulator along a rail which supplys the gas to the top burners and the oven control. older models had pilot light tubing going down to the oven and to the top burners. This newer style uses a spark module to light off the top burners and the oven. So when yall turn the the oven on the spark ignitor lights the pilot first and then after the mercury bulf thermocouple heats up the bimetal inside the valve opens allowing gas to flow out to the pilot and ignite the gas burner. the temp rises and the mercury bulb oven control expands closing off the flow but not the gas safety valve. I would suspect the safety valve on this one.
I understand that you are having a problem with you American Range ARW36-6. The problem that you are having is that the oven pilot is burning, however, the oven burners will not light. This is a common problem that is caused by the thermocouple.
I understand that you state that the pilot is running. You should check to see if the pilot's flame is heating up the thermocouple. This should be a little cooper tube/wire that runs from the gas valve down to the pilot. If the flame from the pilot is not heating the thermocouple enough the gas valve will not receive the signal to turn on and the burners will not energize.
However, if the pilot is hitting the thermocouple then you will need to replace it. Most of the time you only need a screw driver and a small wrench to remove the thermocouple. You will want to remove it from the gas valve first then from the pilot. Make sure that you turn off the gas/pilot and allow the thermocouple to cool before you try and change it. Also make sure to line up the new thermocouple as not to cross thread the thermocouple and gas valve when reinstalling.
You can pick up a replacement thermocouple from any local hardware store they are not very expensive to purchase. Pay attention to the length as they come in many different lengths to accommodate many different gas appliances.
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If you are having problems with the oven, the first thing to do is figure out if you have apilot light system or a glow bar system. Problems with the pilot light system.....The flame has gone out, re-light the pilot. The pilot flame will not light - possible oven control is not sending gas for the pilot light. The pilot light works but no main burner ignition - possible pilot assembly is dirty and the pilot flame is too small, safety valve and thermocouple is faulty, the bulb from the safety valve is out of position and the pilot flame is not touching the thermocouple bulb. Some ranges use a standing pilot light ( small flame is on all the time ) while others use an spark ignition to light the pilot light flame and the pilot light flame heats up the thermocouple bulb to allow the main gas to flow through the oven burner. The flame needs to heat the bulb up enough to tell it to open the gas valve. Several things can go wrong here that keep this from happening: The pilot flame may not be hot enough, usually because the flame is yellow instead of pure blue or is too small. The cause for this is usually a dirty pilot assembly. The pilot assembly would either need to be cleaned or replaced.The thermocouple bulb may not be positioned properly in the flame. You can't heat the bulb properly if it's not in the pilot flame! The thermocouple bulb needs to be in the upper third of a pure blue pilot flame--that's the hottest part of the flame. The thermocouple itself may be burned out. It happens. It's a internal part of the gas valve so, no, you can't just change the thermocouple bulb separate from the gas valve. But when you turn on the oven or the thermostat calls for heat, the pilot flame gets bigger and jumps down so it can heat up the thermocouple bulb. This extra gas to increase the pilot flame size comes from the thermostat. If the pilot flame jumps upwards or just gets bigger, but doesn't shoot down, then you need to replace the pilot assembly.If the pilot flame size does not increase or jump down when turning on the oven thermostat, then the problem is the thermostat not sending enough gas to the pilot assembly. It's also possible that the pilot gas supply tube has a hole in it somewhere. One final point on the spark-assisted pilot ignition systems. The spark comes from the spark module--the same module that sends spark to your surface burners to light them up. If you're not getting a spark when you turn the oven on, then there are several possibilities: There could be a problem with the switch in the thermostat. You can confirm this by doing a simple continuity test of the thermostat contacts. If you don't read zero ohms when you turn the switch on, replace the thermostat.The spark module could be bad. You'll need to measure the voltage at the oven terminals of the spark module when you turn on the oven. If you get 120v but no spark, it's probably a bad spark module. Replace it. Could be a bad spark wire or broken electrode. Problems with the glow bar system.....You may even see the orange "glow plug" (called a hot surface igniter) glowing orange and so assume that it's OK. Not necessarily!! You have to measure the current/amp drawn by the igniter and compare it to this repair sheet before you can say it's OK or not. The gas valve has a bi-metal that open when a certain amount of current flows through it to heat it up. The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. As the igniter gets older or weaker, it's resistance increases to the point where not enough current is flowing to the gas valve bimetal to open it up. As a result, the gas valve never opens up. BTW, a common symptom of the early stages of this problem is erratic temperature control in the oven due to delayed firing of the bake burner while cooking. The hot surface igniter will not come on - check igniter with a ohm meter, you should have continuity through the glow bar, the glow bar can also crack = new igniter time. The glow bar comes on but the main burner will not light - you should have an amp probe to check properly, but often this is a hot surface igniter problem. The hot surface igniter often looses it's ability to get hot enough to open the gas safety valve. The safety valve can fail, but most times it is just a bad hot surface igniter. The hot surface igniter can also quit part way through cooking , in other words the oven may cycle a couple of times and then it just sits there with the red glow from the igniter. See this service sheet for the proper way and amp readings for the hot surface igniter system. Hot surface igniters do weaken and will eventually generate less heat than they normally could. When this happens they can still allow marginally correct current to flow to the oven gas valve for it to open but not get quite hot enough to ignite the gas burner immediately. When this happens, gas released into the oven can sometimes build up to the point where when finally ignited, the amount of gas lit can cause a small explosion inside the oven or cause an odor of gas with out the oven working. Yes, your glow bar igniter can glow orange-red and still be bad!! How a common gas valve works -click here. You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com This will help. Thanks please keep
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You could try a new thermocouple and/or cleaning the pilot assembly. The thermocouple is the tube that screws into the pilot safety valve and runs to the actual pilot and is heated by the pilot flame. If you change this part be sure not to over tighten the thermocouple into the safety valve as it can break. You should go finger tight plus a quarter turn. Also you should check to see if the pilot is solid, not weak. Thermocouples can be purchased from your local equipment service company, sometimes Home Depot has them for water heaters, be sure you get on with proper length. Hope this helps.
If your Wolf has pilot light, most cases dirty pilot light (flame looks yellow, normal flame looks blue), you have to disassemble the pilot light to clean it, thermocouple connection is loose, bad thermocouple or bad oven safety valve. you can try change the thermocouple first, if it did not solve the problem, then it will be bad oven safety valve. You can buy thermocouple thru Hardware store. Have fun.
the pilot light is there for 2 purposes. number 1 to light the burner and number 2 to heat up the thermocouple, thermocouple is a wire that the flame from pilot suppose to surround by fire. if the pilot is to low it will not reach the thermocouple. you can take the gas line that supplies gas to the pilot and clean it with a safety pin or a small needle. you can test the thermocouple by heating it up with a blow torch on low heat, get it red hot and then turned on the oven. if the oven works clean the pilot, if the oven do not work, replace the thermocouple if separate from safety valve. if thermocouple is part of it replace the safety valve.
The secondary pilot you speak of should envelope the end of the thermocouple. That heats up the fluid inside, which expands and forces fluid to open the oven gas valve. If the end of the thermocouple is enveloped in the flame, but you have no oven ignition, you will have to replace the oven valve. It is the part the temp knob is attached to and also has the thermocouple attached to it.