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I have a smooth top range, and the temperature indicator light for the right rear heating element stays on all the time. What could be the problem?

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  • aardvaark Apr 23, 2008

    I had the Whirlpool parts people check, and they didnt see anything but the heating element. Do you know what the proper name for the switch is, and where might it be located. Thanks.

  • tlhull70 Jun 19, 2008

    I have a Jenn-Air JES9800 Downdraft Electric range and the front right burner Heat Indicator light will not go off. The burner is cool. It's been on for 4 days now. Any advice?

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  • 121 Answers

Really..the switch is bad and need to be replaced.

Posted on Apr 22, 2008

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Are you talking about the oven temperature control? When turned on to the selected temperature the oven indicator will light and the element will work. When the oven reaches the desired temperature the power will shut off to the element and the indicator light will go out. When the oven cools slightly the indicator light and the element will again turn on. When it does turn off and you turn the knob slightly to increase the temperature the indicator light and element will come on again as you are asking it to heat to a higher temperature. This is normal oven operation.

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Hi, You will need to change the burner switch as well. It shorted out when the element went bad.
Please let me know if I can assist you with part # or anything else.

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I have a new ge range. When I turn on the left


mvek,
If you could see through the glass, you'd see "temperature sensors" located near the elements. They're very sensitive little guys, and rightly so! Their job is to detect temps and energize the warning light on the cooktop so users won't get burned.

To answer your question... It appears that there is an issue with the front left sensor (and possibly the right as well). The temp warning lamps should NEVER go off immediately. Please call for warranty repair (1-800-GE-CARES). This is an unsafe condition for you and your Family. The warning indicators are there for a reason and should indicate high temp's as long as high temp's are present.

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Perhaps the item you are using to check temperatures is not accurate. I my line of work, I use a digital thermometer which records immediate temperature. Perhaps understanding the process will help you see more accuracy in the way you read the temperature in your oven. Allow me to offer this explanation....First of all, place your thermometer near on the top rack as close to the oven temperature probe as possible. This probe is the focal point for your oven and detects the temperature and opens the electrical circuit to turn off the element when the desired set temperature is attained. Set your electric oven to 300 degrees and hopefully, you have a window in your oven to watch. The bake element will come on and the temperature will rise until it reaches 300 degrees. It is at this point when your oven bake indicator light should go out. When this happens....look inside. The element is still bright orange and emitting heat and will continue to raise the temperature in the oven to approximately 325 - 340 degrees. With this noted, you will see the temperature beginning to drop 315, 310, 300, 295, 290, 285 perhaps even 280 or some even lower to 275 and then the indicator lamp will go on indicating the circuit has closed thus turning on the element, Finally there is a variance and no range GAS or ELECTRIC will ever maintain a even 300 degree temperature. The calibration set point is based on the 300 degrees. If your oven light goes off within 20-25 degrees of three hundred degrees, your oven is already calibrated pretty close and I would not attempt to adjust it at all.

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1 Answer

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does the lindcator light remain on nall burners cold to touch?, or is the element actuall on low?? if just the hot surface indicatoris on and elelmnts are cold to touch you hae a bad element. if the elemnt wont shout off the problem is in the switch. i would ck with manufacture depending on age you may have a part warr for 5 yrs on the elemnt itself

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1 Answer

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similar problem after a power outage. Display would be blank until I turned ON an element (after which display would light, but no power to the respective element. No elements would heat even thought the dial shows power). Turning OFF the element would blank the display. I reseated the power cord and cycled the 50a basement breaker for 5 mins. Everything now works, but not sure for how long.

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The component that controls the hot surface light is part of the element. If there is a light for each element you just replace that element. If there's one for the whole surface or each side you'll have to figure out which element is causing the problem.

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