My electric stove oven light is coming on but it not gettin hot and when i put it on broil that part of the oven works please help mt girls wonts to bake their grandma a cake for her birthday b4 she gets home
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This problem is usually associated with a shorted relay on the control board. No...this is NOT normal and there's usually something seriously wrong if you have to unplug a range to turn off any of the features. You will need a new control board to correct the problem. If you want to remove the component leads that plug into the control board broil relay as a TEMPORARY fix while awaiting parts, it can be done, but you need to ensure its done correctly. Follow these steps:
1. UNPLUG the range and turn the appliance around so you can access the back panel.
2. Remove the back panel so you can view the control board and wires leading to the broil relay.
3. Disconnect the wires from the CONTROL BOARD and tuck them away where they will not be in contact with any heat source or electrical source.
This will render the broil function inoperative and takes the least amount of time. Since the broil element is working, I wouldn't recommend removing it. This will save you the time of possibly damaging it and/or having to reinstall it later.
NOTE: Some ranges use the broil element during the BAKE cycle to preheat the oven. If your range is designed this way, you may or may not have desired baking results.
The surface elements/burners work independently of the oven, so they should still function normally.
Replacements parts can be purchased from any of the following websites:
Prices vary between sites, so shop and compare. the first three sites listed also have helpful exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly identifying the parts you may need. Take the time to repair the appliance and do not leave it configured this way as a permanent solution. Some websites (Sears) will sometimes offer the refurbished control boards at a fraction of the price if a brand new one exceeds a price you're willing to spend.
If you have any questions, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER and let me know. I hope this helps you.
I take it this is an electric stove. The display and controller only are used for the oven operation. Check to make sure you have power coming in on all three contacts. If it's electric, it uses 1/2 of the 220 for the burners and the other for the controller. I assume you have already tried un-pluging it and plugging it back in. There should be a tech sheet in the back of the oven. If there is somebody that can read some simple voltage or has a meter make sure power is getting to the controll board. If it is, your controller is probably bad. Hope this helps.
Thanks for providing the full model number, which allows us to look up part numbers and see exploded views of your product.
Most likely the bake ignitor is bad (even if it still glows, it may not draw enough amperage to allow the gas safety valve to open). One way you can test this on your model is to swap out the broil ignitor for the bake ignitor, as they are the same part number on your model. (part number WB13T10045) The broiler is normally used much less than the oven, so the part does not fail very often on the broiler. You will have to take the cover off the floor of the oven, then the flame spreader, to reach the burner area. The ignitor is the rectangular part at the back, on the side of the burner. (only two wires to deal with) (By the way, for future reference, your model number ends is SS, as in stainless steel, not a 55)
I assume the oven has worked at one point? Does the broil still work?
This is my experience with my White-Westinghouse gas stove: The igniter bar is toast. There is 1 igniter bar each for the bake and broil (1 on top, 1 below). This is instead of a pilot light. Its an element that heats up to be hot enough to ignite the gas. If it doesn't get hot enough, the gas does not turn on and therefore not heat.
I went to my store and asked about this. "90+% of the time, that's the problem" So I bought a replacement and installed it myself. Problem fixed. Just had to undo a few screws to get at the bar, then connect the new one's wiring under the stove using marettes & some electrical tape, but the rest back together and that was it. I think the part cost me about $60-80 here in Winnipeg a few years ago. But it would've been at least that just for the guy to show up to look at the stove, never mind fixing it.
Sir, I think the top oelement is for broiling ONLY. It should not turn on when baking. The clicking may be the oven heating up.
How far apart were the oven temp instrument and the digital?
Don't expect them to match...they are inaccurate.
1. Heat water until it boils. Place digital therm in boiling water until it comes up to 212deg. If it is not at 212 in boiling water, record the error.(this gives a rough calibration to the digital)
2 Turn on oven, set to 350 deg, place digital therm on rack. Wait until oven reaches 350 (on stove) and read the digital. Note the difference between the two