Re: Toshiba TV 36AX60 power light blinks and no picture
I bought this model tv back in Feb. 2001. It had run perfectly (average 10 hrs. daily) up until August 2009; the red power light began flashing intermittently. A few weeks later, my picture began to distort, then go to normal, then distort again. The problems got worse and worse with the picture and I called the place where I bought it. The person that came out and looked at the tv said I should just junk it and buy a new one. I called the store to complain and another person came out, took the whole tv apart, and knew exactly what the problem was. He said the tube was fine, but there were at least 20+ solder joints that were bad as a result of heat and normal usage. The joints were repaired right in my living room, the tv was reassembled, and the tv is running perfect for now. I will keep everyone posted as to how things go in the future. Total cost for them coming out and doing the repair was $250. Hope this helps someone.
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Seven blinkings of stanbylight in Sony sets denotes a High-Voltage shutown problem. Not means the high line voltage, but the fault inside the tv itself. You haven't mentioned about the model number of your TV, yet I'm going to describe you considering this as a standard Sony problem.
The fault is mainly due to the internal power supply regulator section in your TV. It is now supplying voltage more than normal that it is meant for, as a result the EHT [Extra High Tension] voltage to the final anode of the picture tube goes higher than normal, and the microcomputer Ic inside your Tv detects this voltage difference and giving you the fault symptom in 7 continous blinks. That Ic is so programmed such, it will blink with certain times according to the fault comes inside, and helps us to locate the faulty section without opening the TV.
As I said above the fault in your TV lies on the power regulation section. You just open your TV and locate that section, which can be easly located as the main power just goes to that portion, and there will be a regulator normally Sony uses STR***** type IC regulators, which will be screwed onto a metal heatsink to radiate heat from it while it works. These will heat up to 80 degree C, while working, and the heat generated by this ic can cause loose solderings on its legs. You resolder its leg solderings, and suspected solderings around it, by applying a little more solder. In most cases this will resolve the problem. Ok.
Hi, on most of the CRT(glass picture tube) TV the common failure area is the deflection or power supply board(s). If you're TV is a 32AF42(what shows in your post)there is a remanufactured board available at partstore.com. I suggest you take a quick check at the deflection board in the TV set and try to determine if this is the board to replace, horizontal output transistor, flyback or horizontal out transformer, power supply regulator are some of the components to check. good luck!
Read below and decide if you want to tackle the problem yourself if so I’ll help along the way with what info I have. If not contact the nearest repair shop armed with the info below. A dead set (no picture no sound) can indicate any number of problems – Usually the set is in shutdown or protection mode – this means that the internal circuits have detected a problem with a supply voltage missing, drawing too much current, going over voltage or a short condition. The first thing to do is power off the set unplug it for 5min. than replug and try again. This in effect resets the main micro and will sometime unlatch a fault and resume working. There are certain common problems based on the make model – for instance convergence output IC’s(CRT projection TV’s) can cause a dead set symptom in many models. Vertical output IC failure can also cause the same symptom (CRT standard and Projection). The only way to determine the real cause is : By an educated guess based on experience or by directly troubleshooting the set – checking fuses, measuring voltages and checking for shorts. Many of the intermittent problems such as, int.(Intermittent) no sound orpicture, int. picture shrunken or misshaped. These problems are generally due to cold (bad) solder joints (all TV’s and electronics) that break down under slight temperature changes or vibration and are usually verified by physically tapping the suspected area on the circuit board, or by quickly heating or cooling a suspected component or area ( cold spray and hot air gun). The other main culprit is leaky or dried out capacitors or capacitors that change value depending on temperature. These can sometimes be seen as bulged or leaky and have an acrid odour.
Your set has cracked solder joints, most likely on one of the small regulator transistors on the main board, with its own little heat sink. I have seen that many, many times, and it is a very simple thing to correct. Loose solder joints on the vertical output IC can cause no picture too, but it is usually those regulators that cause the problem. The set needs to have those regulators, the vertical output IC and all other major components resoldered and the set will play fine. If you do not have experience resoldering small parts on PC boards, allow a qualified tech to handle it for you.
I would start with C869 a 2.2 Uf at 200 Vdc in the power supply. I have replaced a fair share of those in these sets. Of course the first thing to check would be the pico fuse in the power supply regulation circuits F860 a 4 Amp Pico Fuse and if it is blown, you will have to replace Q801 the Regulator IC Str-Z4214 Part # 23906369. If you're not that good at soldering and measuring capacitance and resistance, this would be a job for a more experienced tech.