Question about KitchenAid Ovens

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Model KGRT607HWH6. Not only has oven stopped lighting but broiler doesn't and the two front burners don't so it isn't an igniter problem unless all of them went at once. Other possibilities?

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  • jachern Jul 22, 2010

    The original solution didn't take into account that it is the oven, the broiler, and two of the burners not coming on (and it's a gas oven all the way, no dual fuel or anything like that). I don't think everything would individually die on its own at the same time. Both broiler and oven igniters do glow but glow orange (I'm told they should glow white). The strangest thing is that the back burners do still work. And I know gas is getting in because you can smell it when you turn it on and it doesn't ignite.

  • jachern Jul 22, 2010

    OK. Maybe the igniters on the burners need cleaning but what about the oven not working and the broiler (which has its own igniter) not working either. And all of this started at the same time prior to which it all worked. Wouldn't that indicate a problem with something more system-wide?

  • jachern Jul 22, 2010

    See my comments in reply to the second solution if you can

  • jachern Jul 22, 2010

    The idea of checking the terminal contacts is good but since this is a gas oven the rest of the last answer didn't seem germane. Since burners light and clock and other displays work, seems to have electricity to it. But the electronics do seem to be working oddly--oven light sometimes doesn't come on when it should and stays on when it shouldn't.

  • jachern Jul 23, 2010

    While it didn't completely solve the mystery, it gave me some good places to look and some things to try and I felt this responder looked at the problem rather than just giving a canned answer.

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Gas is not totally clean; contaminants can and, do; get through the gas lines
causing a blockage; you have a blockage in the gas line before the two front burners and the oven gas valve... to repair:
remove power; turn off the range's main (wall) gas valve; remove the grates and, anything on the range top; lift the range top; once you do this note that the gas lines go from the burners back to a gas line divider that also feeds your oven gas valve,
remove the line that feeds gas before the oven valve to the two front burners.
use compressed air to blow the obstruction out of the clogged gas line and, reinstall the gas line; tighten all gas line nuts; open the wall gas valve; and, leak test using a spray bottle of 50 / 50 dishwashing liquid soap and, water: if you see a bubble you have a gas leak.
after you are sure you have no leaks repower the range.

Posted on Jul 22, 2010

  • jachern Jul 22, 2010

    That's the most cogent answer so far but I did get the burners working again--all four of them--so I'm back to thinking electrical?

  • Jim Goldsmith
    Jim Goldsmith Jul 22, 2010

    very good! now, check the oven gas valve for power; turn off the wall gas when you do this; using a multimeter the oven gas valve looks like a a small bathtub with a gas line going to it and, two wires attached to it; read the voltage on the two wires it is located at the broiler flame tube (burner) by the way the ignitor need not burn white, yellow is fine to ignite gas.

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  • Master
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Hello,

It's always a good idea to remove the back and check for burnt/loose wires or terminals when these sort of thing occur. Look especially at the element mountings and the wires from there to the control console. Also the main block where incoming cord is attached.

Done. Replaced the element and thermostat tonight and all is well. I did pull the controller panel off and re-seated the connectors running to the elements and sensors
Also notes that,

Broiler problems can also affect gas ovens but this troubleshooting guide is only designed for electric ovens. Gas ovens are very different and you should not attempt to follow the same guide.
Reseating the Element
The broiler is heated using an electric element which should be clipped in to the top of the broiler enclosure. If this has come loose then it might not be making contact with the necessary terminals. Try to reseat the terminal but before doing so you must ensure that the electricity is turned off.
Testing the Element
The element is what heats up and cooks the food in the broiler. Over time the heat can damage the broiler element. These elements are supported by stand-offs and if the element burns out or becomes damaged then this can be a common reason why the broiler isn't working.
The easiest way to test whether this is working is to turn the broiler on and look at the element. If it is working correctly then the element should be glowing red.
Another slightly more complicated test for the broiler element is to remove the element from the oven and disconnect it. Then use a multimeter to check the continuity of the element. Set the multi-meter to measure resistance and then put it either side of the element. The normal measurement should be between 20 and 40 ohms. If the element is infinitely resistant then this means it's broken and will need to be replaced.
Testing Oven Controls
Another reason why the broiler will fail to work is because of problems with the oven controls. A thermostat is used to set the temperature of the broiler, and the oven selector controls are used to control the setting of the broiler.
Turn the oven controls on to see whether the broiler is working properly. If not the controls can be removed and tested using a multimeter. Check the outputs to ensure that the controls are working correctly.
These can also be replaced if required by fitting a replacement part designed specifically for your oven.

Good luck and hope this helpout......

Posted on Jul 22, 2010

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  • Master
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Check the side areas of each burner for small pinholes. These holes bring the gas flow and flame from the pilot into the burner.
VERY often these holes clog with use from grease, etc. Open them up with a small strand of wire or a similar probe.
If in doubt, examine carefuly the burners that work versus the ones that don't. You will see the open pin holes on the sides of the working burners.
There should also be a pilot tube in the proper position from the
pilot flame to each burner. Makes sure that the tubes aren't clogged at the non-working burners.---------
check out.thanks.

Posted on Jul 22, 2010

  • jachern Jul 22, 2010

    Unfortunately, this still doesn't address the nonworking oven and broiler. When you turn either of them on, there's a pause before it gives the "start?" message. Then when you hit start, it looks like it's going to work: the temp shows "lo" and the igniter does start to glow orange. Then--nothing happens. If you don't turn it off, you start to notice a gas smell, so there is gas coming in, the igniter is working, but...I still think there is some connection between these disparate symptoms. I can't believe it's coincidence that the burners, oven and broiler would all develop problems independently at the same time. Are there any internal fuses or circuits that could be causing this?

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  • Master
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Hello,

Usually, when an oven won't broil, it's because the broiler element is burned out. The broiler element in an electric oven is the black, pencil-thick tube at the top of the oven. When the broiler is on, the element glows red. This element has an expected life-span of several years. It may last for only one; it may last for many more. When the element burns out, you need to replace it.

Also, if
heating elements eventually burn out. Sometimes, when an element burns out, you can see that the coil burns in two, or blisters and bubbles. When your heating element burns out, you have to replace it because they are not repairable. If, when the heating element burns out, the infinite switch that controls it also fails, you have to replace it too, but since you said the it is not igniters problem, you will need to replace the two item above to get your oven working.

Take care.

Posted on Jul 22, 2010

  • Jimoh Adeleke Muyideen Jul 22, 2010

    Hello,

    Clean the ignition system, it might be clog with dirt, to get at the ignition system, lift the lid of your stove.
    Give it a rap with the heel of your hand if it's stuck. If your stove
    has sealed burners, identified by the igniter or little nub at the back
    of each burner, the lid won't lift. Clean the igniter . If your burner
    still doesn't ignite. Identify a standing pilot by a
    small gas tube running to a tip with a hole at the center of two
    burners. If the pilot (flame) is burning.
    Identify spark ignition (igniter) by the ceramic nub either under the
    top or beside the burner in a sealed burner range. It clicks
    when it's working. Clean the burner assembly the same way for both spark ignition stoves
    and standing pilots. You'll need a small diameter brush. Set the assembly in place and try your burners.see if it solve the problem.

    Take care.


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