Question about Whirlpool Dishwashers

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Dishwasher tripping switch in main circuit board.Can hear slight PUFF when this happens. Component that mains is connected to already replaced and seemed to work for a few days. Wondering if it could be related to moisture getting into electrics?

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  • Whirlpool Master
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This is a very dangerous situation you MUST remove from the wall supply and desist from using, such a fault could easily make the casing "Live" and anyone touching it may be killed. You need to discover why this is happening.
Either get you service manual, for your make and model. Perform the troubleshooting steps to isolate.
Or contact a reputable service center and ask for a "Quote" for the repair.

Posted on Jul 22, 2010

Testimonial: "Thanks for advice. Machine now completely off and waiting for the experts. "

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Back - light problem. Check and replace damaged component/s at its back-light inverter board, or replace this board as card basis. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Surf the site with patience. Pull up older posts. It will be best to replace the inverter board as card basis.....
http://electro-medical.blogspot.com/
To some model sets; especially LED back-lighted types; the back-light inverter circuit will be part of the main power supply board [SMPS]. In such cases, the power supply board might need replacement. To some models sets, the back-light inverter and SMPS section circuit will be integrated at its main board itself. If so; the main board should be replaced. To some models of sets, all these section circuit will be integrated at its main board. If this is the case, you have to replace the main board.

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Hello. Critical question--is the dishwasher on that GFCI circuit!? If so, (A) you might have voided any warranty and (B) you should NEVER have appliances with digital boards on a GFCI circuit. Why? Because the method GFCI breakers and outlets use to keep us safe(how they reference current to ground) can blow out the electronic control boards plugged in to the circuit they monitor. I am ALWAYS telling my customers to immediately switch out an outlet or breaker which is protecting a washer, dishwasher, or microwave. I know that electrical codes often mandate that a GFCI device be within 3 feet of a water source but the design engineers didn't think about that one...It often is buried in the users manual to NOT connect the device to a GFCI.
Now, after all that, I need the model number of your unit to help you most accurately--some dishwashers have a main fuse on or near the main control board. If this fuse opens, voila! The unit is D-E-A-D until you replace the fuse. However, if there isn't a fuse, you've got a blown main board(and possibly user control panel, too). Power slams like the one you experienced are notorious for damaging control boards. That's why power outages are so destructive--they either blow out boards immediately or cause them to fail in about 3-4 weeks afterwards due to the damaged chips on the board starting to fail from over-current/voltage. I hope I helped you!

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Looks like the pump motor is drawing lot of current and tripping the circuit breaker. Need to check if there is any water inside it. Or simply the capacitor is leaky and causes motor to draw current.

See this part.
http://shop.onlineappliancespares.com.au/part/4681ea2002f-134640/43518

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The heating element(s) may have shorted.

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Kitchenaid Dishwasher trips the 60-amp main breaker but not 20-amp.


Its possible that there may be load on that circuit from other appliances. Had an issue myself with stove and laptop on same circuit.
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Why does my dishwasher trip our electric when we switch it on ?


There can be a possible short or an electrical leak- if ELCB is used- that seems to trip off the circuit. this can be a short in the main control panel which is the power section.
the ideal way to go about is to ISOLATE the circuit , so remove the control boarrd leads and check, then remove the outputs from the control board, check for leak from the board which will confirm the case.
Take precaution when checking with live circuit.

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It may be that your water pump is leaking on to the motor...

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If your dishwasher doesn't work at all, check these:

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Wiring
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Power from the house Is there power getting to the dishwasher? This can be difficult to test, because dishwashers are usually wired directly to an electrical circuit, rather than plugged into the wall. But at least check for a blown fuse or a tripped circuit breaker.

Door switch The door switch is important because, if it's defective, the dishwasher won't work at all. To reach it, you need to remove the control panel cover, or sometimes the interior liner of the door. If it's defective, you need to completely replace it.

Wiring Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dishwasher, burns and breaks the connection. If that's the problem, the wires must be repaired/replaced as necessary. If that's not the problem, check the wiring to the door switch, the wiring between the door and the lower part of the dishwasher, and the wiring to the timer. Repair any broken, burned, brittle, or defective wiring, using the proper appliance-grade wire and connectors.

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check the power filter board. it's the first component that the power cord encounters in the machine; before the main board.. should have 120volts in and 120volts out. there have been problems with the wiring harness between the main board and display board. these are both rare though. it's almost always a main circuit board failure. i don't think a new door switch will solve your problem.

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this happens because there is a shot circuit somewhere, now where to start plug in without switching on at the switch, if it trips then there is a mains filter thats shorting out, this is a small part just inside the case where the mains wire enters the cabinet / very common fault and very cheap to fix. otherwise check all individual parts one at a time, start with heater element, then pump, the motor, unplug to test, if it doesn't trip while unplugged the you have the right thing, replace part as needed need more detail really????? hope this helps as a start

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