Turned on, heard clicking, now keeps blowing GFI and won't work
I turned it off overnight while I was away. When I turned switch the following morning and left room, I heard clicking noises. I came back to the kitchen to hear GFI "fuse" blow. I tripped the switch, plugged it in, and turned it on again. It would light up for just a split second and blow the GFI again.
I love coffee ... (excessively strong)
((life is short... and I am old))... Not withstanding
my POT- FILLER... CHEMEX... smart-home daily
automatic brewing capability...
I have reverted to the camp-fire brewing method... BOILING water, removed from heat, IMMEDIATELY
gets a mega dose of freshly/finely ground PETE's
(never to see heat again it is COLD filtered through
a Melitta #6 and stored in the refrigerator...
Drained into a three quart carafe...
Grounds are immediately distributed to the redwoods...
When my sisty wants hot coffee... Microwave 90 seconds
(taste is ALWAYS AWESOME)...
Else the BOSS (she who must be obeyed) & I enjoy
our iced LATTE Coffees in the morning...
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Sounds like you heard the fuse blow-out.
Have you checked the fuses for the A/c units.?
The fact that the fuse went with a big pop though, may mean that there's an underlying problem in the A/c unit.
Check the fuse & replace it if necessary.
If it blows-out again, it'll need to go to a Chevvy dealer or specialist or an A/c specialist, to find the root cause of the problem.
Best of luck.
There may be a GFI plug there at the microwave, but it can get tripped by current leakage on other parts of the circuit. If there are other things plugged into the circuit (every outlet that's on the same panel breaker), it's possible any of them could be causing the tripping. Unplug anything else on the circuit, then plug things back in one by one to see if there's something that may make it pop.
The reset switch in a GFI plug is mechanical. If it's been tripped a few times, it may be worn or not fully reset. Electrical guides usually suggest testing / resetting GFI plugs monthly, both to make sure they work, and also to cycle the mechanical switch. If dust, toaster crumbs, or other stuff might have gotten into the mechanism, it might not be mechanically resetting properly. Try test/reset/test/reset a few times and see if any of the clicks start feeling more distinct.
The trip can be legit. Hopefully not the microwave, but if there is a short in the line somewhere, you really want to track it down before it causes a fire. In some cases, even heavy dust on/in outlets can cause pseudo-shorts with some current trickling to ground. GFI switches will usually trigger with less than 5 mA of current drop, so it doesn't take much. Blow out the receptacle with canned air.
The switch or it's connections may be bad. Unplug the microwave and (no cutting corners here), turn off the breaker to the plug. Undo the faceplate and mounting screws and pull the plug away from the wall. Check that the wire connections to the plug are tight, and that the wire nuts connecting the plug to the wall lines are also firm and tight. Tighten if necessary. If you're still getting trouble after trying this all, Consider replacing the outlet and seeing if that helps.
The fan and defrost heater are run off the same relay on the board. When on defrost, the fan stops. when the fan starts, the defrost heater is switched off, Sounds like the neutral to the board may be shorting. If you have the ability, try powering the evaporator fan from the compressor relay, disconnecting from the board entirely. To see if this will work, just take a temporary wire to the fan when disconnected and see if it trips while running.
i would install a regular outlet... and if the circuit breaker blows. then their is a direct short within the washer .i never heard of GFI being used on a washer ..remove it.. their may be other outlets on this circuit also that can adding to it tripping. like frig.. find out what is on that circuit by shutting off the breaker for washer see what else goes off...
First of all, an extension cord and GFI receptacle to run an AC unit will almost always blow either GFI or circuit breaker or both due to large current draw from AC unit. If an extension cord needs to be used, keep it as short as possible, and use the heavier gauge that is approved for AC use. What happens when you use an extension cord, is the voltage drop that will happen by the time the AC gets power. With any voltage drop, the amperage draw increases, so a 15 amp circuit breaker will most likely trip. Nowadays, all AC units are wired with a minimum 12 gauge wire rated for 20 amps. You say nothing is happening now, is that to say that the fan only mode doesn't work on the AC unit either?
yes thats is a common problem for all flat tv not only
sharp ;/ first theres is capacitor in power supply
you probly have few one there blow up and it could bee from the power section of your back light circuit
a good technician can fix that easy
Get some contact cleaner spray turn power off . And spray the knobs and the push buttons. Then keep pushing an turning the buttons an knobs .Let sit 30 min an blow them out with can air.Turn on see what happens. Some times you my have to do it 2 times. Are Spary and let sit overnight. Ford an Mercury's are bad to get moister in them. It worked for me a lot.
I am not familiar with your particular model, but if you just had it installed, I'd say that the outlet you are using to plug it in is on a GFI circuit (ground fault interrupt) You cannot use a cooktop with automatic re-ignition on a GFI circuit, as it will do exactly what you are describing. Easiest way to check this is to go to home depot and buy a little outlet tester that will tell you if your polarity is reversed in the outlet (another possible cause) or if it is a gfi or non gfi. The other thing you could try is unplugging the unit and plug it into an extension cord. Then take the cord and run it to a non gfi outlet in a hallway or anywhere but the kitchen or bathroom areas and see if it behaves itself then. Hope this helps!