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Re: How do u change from 110 to 220 volts. Do u just
There should be a wiring diagram label on the inside cover that tells you where to connect the leads for 220 volt operation. I assume you do not have the manual, so you can also call 1-800-332-3281 for Hobart assistance and a manual.
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It's unlikely. An internal fuse would blow first, I'm assuming. If you've diagnosed this far you sound capable of continuing. Electricity is dangerous!!! I would remove all things from the board, 1 by 1 plug each component into board until the breaker trips. That should pinpoint what is tripping breaker. I would assume a motor.
Without looking up the specifications for this heat pump, I cannot be certain, but I expect the operation to provide cooling may require more power than when heating. You probably can find the specifications online for this unit. As you probably know, power is measured in watts and is calculated by voltage times current. This also is likely to be 240 volts operation. If you take the specified power on cooling and divide by voltage (240), that will indicate the current in amperage that will be required to start it. Your circuit breaker is set for current and needs to be a higher current than is required. If that is the problem, you can buy circuit breakers at Home Depot or Lowes. You have to remove the front panel of your breaker box and snap out the circuit breaker. To be safe it would be good to turn off the main breaker switch before you open the front panel and remove the circuit breaker for the heat pump. Should your calculation of current required be less than the rating of the circuit breaker, that implies a malfunction of the heat pump in the cooling mode and would require a service call to the local representative of the heat pump manufacturer.
What was the voltage that you measured? Are the units 220 volt or 120 volt. Units that size are usually fed by 220 volts. What is the current rateing of the circuit breakers? Are they a double breaker with a handeling capacity of 20 amps or are they 15 amps.
You didn't mention if they ever worked? Are you feeding 120 volts or 220 volts to the two units?
(I have this model at my home). If you switch it over to emergency heat and nothing comes out then check the breakers behind the panel for the air handler (inside unit) There may be other issues, mine had a sequencer which had come apart. The newer sequencers have a retainer clip to prevent this. It is located under the galvanized cover inside the indoor unit next to the transformer.
Also check the breakers at the main panel (there should be two double breakers, one should be a 20 to 25 amp for the outside unit and the other should be around 70 amps for the indoor unit). Fully reset them after performing checks described later. . If your outdoor condensor compressor is failing (as mine did), it will trip the smaller breaker, if your indoor unit has a short or other problem it will trip either the 50 or the 70 amp breaker. Make sure you turn off all breakers before inspecting.
One last thought, if your thermostat has battery backup and the transformer has failed, you will still hear the click but nothing will operate since the 24 volt transformer operates both the indoor and outdoor units. It is located under the galvanized cover inside the indoor unit. (I would suspect this if all else appears normal with no breakers tripped). A universal transformer is around 8 to 12 dollars make sure to use the 240 volt wire and the COM when installing it. (there are several wires for various input voltages on the primary). they are available at any HVAC parts store. Power off to all sources before repairs.
No - the outside temperature will not shut the AC down.
You say the outlet has power? Does it have the needed 220 volts? Most of the time 220 volts is on one switch, (that operates both 110 volt legs of power at the same time). - but sometimes each leg is on a separate breaker and if "one leg" trips you will still have power at the outlet (110 volts) but you won't have the needed 220 volts. While this is not likely - it is possible - so I would want to test the outlet with a voltage tester and determine the voltage. You might try checking in your breaker box and seeing if another breaker (110volt) is tripped. The same thing applies if you are dealing with fuses instead of breakers - determine the voltage at the outlet - and if you don't have 220 and only have 110 then look for a blown fuse or as I said above - a breaker tripped.
If you do have 220 at the outlet and nothing is running - I would be looking for an inline fuse of some sort within in the unit. Many of the newer units have them and they are usually easy to spot and all you have to do is to unscrew the fuse holder and replace the blown fuse. Be sure to have the power off when handling fuses.
Note: Be aware that while breakers/fuses can trip and blow without a serious problem going on - they (blown fuses/tripped breakers) are usually a sign of something significantly wrong with the unit.
Stoves are wired for 220 volt, but the range top will operate on 110 volt so your Breaker should be a single 220 volt breaker but can be achieved using two 110 volt breakers if one of the breakers blow the range top may still operate but the oven will not. So my suggestion is to Check your breakers to see if you are operating on two 110 volt breakers and one is possibly tripped.
30 is the correct size breaker for this unit. It sounds like there is a grounding issue going on in the system. Or off of the Thermostat. Something is grounding out causing the switch to trip. Are you running #10 wire to breaker and the unit? If not you will need to increase your wire size