I bought a 1950's farberware perc coffee pot. Since it is not heating we think we might follow directions on bottom. remove plate, hook next hole in fuse wheel ..We can do this but...Also there is a small round ceramic? part that must have to do with heat or ? Is there still a directions manual with pictures to help us see if we can fix this beautiful pot. Perc # 206 Thank you, j lee

First, I'm NOT a Farberware technician, But if this is the table top purculating and dispenser urn then it's pretty much work the same way as most free standing coffee pots work. (think 1950-60's coffee pots were all the rage).
* Electrical problem when not heating up. Check outlet/breaker if tripped out - Reset. Check plug on both ends, make sure it does not have a burnt smell or charcoal crumbly texture - replace. Check the coffee socket end where the female side of cord goes in, is it black or burnt? - dump pot. If power and cord okay but still no heat then element bad, high limit bad, broken wire(s), - Either way your pot is too old or badly damaged - Dump pot!
* For die hards and cheapo's (like me) then you will need a continuity meter to check across the UNPLUGGED cord to see if the element, limit fuse, wires, are all working properly. Yes there may be a switch in the urn but most of these are just plugged in to turn on and removed (to dump old coffee and wash) from power. Really, unless you have salvaged spare parts around,your better off just getting another brewer. Chances are if it's out of warranty then the urn is probably starting to rust and corrode. The element will be hard to remove and may leak when replaced as the seal(s) have to be replaced to. Count yourself lucky if it's the thermal fuse. The switch (if any) may be a simple rocker type or an illuminated push on push off type that will be harder to find and replace. The neon ready lamp (if any) are pretty standard and generics are common. (but a bad neon does not stop the pot from brewing) Thermal switches are a bit tougher to locate and replace as it needs to be set or preset to the right brew temperature.
* Final note; Worth the time to repair? Probably not. Don't let the boss catch you fixing it. (he probably borrowed it or got it free from the coffee vendor.) Good luck!
Aloha, ukeboy57

If it will not perk or even get warm, the main heating element (usually in the middle of the pot) is probably bad. Get an ohm meter and read the resistance directly at the pot terminals (looking into the pot) (before taking the pot apart). If you get a infinite reading (or in the thousands of ohms), the perk heating element is probably bad. On my small pot, that element appears not to be replaceable...but pull the base off and see.

If you pull the base off, you will likely see three components; main perk heating element in the middle of the pot, "keep warm" element - may be covered in braid) skirting the edge of the pot, and finally the thermostat that allows the pot to perk for 7 minutes then opening up the circuit to allow current to both of those elements in series just to keep it warm.

Although I don't have a pot exactly like yours, in my smaller pot, the "keep warm" element (covered in braid) and the thermostat (little button pressed by a spring and screw against the bottom of the pot to sense temperature) can be replaced...go to Goodmans.net.

There is a nut on the inside of the pot that can be removed with a socket wrench. You will also need to remove the bottom of the pot to access the heating element. Remove the wire leads and it should come off.

There is a thermostat in the bottom of the percolator that is broken. It would normally cut in to perc the coffee and then cut off the percolator heating element after the water reaches a certain temperature. It can be replaced but it takes a little skill. There is a video on eBay.

If you want to bypass the thermostat and just unplug the percolator, time it for 1 minute per cup.

Farberware manuals do not seem to be available online. Try contacting Farberware Customer Service at the following site:






http://www.farberware.com/customerservice.html?hm=Y&ct=N&anw=N






For electric kettles try the e-mail address for Electric Appliances. Send your model number with your request for a manual.






Sorry some one was not able to respond within 20 minutes but I think this had to do with lack of a ready source for the directions for use.



Thank you for using FixYa!

Farberware manuals do not seem to be available online. Try contacting Farberware Customer Service at the following site:



http://www.farberware.com/customerservice.html?hm=Y&ct=N&anw=N



For coffee urns try the e-mail address for Electric appliances. Send your model number with your request for a manual.



Thank you for using FixYa!

Hi, If you have a Farberware, Just look into the bottom of the pot. There you will see what looks like a hole in the pot. That is the high heating element, under the pot, when you go to make coffee the pump ( rod) sits into the hole. When you turn it on to make coffee the high heating element that the pump is in gets very hot and starts pushing the water that is in the hole to the top (that is called perking) the hot water goes over the the top and the drops into the coffee, This keeps going on until the thermostat feels it has reached 190 degrees or close to it and turns the high element off. While this is running it's cycle the keep warn is on helping the water to get hot, when the main element is off the keep warm element that runs around the bottom of the pot stays on all the time the pot is plugged in. Should the coffee get to cold the thermostat will turn the main heating element back on until it is back to 190. This system was developed by Farberware and a lot of makers copied it, But Farberware sold the pots and was known for a FAST and HOT cup of coffee. Farberware started making them in China and the pots are having a hard time keeping it up to American standers, and parts are very scarce.Farberware USA pots have been around a long,long time and are still going strong . I hope this helped you to understand how the pot works.

I have the same urn and had the same problem.

There are 3 common causes of lost perk that can be dealt with at home, and cause about 1/2 of the failures with these urns. They are very common when the pots are used rarely or carelessly cleaned after use, and when coffee is ground too fine for perc (drip grind is too fine for perc). As long as the pot is still heating, check these three things:
1) Clean the _inside_ of the hollow stem )that holds the basket and moves the water from the bottom of the pot to the top), to remove all grounds. You should be able to see clearly through it.
2) At the bottom of this stem there is a very small cup that has little holes in it and fits into the little well at the bottom of the pot. Make sure these are completely clear.
3) Scour out the little well so all residue/ grounds are removed and the little cup fits perfectly into the well.

It is the perfect fit of the two that allows the perc-ing cycle to occur.

If the pot is not heating, or these cleaning measures do not work, a local electric repair shop can probably do the repair for about 1/2 the cost of a new urn.

Make sure you are using the type of commercial coffee pot like the one in the picture. They don't have to have to be plastic with the metal bottom, they can be all glass. The commercial pots are heavy duty and usually disperse the heat well.

If you are using commercial pots the only solution without replacing the warmers is to put three pennies on the warmer and to put the pot on top of them. The pennies will get hot so don't forget and grab them but the pennies help to move the pot just a little way away from the direct heat.

Hi, I just posted this for the FCP412 model: here it goes again.
I've had the same problem, I went with a percolator since our water is hard and we calcify the heating element within about a year. Having the FCP-412 stop working has made me angry as well.
1st, I placed an order for a P04-303 thermostat. It seems to be the correct replacement but we'll see. You can find it here: http://www.goodmans.net/get_item_fa-p04-303_farberware-p04-303-thermostat-for-coffemaker-urn.htm

2nd, here is my 1 cent fix. Really, insert a penny under the thermostat. The delay that it takes to additionally heat the penny will increase the duration that the 1000 Watt element is on. You can experiment with other materials just make sure it isn't flammable (it's next to the element) and it is not too insulate (you want the thermostat to open the circuit some time after the start of the heating cycle (3-3:30 minutes).
Good luck. -david