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GE Spacemaker  Microwave Oven

Ge spacemaker microwave (by 6 users)

posted by miller55069 on Apr 22, 2008


i have a ge spacemaker microwave it just quite no power to it at all checked elec out let checked ok checked fuse in microwave and replaced still no power checked door latches with omm meter they are all good put in new control board and still does not work can you help

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5 Other Users Have The Same Problem

Comment by Guest, posted on May 05, 2008

electric outlet has power microwave acts like not getting electricy

Comment by Guest, posted on Apr 30, 2008

NO POWER TO THE MICROWAVE, HAVE UNPLUGGED AND REPLUGGED IT BACK IN. IS THERE A RESET BUTTON? HAVE CHECKED THE FUSES ALL OK. THERE IS POWER TO THE OUTLET.
DO I NEED TO BUY A NEW ONE???

Comment by Guest, posted on Apr 30, 2008

i HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM, FIXED IT ONCE BEFORE, THOUGHT THERE WAS A RESET BUTTON SOMEWHERE?? WE GET POWER TO THE MICROWAVE. WE'VE PLUGGED AND UNPLUGGED IT TO RESET BUT STILL NOTHING. DO I NEED A NEW ONE????

Comment by yofe, posted on Apr 27, 2008

same problem just happened no power no light nothing at all

Comment by Guest, posted on Apr 22, 2008

Have power to oven from the plug but oven is dead..

Clarification Request

by MicrowaveSvc, posted on Apr 23, 2008

In addition to the fuse, there is a thermal fuse on or above the magnetron, and a cavity / oven thermostat.

If either of these are open, the unit will be dead.

Why did the smart board get replaced?

What was wrong with it?

William E. Miller, AS-EET
prototech@usa.net
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

by JULIANFIX, posted on Apr 22, 2008

DOES THE LIGHT COMES ON when you open door ? did you check the interlock switch ? , when you said that you put in a new CONTROL BOARD , did you mean the membrane where the buttons are ?? let me know , so I can better assist you, thanks AJ

Best Solution
posted on May 02, 2008
FixYa! (100)

MicrowaveSvc


Rank:Guru Guru
Rating: 87%, 2390 votes

A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.

Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

You should do a continuity test the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.

If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If it has a hood thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel, which is very helpful when troubleshooting.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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Solution #2
posted on May 15, 2008
Not Rated (0)

guestbl


Rank:Apprentice Apprentice
Rating: 0%, 0 votes
My microwave was totally dead. Things I discovered: 1) There is an easily replacable fuse accessed by taking off the top front vent cover (two screws on top, gently massage off) and then the inside plastic grill. UNPLUG before doing this! 2) Pop off two wires on either end of fuse holder for safety. Then pop out fuse and replace. For more extensive help, there is an evelope with a wiring diagram inside the case on the inside wall! Very helpful when diagnosing the surface lamp problem (I forgot to plug the ballast back in when I closed up the bottom).

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