Question about Fisher and Paykel GWL11 Top Load Washer
Hi just read your posting.Now the easiest way to check to see if the problem is your oob switch is to join the two wires that go to the switch with a small piece of wire so there is conductivity between them.This will bypass the switch and if you still have a problem then it could be your motor controller or your rotor position sensor.Please try the joining of the wires and see how you go.If it rectifies the fault then change the switch, if it does not rectify the fault then I can help you further when you reply back.Please turn the power off at the wall before you do this bypass.Make sure when you join the wires you tape up the joins with tape to stop them shorting out on something.When you have joined the wires try a cycle and see how it goes.Hope this helps.
Posted on Jul 22, 2010
I also had the same issue but the switch was fine after testing in diagnostic mode 4 (push tub to back right and 4th wash ligght should come on). After taking the top off, found that bias spring that connects from front left support rod to red spring bias clip on outer tub had come disconnected. Probably one big out of balance load knocked it off. Looks like it got a stretched a bit so ordered from searspartsdirect for $11 with shipping. Current one is still connected and no problems so far.
That spring aint much, but it keeps the outer tub from moving to the back right and triggering the out of balance sensor, which was causing machine to stop in the spin cycle. Everything else seems to be in good working order upon visual inspection. Both F&P washer and dryer have been easy to work with and repair so far (dryer had bad/squeaky pulley that needed replacement after 6 yrs).
Posted on Jun 03, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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