Question about Garden
Posted by Anonymous on
The chain will be standard pitch and width so any bearing supply shop will have a chain to do the job
take the old chain as a sample for the measurements
Posted on Dec 17, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I bought a repair manual from Clymer and found the belt sizes for my Atlas 12.5022 tiller. The manual lists a 1/2 inch by by 36 inch forward belt and 1/2 inch by 32 inch reverse belt for the model 12-5100. Good luck. Don't bother to buy the Clyme manual. It isn't very complete.
Posted on Apr 27, 2009
you remove the cover, bend three tabs and the wheel will come out. Replace the cord in the manner that it is removed, rewind spring and install wheel, then bend the tabs back down.
Posted on Jul 04, 2009
From what I read you need a new rewind clutch and the spring and cord go into the housing. Briggs is easy to fix. contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org and I can send you what you need or you can send it to me and I will repair it very cheap!! Parts are available at almost any small engine parts place.
Posted on Jul 18, 2009
The gear box can be removed, reset and resealed using gasket magic. It is not a quick fix and during this process I also replaced the tine shaft seals as I had lubricant leaking from the gear-box to the tine shaft. When you are tilling you should avoid rocky areas. It iseems sudden tension due to bouncing is what knocks the chain loose.
DO NOT remove the belt pulley from the top of the gear box. It is unecessary. You must remove the entire assembly from the rear of the machine. It is set in place by 6 bolts and come off as a whole unit. Once it is removed then undo the three bolts and spacers that hold the case in place. Remove the case from the frame by sliding it out the open end. You will have to remove all of the bolts around the outside of the case; a cordless drill really comes in handy here. Lay the case on its side, as you remove the bolts you may experience lubricant dripping from the centers of the removed bolt holes, or at the center holes where the case connected to the frame. This is not a problem as you will need to replace the 90 weight lubricant after you have resealed the case anyway. Once you have removed all of the bolts, using a flathead screwdriver and a mallet or hammer. break the seal around the outside of the case. You may have to go around a few times, but eventually it will pull apart revealing the sprockets, bound chain and remaining lubricant. Since it is open this is an ideal time to check for wear on sprockets and remove any large debris from the case. reset the chain so that the tine shaft moves freely and the corresponding sprockets spin as you move the tine shaft. Using a gasket sealant (Gasket Magic**) put a thick bead of sealant in the center of flat outside edge where the two sides of the case come together. Add a little extra around bolt holes. Replace the two covers snugly together and begin finger-tightening the bolts back into the crank case. Once you have completed this task, go back over the bolts and tighten with a hand wrench. Once the case is back together allow 45m to an hour for the sealant to completly harden before introducing lubricant to the system. Then reattach the case to the rear assembly and then put your tiller back together.
This occurrence seams to be an issue with these machines, however the problem is avoidable as it is persistant use in rocky or hard ground areas which causes causes the system to jump and bind. If you happen upon a hard patch of earth or rocky area, go slow, do not force the tiller and remove any large debris when possible before tilling.
Posted on May 08, 2010
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