Question about Philips HTS3450 System

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The equipment began buzzing after powering on. The buzz begins high then slows down to a crawl and then stops; audio works fine after that. We started switching it to an unused audio source instead of powering it off, which worked for a while. Now it does the buzzing whenever we switch between sources, too.

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  • Anonymous Jul 05, 2008

    After powering began buzzing


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I had same thing happening until it finally died all together. no sound at all.....everything else works.....and sub lights up in standby. i took sub apart today....and found that 2 capacitors had swelled. you can see where i guess they got hot...because of the glue type stuff surrounding them went from yellow to browish -burnt color. so i'm looking for 2 capacitors before i can tell you if its the problem.

Posted on Jul 07, 2008

  • tjsfowler Jul 07, 2008

    i replaced the two 470uF 25V capacitors in the subwoofer..........with 470uF 35V ones......cause they where all i could find around town....and my sound is back:) the 35V ones are bit bigger but they fit into place for me. hope this helps out someone out there:)


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Sounds like a problem in the unit's power supply, have it checked by pro-tech

Posted on Apr 22, 2008

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Building on what WheatService said for any other newbs (like me) who may run across this...
1) Go to Radio Shack, get yourself two of the 272-1030 470uF/35V capacitors mentioned ($1.29/each) and a cheap soldering kit (mine came with solder and extras for $8). just take those numbers to the clerk, once he or she tries to sell you a couple cell phones, they should help you find the parts.
2) go home. disconnect the subwoofer from the wall, speakers, and dvd player
3) remove the 8 screws around the edge of the metal plate on back of subwoofer and carefully remove the metal plate and all the goodies attached to it. make sure to disconnect the two wires leading from the rest of the subwoofer to the circuit boards.
4) what you are looking at is two parallel circuit boards with a bunch of stuff in between them. to tell them apart, notice that one of the boards is home to a fan (amongst other things), and the other has the power cord running into it.
5) we want to remove the board that the power cord runs into, so make sure you've got the right one, and remove all of the screws which are holding it in place. again, be sure to unhook any cords before you yank off the circuit board.
6) once the board is removed, you should see two large heatsinks (pieces of metal). one is just a big rectangle that sticks straight up towards one end of the board and the other is kind of t-shaped (from the end) and a monstrosity. you'll want to look in the area between the two heat sinks but towards the smaller, rectangular one.
7) in that area, there may be some white foamy stuff sprayed around. take a look at the capacitors from radio shack and note their size. you are looking for two identical black, cylindrical capacitors roughly the same size as the ones you purchased (but a bit smaller). if you think you have the right ones, take a look at the side of them. you may have to scrape off some foamy stuff, but they should say 470uF/25V.
8) the basic idea here is that those 25V guys need to be replaced with 35V ones (the ones you bought). i'm no expert, but what worked for me is pulling lightly on the existing capacitors while melting the contact points from the bottom with the soldering tool. once those are removed, put the new ones in (push them almost all the way down so most of the wire is coming out the bottom). now turn the board back over and apply a generous bead of solder to each of the four wire points.
9) clip off the excess wire from the bottom, and marvel at your newfound expertise.
10) put the whole thing back together (steps 2-5 in reverse), remembering to connect the wires as you go.
11) turn it on and enjoy!

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