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I have a new construction in which I have a deep water well pump (560 feet well) that pumps into a 1500 gallon cistern. I then have a second pump in the cistern that feed into the house. I now need a pressure switch that controls these pumps and a well pressure tank. Can up help with the setup? I don't know the name of either pump so I just picked a brand.

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  • Karcher Master
  • 901 Answers

A pressure switch is a pressure switch. Any of them will work unless you have something really odd. If the pumps are just normal pumps it'll be OK. Plumb and wire them according to the diagrams.

Posted on Oct 07, 2017

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  • Karcher Master
  • 3,328 Answers

Look on u tube I found some system sets ups for my house the video's where very help full .

Posted on Oct 04, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Healeyman
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SOURCE: shallow well pump made by wayne well is 22 feet deep pump runs no

Inspect the jet thru the suction pipe or the removable plug if the pipe isn't inline with the center of the impeller. The jet is very small, and easy to get something stuck in there. Then prime and leave the pressure pipe closest to the outlet slightly loose to let air out. Once you get good pressure you can tighten the pipe. Sometimes you have to prime more than once to get all the air out of the well pipe.

Posted on Apr 05, 2009

Healeyman
  • 1198 Answers

SOURCE: pump 30/50lbs pumps up to 50 shuts off pressure drops to 32lbs

Look for a place in the pipe from the pump to the house where an air pocket could form. That will fool the pump.

Posted on Apr 05, 2009

  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: i have a flotec water pump that sits on top of my

if the pump is working correctly, it can either be, need more water to prime it, or something in the well, such as low water, plugged filter, etc....sometimes when you have a system that is intermittently used, it can take 20 or 30 minutes of continuous priming to get it to pull, enough water to maintain the prime.

Posted on Apr 06, 2009

  • 1114 Answers

SOURCE: Pump will not come up to pressure and turn off!

With no leaks in line and assuming the jet is not embedded in debris at bottom of well, try priming the pump again and getting all the air out.

Posted on Jul 08, 2009

woobie dog
  • 1273 Answers

SOURCE: Well pump not shutting off and tank never reaching full pressure

50 years old isn't bad..... but technology has changed a bit. I do have a few ideas. I'll list out several problems/solutions, and you'll have to pick and choose, depending on your particular circumstances. It will be a long read, but I would suggest that you read to the end before picking a course of action. Hopefully, others will offer advice as well.
Make sure that you have a working pressure gauge. I only say this as all of your (and my) assumptions have and will be made off of the gauge. It's critical. OK, with a working pressure gauge....Are we seeing the same pressure? If the pressure is actually higher, say, in the range that you are regulating for, or higher, the pressure switch is suspect and should be investigated/replaced.
When you shut off the pump, does the water pressure fall off? If it does, this might indicate a leak either internally (well/pump) or externally (faucet, etc.). Locate the regulator on the side of the pump. With the pump running (and a good pressure gauge), turn the regulator adjustment several flats, rembering your original position. This is best done with the pump at max pressure. Operate it in both directions, say four flats one direction, back the same to the original position, then 4 in the opposite direction, and back to the original position. Note the pressure on the gauge each time you make an adjustment. If any improvements are noted, work with it.
The most common problem with pumps not putting out enough water usually isn't the pump, but the well itself. Most wells have a foot valve and jet valve assembly. The foot valve has sealing rings on them known as leathers (although these can be made out of other materials). If the well is shallow, say 20 feet or less, the pump will normally pick up water without too much difficulty, even if it won't maintain pressure at the tank. Not knowing the depth of your well and the age of your equipment makes it a little harder to diagnose. Slippage within the pump, allowing some of the water to spill back, is a possibility, but you would expect the pump case to heat up over time, and this doesn't sound like the case. My guess is that you have some leak-by in either the jet assembly or the leathers, allowing some of the water to leak back to the well. The foot valve would keep the water pressure from dropping to zero. I'd trip the breaker to the pump motor and break the well head away from the pump (leaving the cast iron piece on the inner pipe). You should have a triangular piece around the outer well casing. Loosen the three bolts, then remove the two bolts that hold the pump to the well head. Gently separate the two, and set your pump off to the side. The aim with "gently" is to avoid tearing the gasket. (If it does tear, you can purchase gasket material and hammer one out, if replacement gaskets aren't readily available). Once the pump is removed, you can remove the inner casing to which your jet and foot valves are attached. Careful when removing it,though. You do not want the inner casing to unscrew from the well head and fall down the well. If there is a lot of sediment in the well, it will be more difficult to remove the inner casing, as the leathers press against the outer casing making the seal. I have always put several gallons of bleach down the well, although recently, a neighbor had muratic acid put down his well. This is dangerous, however, and only trained and skilled personnel should attempt. I let the bleach sit for several hours, allowing time for the bleach to soften the leathers. Once done, extract the inner casing, pulling the well head, inner casing, jet valve and foot valve as a unit. You'll have to pull it in a big arc and lay it out slowly as you go. More hands are better for this task. You may need to get creative in supporting the line it it's PVC. Once extracted, visually inspect the lower components. I recently saw one with a hole eaten in the top of the jet valve, producing similar results to your issue, but worse. Anyway, if this is where you are at, I would, at the very least, replace the leathers. And, I'd double them. Truth is, when I go to that much effort, I replace everything at the bottom of the well, foot valve, jet valve, leathers....
We havent hit on the tank yet. Older systems had an air injection system where a shot of air was injected every time the pump cycled. If no air went into the tank, the tank would become "waterlogged" over time, and would cycle constantly. This system was prone to failure. The remedy for this was to drain the tank, and start over, and to replace the air injection system. This usually called for the pump to have to be reprimed as well, at least at my house... Newer tanks have bladders in them with a pressure set on them to provide the same air cushion that the older systems provided. The air pressure on mine is set to 28# via a schraeder (bicycle tube) valve at the top of the tank. Check yours if so equipped.
Well, that's about it for now. Make your checks and please let me know what you turn up. I'll check back.
Best regards and good luck,

--W/D--

Posted on Jul 19, 2009

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