Read some other inputs that say its likely a thermal fuse and that you need to pull the oven out of the wall to fix it. Are there some other possible simple checks to make before doing that (element connections maybe)? And if this is a regular occurence, shouldn't they fix the design
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Re: Won't heat after self-clean
You're right... design should probably be updated. It does sound like the thermal switch as the cleaning cycle heats the oven to nearly 800 degrees which taxes the switch. If for some reason the switch went bad, only solution is to fix the switch.
You could verify the element is in place correctly, but i doubt that's your problem. If you were o read the terminals to the element with an AC voltmeter and you get 0 volts then it's definately your thermal switch, however if you read the terminals and you get 220V then the element is NG.
WARNING: 220V is nothing to play with. If you're not experienced with this kind of measurement, call on a professional repair person as electrocution a high price to pay to fix an oven.
a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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Hello John, thank you for allowing me to assist you!
I understand your wall-oven is no longer heating. The
wall-oven has a safety thermal to prevent the oven from overheating. If the
unit will not bake or broil, more than likely the safety thermal has tripped.
Other possibilities are incorrect power supply or faulty main control board. I am fairly confident that an
authorized service agent will be able to restore your appliance to its normal
operating condition. You can often locate a qualified service technician on the
If the display still works but neither the Bake or the Broil elements wont heat up, it's likely that the Thermal Cutoff has opened and has not reset itself. This is a common problem after self Cleaning.
The fix is to replace the Thermal cutoff which requres you to pull the oven and remove the back panel to get at the thermal cutoff.
What happens is that in Self Clean, both Broil and bake elements are used and the oven gets so hot that the middle skin (between the oven liner and the back panel, where the thermal cutoff is mounted gets so hot the thermal cutoff operates. It should reset itself but sometimes doesn't and then you have to replace it.
The thermal fuse on the back of the oven is out. Usually happens if the oven is installed incorrectly or the blower is too small to cool the back of the oven down while in self-clean mode. I'd call KitchenAid (whirlpool) and ask if it needs the blower kit to fix it. Have your model&serial numbers handy. In case it does not need the blower kit, the thermal fuse part number is 9759242, and it can be purchased here (use coupon "New10" for 10% off). Read my other post for the instruction how to get to the thermostat.
usually it is the thermal cut off( TCO) ,a kind of themal fuse which goes out if the temp exceeds certain limit and cuts off the power to the elemnts.it is to protect the cavity from over heating.it needs to replaced or reset depending the model. u will need a tech to fix this.
Self cleaning features are not recommended by most appliance technicians. The ovens are not constructed satisfactorily to expel the 1000 degree heat, Therefore the thermal fuses blow as well as other parts failures.
Remove the oven. Remove the rear panel. Replace the thermal fuse in the back of the oven. Use Easy Off next time.
The first time we used our Whirlpool oven the same thing happened - no power and yet the circuit breaker was not blown. I called Whirlpool, and they sent out a technician to check it out as it was still under warranty. He said the temperature was off (too hot) by 20F - he adjusted. He also replaced the blower. What he did not tell me was that the thermal fuse had blown, and he replaced it - this was the REAL cause for the failure. I got the impression that he did not want to let me in on the secret. He did not note on the paperwork that he replaced the thermal fuse. Last week I decided to run the oven through the self-cleaning cycle (the oven is now 8-1/2 yrs old) - I don't believe that we cleaned the oven but a couple of times since the first time that it was "repaired." I used the default 3-1/2 hour setting. Everything appeared to be fine - the oven went through the cleaning cycle with no apparent problems. The display now read "cool down" - I went to bed thinking everything was okay. I got up the next morning only to find out that the power was out. I called Whirlpool and demanded that they repair the unit again as they clearly never fixed it correctly in the first place. They offered me 15% off on a new oven - WHOOPEE! I asked to speak with the supervisor - he did not budge either. I was upset, and I told him that I would NEVER purchase a Whirlpool appliance again! I decided to tear into the oven to see if I could detect anything wrong. I pulled out the front panel - everything looked okay. I then noticed the "thermal fuse" - I did not know what it was called at the time, but it looked familiar. I checked voltage on either side of the fuse and found the voltage to be zero on the downstream side of the fuse. I pulled it out and read the information on the device: Microtemp 110C. I called a local appliance repair shop - they told me that it would cost $50 to purchase a new fuse! I told them that seemed very high. I ended up stopping at Radio Shack. They have thermal fuses in various temperature and voltage ranges. I got a 144C 10A fuse and carefully soldered the connectors to it and replaced the protective plastic sleeve. I actually bypassed the thermal fuse in order to use the oven before I found the replacement fuse. While it is a good idea to have a protection device for the slim chance that an oven may malfunction by overheating, it is not a necessity for the functionality of the oven. Hopefully, the thermal fuse will not fail during my next attempt to self-clean the oven. I do have a concern about the 10 amp rating, but I'm sure that it will work fine.
KitchenAid KEBC107KSS does not heat hot enough and does not heat evenly. When the temperature is dialed higher, it burns the cookies. When the convection fan is on, it has a 'cooling effect' so the temperature never reaches the proper level. Is this problem repairable? Or is this a thermostat issue? Thank you for your help!