Stitch is not the same on top and bottom of fabric
This is a new machine (2nd replaced first for same reason). When using stitch #8 I get #8 stitch on bottom of fabric while the top stitch looks like #13 stitch. I have tried with other stitches always #13 on top. I have changed needles, rewound bobbin, rethreaded needle. Any suggestions?
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 20 achievements.
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
Re: Stitch is not the same on top and bottom of fabric
Phone the store and arrange to take it back...with samples of your work as evidence..........was this a Walmart, K-Mart special ??
Get a refund and buy a proper sewing machine from a reputable dealer who will give proper customer service and advice, not a cheap pick-a-box option from a supermarket....they will be the death of the small retailer and we will all be the worse for it.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Your description isn't very clear. When you say the "bottom stitch is using too much thread" Do you mean you see lots of loopy threads on top of the seam? Or do you mean you see loops on the bottom under the fabric? If your loops on the bottom, that means the top tension is too loose, you've not remembered to put the presser foot down, you have not threaded the top thread properly... Start by rethreading carefully with the presser foot UP. Then do a test stitch, remembering to put the presser foot down. If you still get loops underneath... tighten the tension.
If your loops are on the top of the fabric. loosen the top tension... then do a test seam... and if you still have loops loosen again and repeat. If you start to see loops on the bottom... tighten the tension a bit.
Making a rolled hem on any overlocker is achieved in the following way:
use right hand needle only and top and bottom loopers. Turn stitch length down so threads are closed up (on mine this is 0.5). Your stitch length dial will be one on the right hand side near the flywheel usually. Loosen off the the top looper tension and tighten up the bottom looper tension (these are the right and 2nd right tension dials on front of the machine). On my Bernette I leave the needle at the usual 5, 2 on the top looper and 6.5 to 7 on the bottom looper thread. Move cutting blade position to the right so that you are trimming the fabric quite a bit wider than your stitch, this makes the fabric "roll" underneath inside the stitching to form the rolled edge or hem.
There is also another step that needs to happen where you change or remove a little stitch finger that sits in the pressure foot or just under it. On the Bernettes, you flick a lever to move this stitch finger back towards the operator so it is out of the stitch forming area. On some machines, it is a case of changing the little stitch finger which is screwed onto the pressure foot with a screwdriver.
I really don't know with your Necchi which it is but have a good look at the pressure foot, and around the blade cutting area and see if you can see a lever or check out the accessory bag and see if there is another stitch finger in there, it would be smaller than the one on the foot now. In effect, this finger sits out and the threads wrap around it to form your normal overlock but for rolled hem you want a much smaller finger in place to make a very little seam.
The other variable which makes a very neat job is to use a thread called "wooly Overlock" in the upper looper only. This thread when pulled under tension is tight looking but when you let it go, it fluffs out. So when seaming on a rolled hem it fills out the stitching and covers the edge of the fabric fully giving a smooth look. You can do it without but wooly thread makes a great job and you'll see it on all Ready to Wear seams usually for this reason.
If I am going to roll hem a fine sheer woven fabric like organza or chiffon I will change the needle to make sure it is nice and sharp and also ensure it is a regular point, not a ball point (I seam lots of knits so have ball points in most of the time on mine) Usually a size 80 is fine.
I hope this gets you going with your overlocker, I usually test stitch quite a bit with the stitch length at the normal 2.5 setting and adjust the looper tensions until I've got the stitch looking good, then turn it down to the very close 0.5, just to not waste a ton of thread.
Rolled hem would be one needle and two loopers, is this what you meant?
Make sure you move the blade to right so that you are cutting wider than the stitch being formed, you want the fabric to roll to the underside inside the stitch.
I would set top looper tension to 3 and bottom looper tension to 6 first off (needle at five, normal tension) first off and test serge with the stitch length at normal 2 or so, so you can see if the fabric is rolling under for you. There is proabably a stitch finger in the throat that you need to change too, sometimes its on the foot, (change with a screwdriver) and sometimes just a finger down on the needle plate.
Then adjust the two looper tensions making lower thread nestle up against the needle on the bottom of the stitch, and the top looper thread wrapping right over to bottom as well. Once this is happening, then turn stitch length down to close up the stitches.
It does depend on the weight of fabric too, and if you want to seam curves.
I find its best done with wooly overlock thread on top looper to "fill" in the overlocking appearance and fully cover the fabric.
I hope this is of help, if the tensions just wont behave then one of them might be faulty and machine need a service, I get mine done at least every 2 years to keep timing and tensions right.
Probably the most important contol on your machine is this one that regulates your top thread tension there are reason for having to reset your tension.Classified your fabric that you are using there are several set up of tension in every fabric that you use.Cotton fabric is most easier other than silk fabric make a record on this set up.The required tension depend upon the stiffness of the fabric,thickness,layer of rabric to be sewn and required stitches.Try cotton fadric turn tension dial to N0. 3 and Stitch set to from 8 to 12 defend to what is nice to you.
If the top stitch is loose, then you need to tighten the bobbin tension: if the bottom stitch is loose, tighten the top tension. Hope this helps. It could also be the size needle and thread you are using for a particular fabric. Different fabrics require different notions.
I do not have a buttonhole foot, but I can tell you how I do it with the zigzag foot on the Singer 132Q machine.
1. Mark the spacing and size for the buttonholes with chalk or marking paper. This consists of a straight line with a perpendicular line at the top and bottom that lets you know how big to make the hole. There is probably a pattern piece to let you know what the spacing should be, and you can get the size of the hole for the top and bottom line by laying the button you are going to use on top of the line you draw with the pattern.
2. Make sure the bobbin has plenty of thread.
3. Put the zigzag foot on the machine.
4. Set the stitch size to 1 or maybe a little less. You want a tight stitch to hold the hole together.
5. Start at the top of the buttonhole with the perpendicular line barely visible in the zigzag foot. Think of it as placing the "T" made by the mark in the "T" made by the opening in the zigzag foot.
6. Set the needle pattern to #1 of the buttonhole pattern (2nd from the top). Make sure it is toward the top of the number to insure you get a wide zigzag stitch. If you are getting a narrow stitch, you may have to fiddle with it, but it will work. Stitch 4-6 times making sure the stitch is wide, and end on the left side of the stitch.
7. Change the needle pattern to #2 of the buttonhole pattern and zigzag stitch down to the bottom mark. Do not pull the fabric or you will stretch the stitch. Make sure your last stitch is on the left hand side.
8. Change the needle pattern to #3 of the buttonhole pattern (same as #1), and zigzag stitch 4-6 times ending on the right side this time. Make sure the stitches are wide.
9. Change the needle pattern to #4 of the buttonhole pattern and straight stitch back to the top mark. Be prepared to hand roll the needle the last few stitches to make sure you do not pass the top stitches you have made.
10. Change the needle pattern to #5 of the buttonhole pattern and zigzag stitch back to the bottom mark. Hand roll the last few stitches and end on the left side.
11. Raise the foot and remove the fabric. You are now ready proceed to the next buttonhole or cut the buttonhole open with a small pair of scissors or a seam ripper. Make sure you do not cut any of your stitches.
Make sure you practice on some scrap fabric of the same thickness (2 layers of fabric plus pellon) to make sure you have the size right before you sew the buttonholes on the garment.