Question about Challenger Connecticut Electric UBITB-A230 "A" series 2 pole 30 amp

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Have Challenger Type C 2100 circuit breaker in residential home electrical panel. Manually turned to off position and now cannot turn back on. Pops back to off position. Also says HACR type and common trip on the label. How do I turn back on?

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First HACR is heating, air conditioning,refrigeration. So in other words you could use it on an electric furnace or air conditioning.
IS this the main breaker for the panel? or for and electric furnace. I'm assuming its for the furnace, perhaps back up heat for heat pump. See if there is another disconenct on the furnace, turn it off and see if the breaker resets. IF so you have a short or overload in the furnace.
If' it IS the main for the panel, turn off all the other breakers in the panel, and try to reset the breaker. If that works, turn the other breakers back on one at a time. IF it "POPS" then it is tripping. Don't keep resetting, find the problem.

Posted on Jul 20, 2010


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Challenger A1515

It appears that Siemans, Murray, Eaton, and Square D are compatible. Look for those brands with "1515" in the part number, such as MP1515, Q1515, BR1515, HOMT1515. Challenger is presume\ably no longer in business.

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Will an Eaton br 120 circuit breaker properly replace a challenger c120?

Hi - I'm an electrician and can help you with this question.

It is very important to note that only those circuit breaker models listed on the electrical panel cover are permitted by electrical code to be installed in the electrical panel. Introducing any other brand or model circuit breaker voids the UL or FM listing, regardless if it fits.

This is because the manufacturer sends his product to a UL and/or FM laboratory for thorough testing and certification. The product (electrical panel in this case) is tested with all the breakers the manufacturer supplies with the panel. If the panel passes the tests, the manufacturer receives the much coveted UL and/or FM listing or mark for the panel and breakers that pass and can be marketed and sold. Only those breakers that were tested and passed in that panel and are permitted to be used in the panel and can be considered a UL and/or FM listing assembly. The code allows only those electrical products bearing this mark to be installed. So, even though each manufacturer has their individual products tested in different combinations, they can not be "mixed and matched" between different manufacturers and products not tested in that particular combination. The only the tested combinations the passed are printed on the inside of the panel cover. Mix and match results in an electrical code violation (an inspector would require the correct breaker before giving an approval) and if a fire breaks out - and it is determined that the source was this circuit breaker - most insurance companies will not pay a claim. That's a lot of risk for a $10 circuit breaker.

You should only install a circuit breaker that is listed for use in the panel you have. Check this link for a listing of C120 breakers available for purchase

Good luck!

Apr 18, 2012 | Challenger 20 Amp 1 Pole C120 Circuit...

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The National Electrical Code prohibits the use of mixing circuit breaker manufacturers and circuit breaker panels by requiring all electrical equipment to be certified (UL Listed, FM, etc.). Challenger breakers are UL listed, as are Challenger panels. All the circuit breakers installed must be made by Challenger and must be approved for use in that particular panel (more on this below). Installing a different brand breaker into the panel causes the panel and the breaker to lose the UL / FM listing. The lack of a listing causes the electrical code violation. Should a fire occur, and the source is determined to be the use of a mixed manufacturer panel / circuit breaker installation, you insurance company may balk at paying a claim.

If you are unsure of the circuit breakers that are approved for use in your panel, look on the inside cover of the door. On it should be listed the manufacturer's name and all the devices that that the panel will accept. Deviating from the list will trigger the loss of listing.

A final thought: Most GFI breakers are much more expensive than a GFCI outlet. Install a standard non-GFI Challenger breaker and feed a new outlet (next to the panel) with a GFCI plug via the LINE terminals. Connect the rest of the old circuit to the outlet's LOAD terminals. The portion of the circuit that is connected to the LOAD terminals are now GFCI protected. Overloads will trip the circuit breaker as usual, but ground fault issues will trip at the outlet instead.

I hope this helps and good luck! Please rate my reply. thanks.

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Turn off the main. Carefully remove the cover (held on by 4 corner screws) --- the fat wires coming in to the main will be exposed and they are very much LIVE. Remove the wire on the existing breaker by loosening the screw and pulling out the end of the wire. The end of the breaker that held the wire just pulls out. The other end of the breaker is held under a hook that will easily disengage. Replacement is reverse of removal. BE VERY CAREFUL OF THE WIRES AT THE TOP GOING TO THE MAIN. If you are not sure what the main is, or you don't know what I mean by the wires going into the main, then DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR YOURSELF!

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If you have a main breaker turn it off. If your installation does not have a main breaker, I would not attempt to remove breaker if you do not have the experience.. With electric off, remove cover. Locate the breaker you wish to remove. Grasp breaker and pull the center out and to the side. It will disconnect from the buss bar and when it is out far enough the tab on mounting bracket will disengage. Now the question is why do you want to replace it. If yours is the larger style Challenger breaker (formerly Zinsco) and the breaker is bad, you may have damage to the buss bar where the breaker was removed. If this is the case then this position is not usable any more, and if needed the panel will have to be replaced. If it is the style in the picture here with your question, then you may be ok. If you're trying to remove a 1" breaker and install twins or 1/2 size breakers to get more circuit spaces, be aware these only fit in spaces designed for them. You can tell by looking at the legend on the panel cover. The spaces that will take these will have a dotted line indicating it can be divided in two.

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A Challenger 20 Amp single pole breaker shouldn't be priced much different than any other brand of breaker if you buy them online and not at Home Depot. That is if it isn't the Zinsco style like these:
According to Eaton's cross reference a BR 120 will cross with a C 120. You can find the cross reference here:
Lowes shows the BR 120 at 3.47

They look like these:

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I have a residential panel with all Challenger circuit breakers with the exception of a single GE breaker. Challengers say Type C115 and GE says 15A. Can you tell me if these are compatible?

You should only use breakers listed for the panel you have Look on the inside cover of the panel and see what breaker numbers are listed. Many breakers will fit, but are not listed. They are both 15A, but you didn't indicate what brand of panel they are installed in. Most likely, the GE breaker was added,

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No electrical power

You must find the reason the main breaker is popping ...

I'd start by unplugging everything and remove all breakers. Turn the main on ... does it pop? If it pops here look between the breaker panel and the end of your cord. Turn the power off - reinstall the first breaker - turn power back on. What happens ... keep doing this until the main or individual breaker pops - investigate that circuit to find your short.

If you get all breakers back in with out popping anything ... start plugging stuff back in. Something is shorting somewhere.

Let me know what you find please.



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