Question about LG LSC26905TT Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

The ice-maker shutoff arm in my LG LFX29560 doesn't move to the position to shut off making ice. It looks like ice falls on TOP of it, instead of pushing it up. I've checked it at different stages, and at one stage, the ice stacks up between the horizontal part of the arm and the vertical ice cube storage holder. Then, the next batch of ice falls on top. Actually, I'm not exactly sure that's the cause, but that's what it seems like to me.

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  • lliefveld Jul 23, 2010

    Well, we discovered that our house had settled and the refrigerator was no longer level.

    We re-leveled the refrigerator, and I switched to large cubes instead of small, and everything is working perfectly now.

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The arm should move to the up position just before dumping the next batch of ice thus preventing ice from piling up on the arm. After the ice is dumped the arm goes back down. Once the ice bin if full the arm cannot go down and this shuts the production of ice off. The arm will be supported on one or both ends. Make sure it is securely in place. Pull the arm to the up (off) position and then come back in a couple of hours to make sure no ice is being made. If it still is making ice then the control module or shutoff switch may be bad. There are 2 types of ice makers. One in which all the parts can be replaced individually and one in which there are bunched together in a control module. If there is a knob, pull that off first. Module units have holes in the face plate marked with a letter and do not have a separate shutoff switch. Component units have no holes and will have exposed gears. If you see no holes pry off the face plate. Now click this link on the procedure to test the shutoff switch on a component unit. http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/icemaker/check/shutoffswitch.php

Posted on Jul 19, 2010

Testimonial: "We found the problem was caused by the frig being unlevel, so we didn't need to use this advice, but I think the advice was very clear and thorough."

  • NOT ME Jul 24, 2010

    Fantastic. Simple easy fix. It must have really been out of level to cause this. You have helped me as I will now remember to tell people to check the level before proceeding.

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The box may not be tall enough for that model ice maker and instead of stacking higher and pushing the arm up to stop it, the ice falls out of the box and it just keeps making ice.

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In order to keep your refrigerator's ice maker working properly, there are some components that will require routine maintenance and inspection. Some of the most common problems that can occur with your ice maker are the ice maker not making any ice, making too much ice and not shutting off, the ice tasting bad, ice cubes too small or discolored and ice cubes not ejecting from the ice maker. Checking your ice maker for potential problems on a regular basis will keep it operating efficiently.

1.Inspect the water supply line for any signs of cracking or crimps in the line. A pinched water supply line can keep the water from getting to the ice maker, resulting in no ice or smaller than desired ice cubes. Check to verify that the water supply valve is open enough to provide an adequate supply of water to the ice maker.

2. Flush out the water supply lines if you are noticing a bad taste in the ice cubes. This can be done by disconnecting the lines and running hot water through them. Turn on the hot water at the kitchen sink and place one end of the water supply line near the tap, holding it in place to allow hot water to run through it. Place the other end of the supply line in the sink to allow the water to drain through.

3 Reattach the water supply lines to the water supply and refrigerator. Repeat step 2 for the water inlet hose which runs from the inlet valve to the ice maker. If the water supply lines are old or discolored, consider replacing them with new water supply lines.

4 Check the temperature in your freezer to verify that it is getting cold enough. The freezer's temperature should be at 5 degrees and can be set with a control dial, normally located in the refrigerator compartment of your appliance. To test the freezer's temperature, place a cup of cooking oil in the freezer with a cooking thermometer sitting in the cooking oil. Allow the oil to sit in the freezer for 2 hours and then check the temperature.

5 Check the ice maker's shutoff arm to verify that it is operating properly. To work normally, the shutoff arm should be in the lowered position. Inspect the arm for anything blocking it or preventing the arm from moving freely. Lift the arm up to see if the unit shuts off in the up position.

6 Unplug the refrigerator from the electrical outlet and remove the faceplate of the ice maker's shutoff switch with a screwdriver, located on the ice maker. Remove the entire ice maker unit from the freezer by undoing the screws that are holding it in place. Unplug the ice maker from the freezer and take it out of the freezer to work on.

7 Remove the mounting plate on the top of the ice maker by unscrewing the screws and lifting it off the unit. Locate the shutoff switch, which has three electrical wires attached to it. The shutoff switch is located directly under the shutoff arm of the ice maker. Pull the electrical wires off of the shutoff switch with needle-nose pliers and label them so you know how to put them back correctly.

8 Inspect the electrical terminals for any rust or corrosion. Use an electrical testing meter to verify that the shutoff switch is working properly. You should get a reading of 0 or infinity on the meter. If the shutoff switch is not giving a reading, replace it with a new switch and reattach the electrical wires to the switch.

9 Place the mounting plate back over the ice maker and attach it with screws, then reattach the entire ice maker unit to the freezer. Plug the ice maker wiring back into the freezer and put the face plate back over the front of the ice maker.

10 Plug the refrigerator back into the electrical outlet and allow the refrigerator to run for a couple hours. Inspect the ice maker to verify that it is working properly.

Hope this tips would help you.
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1 Answer

Icemaker in refrigerator won't stop making ice


Hi...

To fix your problem you need to check the shutoff arm.

An arm extends away from the ice maker over the ice cube bin. During each ice making cycle, the arm rises up and then drops back down after the new ice is dumped into the ice cube bin. As ice accumulates in the bin it prevents the arm from dropping back down. When the arm is high enough, the ice maker shuts off and no more ice is made until the ice level in the bin drops.
The ice maker can also be turned off manually by lifting the arm all the way up into a locked position.

The arm is supported at one or both ends. One end extends into the back of the front support. If it is not securely in place, it could cause the ice maker to malfunction. Confirm that the arm is securely in place.
For proper operation, confirm that arm is in the lowered position and that nothing is blocking it from normal movement.
To test the shutoff function, lift the arm up into the manual shutoff position. Recheck the unit later to confirm that no ice is being made.

Test the shutoff switch.

There are two types of ice makers, those in which all of the parts can be individually replaced and those in which some of the parts are clustered together into a control module. To determine which model you have remove the outer face plate. If there is knob, pull it off first, then pry off the face plate with a small screwdriver.

Modular units have holes in the module's face plate for test probes. If you see several holes, each marked with a letter, it is a modular unit. Component units usually have exposed gears and don't have holes for test probes.
Modular units do not use a separate shutoff switch. Instead follow this link to view instructions for checking the shutoff arm.

The shutoff switch (labeled "A") is located near the shutoff arm (Labeled "B"). Remove the switch by removing the two screws that hold it in place. The switch is connected by three wires. Label the wire placement on the switch before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the switch with slip-on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the switch terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced

Test the switch for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Touch a probe to the side terminal. Touch the other probe to one of the two other terminals. The reading should be either infinity or zero. With the probes still in place, depress the switch. You should now get the opposite reading.

Keep the first probe on the side terminal and move the other probe to the second terminal. The test results should be the opposite of the first terminal. If you had a reading of zero on the first terminal, when the switch was depressed, you should get a reading of infinity on this terminal.

If the switch fails either test, it should be replaced.


Hope it is helpful for you

Thanks for using fixya

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ICmanServer



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An arm extends away from the ice maker over the ice cube bin. During each ice making cycle, the arm rises up and then drops back down after the new ice is dumped into the ice cube bin. As ice accumulates in the bin it prevents the arm from dropping back down. When the arm is high enough, the ice maker shuts off and no more ice is made until the ice level in the bin drops.
The ice maker can also be turned off manually by lifting the arm all the way up into a locked position (shown belowef280e4.jpg

The arm is supported at one or both ends. One end extends into the back of the front support (see photo above). If it is not securely in place, it could cause the ice maker to malfunction. Confirm that the arm is securely in place.
For proper operation, confirm that arm is in the lowered position and that nothing is blocking it from normal movement.
To test the shutoff function, lift the arm up into the manual shutoff position. Recheck the unit later to confirm that no ice is being made.
If unit continues making ice even when the shutoff arm is in the up (off) position, refer to the diagnostic table or for a modular ice maker, replace the control module.

check the Shutoff Switch:

Before testing the shutoff switch, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
There are two types of ice makers, those in which all of the parts can be individually replaced and those in which some of the parts are clustered together into a control module. To determine which model you have remove the outer face plate. If there is knob, pull it off first, then pry off the face plate with a small screwdriver.

Modular units have holes in the module's face plate for test probes. If you see several holes, each marked with a letter, it is a modular unit. Component units (like the one shown below) usually have exposed gears and don't have holes for test probes.
Modular units do not use a separate shutoff switch. Instead follow this link to view instructions for checking the shut off arm.
d888eca.jpg

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Here is a link for the srevice manual ( section 7 discusses how to troubleshoot an ice maker ) that should get you going..

http://136.166.4.200/contents/Fridge/LFX25960/LFX25960_Service_Manual.pdf

Hope this helps you...

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