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I have an American Sandard 15 Sheer 4 ton unit in the attic in South Louisiana. The a/c drain line from the unit is sweating all the way to the riser vent and down the riser into my wall. It appears that the unit blows so much air through the line and it blows cold air through the p-trap which is causing the condensation. Any solutions or suggestions to stop the condensation from forming on the line? We have already put to 3/4'' clean out vents to reduce the air flow from the unit. Any help would be appreciated.

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First, air should not be blowing through the trap. The trap is there to isolate the air and to make sure condensate flow is proper. Start by increasing the depth of the trap. The condensate is going to be relatively cold, in the range of 58 degerees F to the Attic's OH MY GOSH hot. Pick up some foam insulation at your favorite hardware or Big Box lumber yard and insulate the pipe.

Posted on Jul 19, 2010

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After switching on the ac unit water start dripping


I assume inside the air handler closet, underneath the unit, or wherever unit is located.
Sounds like condensate line is stopped up.
You need to blow out with compressed air. You must make sure that you block air from exiting from open end of line. I use a plastic shopping sack. May have to remove cover to evaporator and insert hose in condensate drain connection in drain pan. Stuff the bag in around hose and opening to seal and blast air into line. Be sure that if there is a "T" fitting with riser and cap on the end, that it is secure, otherwise you may get a shower. You also may use the riser with the cap remove to blow out. insert hose past opening leading back to evaporator drain push bag down past opening leading back to evap drain, then seal around inserted hose and blast. The riser with the cap is where you would pour some bleach every couple of months to keep line clear.

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1 Answer

I have a new 5 ton Grand Aire A/C. It seems to take much longer to cycle than my old unit did. Also my plenum is sweating in my attic? Is this normal? Any Suggestions?


sounds like poor airflow if unit is same size as old equipment and duct work is sized correctly you can try raising fan speed if using a pleated type 90 day filter switch to fiberglass non-pleated type filter that restricts less airflow. Also check return air for leaks you could be introducing unfiltered hot air from attic or enterior walls.

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1 Answer

I have a Carrier central air unit in the attic. There is water dripping through the ceiling. There is a problem with the internal drain pan, as the unit drips a LOT of water into the emergency pan. There...


The internal catch pan is very time consuming to replace, especially since it is located in the attic. But before you try that, have you checked to see if the drain line is clogged with algae and that it has the one inch to one foot drop you need for proper drainage? Has you house settled throwing the slope off?

If you live in the South algae growth can clog you drain line. I would disconnect the drain line (have a bucket handy) and see if it is clogged. If you have algai growth then you need to treat with bleach to kill it off. You might also want to run a drain snake through the rest of the line to make sure that it is clear.

Good luck!

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1 Answer

In our company there is ductatble AC unit having capacity of 10 Ton which catert the AC requirement of two office rooms. This AC unit is installed in passage above false sealing and duct is extened to...


Hi, this is a 10 ton a/c unit, more then likely has 2 stages of cooling. You say the copper suction line is wrapped with insulation already, and the problems continue? What you need to do next as the evaporator coils are in the ceiling, is to have a condensation pan made to cover the bottom of the unit to catch any moisture that drips from the suction line and evaporator coils and have a 3/4" drain that will drain into existing condensate line. You can't prevent the suction line from sweating has thee cold temperatures are reaching its dew point and will always drip. The line should be wrapped with a black cork type insulation that has a sticky back that is made for this suction line. All you can do is have a sheet metal pan made to put under this unit to catch the moisture and let it drain or evaporate if its not real bad. I have seen this many times with units that are in the ceiling, which will destroy the tiles. Keep in mind that the suction line will reach temperatures of 40*F and will drip condensation when it is cooling so they should have put a pan under this unit when it was installed. This will solve the problem, and that's about all that you can do. Please don't forget to rate me as I know you will be kind. I wish I had other ways to solve this, but this is the only way, and the way it should have been done to begin with.
Sincerely, Shastalaker7
A/C, Heating, & Refrigeration Contractor

Sep 04, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I had my a/c charged today because it has not been cooling the house down. It took less than a pound, but it still blows worm air. Fan and compressor all running. I cleaned outside unit, filters, replaced...


It could be that it is not charged correctly. Check the insulated copper
line outside if it is sweating and the condensor is discharging hot air, then the ac is doing all that it can. Check the evaporator inside to see
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Getting the heat out of the attic is a good idea, but you must have enough make-up air in the attic for the fan. If you do not have enough
make up air, it will start to draw air from inside the house. One way to check this is if you have a gas water heater and or furnace. If you put
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Run the AC withoutthe fan, my real guess is the unit is not properly
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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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