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I have 2 problems 1st :- power fuse is always burn

I have 2 problems 1st :- power fuse is always burn when connect power source which is 5A 250v. 2nd :-the monitor couldn't bring data on the screen when restart my computer it work only when power it 1st time

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1st solution: check the system unit to see if the volt has been set to take more than 240 volts or 110 volts
2nd solution: it doesnt show data because the computer might not be booting or because the cable is not properly fixed at the port.

Posted on Jul 19, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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26126185-ljjiscivc4eprbdpzvjjenxg-4-0.jpg

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Power supply main and secondary fuses value and rate


5A for primary and 3.75A for secondary; we've used 4A there as well and frankly even 5A as well won't make much difference.

Be advised that when those fuses are blown you have a bunch of other things to replace on the board as well and unless you do them all there is always risk of a repeat failure. I am reminded about it once or twice every month :-)

Unelss you are a seasoned professional my advice is that you do not try to replace a power failure that resulted in both fuses being burned and let others do it for you:

http://www.coppelltvrepair.com/p/785/scott-lct37sha-power-supply-board-repair-serivce-for-totally-dead-not-powering-on-or-shutting-down-tv

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Can,t get it to turn on.


Does the red light come on? does it go green but no picture? Here are few possible solutions:

If you have no red light and you have a Megmeet MLT386 power supply, check these parts:

1) Swollen caps on the secondary circuit.
2) Blown fuse F1 (5A/250V) this is caused by a shorted FET at QA1 (20N60), you may also find that SMT cap CX23 is burned up (.001uf) which is in parallel with diode DA2 which may be damaged/shorted, replace these components.

If the power LED goes from red to green when powered up but no picture, then it might be lost +24VDC from the power supply:

3)Check fuse F2 (3.15A/250V, I put a 5A in), if it is blown, replace FET at QA2A (9N50C), replace QA2 as well (9N50C). Check SMT resistors at R233,R234,R235,R236 (.47 ohm). If open, replace with .1 ohm 1W or 2W resistor (easier to source). Also replace SMT transistor QF1 (2X4 or 2N4401 NPN transistor). And replace diodes at DS2 and DS1 (HER207), DS2 was shorted, DS1 was ok but I replaced it anyway.

I dont know as much about the Megmeet MLT169A, but it has similar problems and similar components.

4) I had to replace all of the capacitors in the secondary circuit (there are six in a 3x3 row marked EC9 (1000uf35V),EC10(1000uf35V),EC14(470uf35V) and EC18,EC19,EC20 (all 1000uf35V).

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Hi,

Here is the fuse relay diagram:

MKIV FUSE LIST
1. Washer nozzle heaters, glove compartment light, memory seat control module (10A).
2. Turn signal lights (10A).
3. Fog light relay, instrument panel light dimmer switch (5A).
4. License plate light (5A).
5. Comfort system, cruise control, Climatronic, A/C, heated seat control modules, automatic day/night interior mirror, control module for multi-function steering wheel, control unit in steering wheel (7.5A).
6. Central locking system (5A).
7. Back-up lights, speedometer vehicle speed sensor (VSS) (10A).
8. Open
9. Anti-lock brake system (ABS) (5A).
10. Engine control module (ECM): gasoline engine (10A); diesel engine, Model Year 2000 > (5A).
11. Instrument cluster, shift lock solenoid (5A).
12. Data Link Connector (DLC) power supply (7.5A).
13. Brake tail lights (10A).
14. Interior lights, central locking system (10A).
15. Instrument cluster, transmission control module (TCM) (5A).
16. A/C clutch, after-run coolant pump (10A).
17. Open.
18. Headlight high beam, right (10A).
19. Headlight high beam, left (10A).
20. Headlight low beam, right (15A).
21. Headlight low beam, left (15A).
22. Parking lights right, side marker right (5A).
23. Parking lights left, side marker left (5A).
24. Windshield and rear window washer pump, windshield wiper motor (20A).
25. Fresh air blower, Climatronic, A/C (25A).
26. Rear window defogger (25A).
27. Motor for rear windshield wiper (15A).
28. Fuel pump (FP) (15A).
29. Engine control module (ECM) gasoline engine (15A); diesel engine (10A).
30. Power sunroof control module (20A).
31. Transmission control module (TCM) (20A).
32. Injectors: gasoline engine (10A); diesel engine (15A).
33. Headlight washer system (20A).
34. Engine control elements (10A).
35. 12 V power outlet (in luggage compartment) (30A).
36. Fog lights (15A).
37. Terminal (86S) on radio, Instrument cluster (10A).
38. Central locking system (with power windows), luggage compartment light, remote/fuel tank door, motor to unlock rear lid (15A).
39. Emergency flashers (15A).
40. Dual tone horn (20A).
41. Cigarette lighter (15A).
42. Radio (25A).
43. Engine control elements (10A).
44. Heated seats (15A).
Fuse arangements in fuse bracket/battery:
S162. Glow plugs (coolant) (50A).
S163. Fuel pump (FP) relay/glow plug relay (50A).
S164. Coolant fan control (FC) control module/coolant fan (40A).
S176. Relays panel interior (110A).
S177. Generator (GEN) (90 Amp.) (110A).
Generator (GEN) (120 Amp.) (150A).
S178. ABS (hydraulic pump) (30A).
S179. ABS (30A).
S180. Coolant fan (30A). Source(s): http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=122606 fame !

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Continuing questions from Tony Fidaleo


I've sent you an email to request the copy of your PDF file to see what part in the circuit is making the fuse blow.

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3 Answers

96 dodge neon radio not working


Hello Jim,

Not sure where you are measuring your "good" 12vdc voltage(s) from, as with newer radios there are actually 2 +12vdc voltages you need to have otherwise the radio will not power up?

Also - your main car fuse block fuse for the switched ACC may be bad if you are only hooking up the new radio HOT 12vdc wire to the wrong batt source. I'm not there to actually see what you are or are not doing right or wrong.

Are you measuring it at the fused YELLOW wire lead (as in ALWAYS HOT, or as in connected to BATT 12vdc unswitched power source only), or measuring it at the fused RED (connect to TURN ON +12vdc ACC only), or at both ?? VERY IMPORTANT here.

Big difference and here is why - as both of these fused +12vdc sources have to be connected to the proper voltage source or the radio won't turn on.

The YELLOW fused batt voltage source is always ON, so it can remember your radio's settings in the memory, and also allow power to the CD player part of the radio so so as to be able to accept a CD even with the Ignition switch to the OFF position.

ALSO - that YELLOW unswitched +12vdc wire lead has a FUSED noise FILTER suppressor box (BLACK in color), and there is usually a 250V 5A fast blow fuse inside that marked suppressor box as well. NEVER replace the factory fuses with a higher value, as this will only cause more circuit damage if there is a possible short in that circuit leg.

The RED fused batt voltage source is IGNITION switched so when you leave the radio ON - but turn off the Ignition switch - the power is cut off to the radio so that the batt doesn't run down. Hope this makes sense to you. There is usually an in-line 250V 1A fast blow fuse in that marked fuse holder.

Both fuses have to be good!!

There also has to be a GOOD ground return - as in a good solid connection! Dirty grounds can be a high resistive point, and actually impede current flow to the point where some electronics will not work at all. You can still read a static +12vdc batt voltage, but NO current is going to flow in the circuit. I see it happen all too often esp with dirty batt connectors in the engine compartment.

Seeings your OLD factory radio was some ~12 years old it probably failed from OLD AGE. Possibly?

If it's a higher wattage unit it may have taken out the 5A fuse in the YELLOW +12vdc lead. Again from old age - as when the older the unit gets sometimes it tends to draw more circuit current, as from wear and tear on the CD player part, esp if you play a lot of music CD's in it. Same if it's a Cassette/Radio player combo. Then again - it could still be good, but you are maybe still overlooking a blown fuse like in the "ALWAYS HOT" YELLOW lead??

Chances of getting a 2nd bad after-market radio are pretty slim odds wise. Unless maybe that after-market was bought in a USED condition? If that's the case it too may be bad. You might have bought an AS IS LEMON in that case.

Depending on where you bought the after-market radio from you might want to take it back and have them check out the "possibly defective" radio there at the store. If they can do that there? If it checks out good at the store - then you are definitely doing something wrong at home!

If any + or - wiring leads were reversed in doing your DIY upgrade installation then the 2nd radio is history as well. Very important to NOT reverse polarities!!

These hookup guidelines and hints should help solve the problem, as I can't see anything else other then possibly a bad AMP if you had a really high powered car stereo system. You never said either way??

Hopes this helps?

Best regards,

Frank


Mar 15, 2008 | Audio Players & Recorders

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