Question about Kenmore Washing Machines

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Kenmore 80 series 110.25852400. Any ideas? Here's the symptoms: * Water fills up and then the system stops * Agitator can be turned clockwise easily by hand and feels like the belt is connected * Agitator can be turned easily CCW by hand but feels like nothing is connected tub itself can be rocked easily by hand in all directions * Change the dial to other settings in the cycle (Spin, etc) and nothing happens

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  • jjenkins22 Jul 19, 2010

    Perfect solution. One more question...

    The problem was the lid switch itself. To verify, I jumped the switch (keeping it on) and everything worked.

    my question: What's the harm in leaving it this way?

    Obviously left like this the washer will work regardless if the lid is open or closed. I've rerouted the lid switch wires away from the tub so it can't be hit, etc.

    Any concerns?

    I really appreciate the help
    thanks

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  • 5,911 Answers

If the model number you listed this question under is correct, this washer does NOT have a drive belt. Most later model Whirlpool manufactured top loaders (such as your Kenmore) use a motor coupling in place of a drive belt. This configuration is known as a "direct-drive" system.

From the symptoms you describe, the motor coupling is probably not the cause of this problem. The most common cause of the problem you just described is a lid switch malfunction or lid strike (actuator) problem. Symptoms may include, filling and stopping on the intial fill cycle, stopping right after the wash cycle, not advancing to rinse or spin cycles, and a wash tub that will not drain.

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike" or "Actuator") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3557193-replacing_a_lid_switch

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because it does NOT have a lid strike (actuator) and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This type of switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator rod by bending it slightly.

NOTE: You do not have to drain or bail the water from the washer tub to perform this repair. Once a defective lid switch is replaced, the washer should drain normally.


Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com


The average price of a replacement lid switch for this model washer is about $25 - $35 if you perform the repair yourself. Prices will vary between sites so shop and compare. If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please post back and let me know. This is a very simple repair that you can easily perform without the assistance of a repairman. The part number for a replacement lid switch is 3949238. The lid strike (actuator) is 350733.

If this advice does not help you enough, repairclinic.com has a Repair Manual you can order to assist you with all your repairs. The part number is 1170635 and is priced at about $20.

Searspartsdirect.com also has a repair manual for about the same price. Part number 4314044L. I hope this information is helpful to you.

Posted on Jul 19, 2010

Testimonial: "The potential sources of the problem were clearly described, the likelihood of each was discussed, and how to identify the actual root cause was explained. Therefore I quickly and easily identified and resolved the problem. I couldn't have asked for an easier process. I greatly appreciate the help."

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Jul 20, 2010

    The lid switch is a safety feature. Leaving the switch by-passed can potentially create a safety concern as the washer will not shut off if the lid were opened. Not wise since a new switch only costs about $25 to $30 and it takes minutes to replace.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Hello, Welcome to FixYa.

The model and serial number tag will be under the lid at the back of the "lip/shroud" as you look from the front.

Based on your description, the problem is likely worn agitator dogs/gears. The new dogs alone part # 80040 or what I'd recommend, part # 285751 as a kit with new hub too. These are common and availble at most brick & mortar parts depot's as well as on-line vendor's.

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To remove the top cover of the agitator, it should lift off by prying up gently with a flat screwdriver or puddy knife.

Under this cap there actually is a screw/fastener,( bolt ) it just may or may not look anything like a typical screw. It could be a plastic piece with a square center and with the aid of a large flat screwdriver inserted in this location pressed into one of the corner`s in the square center (as to hold it still or turn it, I usually hold it still while turning the agitator) at the same time as holding the bottom of the agitator, turn it counter-clockwise and it will come loose. It may be the bolt style and in that case just remove the bolt and lift it out.


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Thank`s for visiting FixYa. Good luck and let me know if I can assist you further.

macmarkus :)


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