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Re: Lower fan motor not working
Try to help the fan start with a screwdriver. If it starts, you likely need to replace the capacitor. However, sometimes this does not work and you will still need to replace the motor. If the motor is bad in one spot it may work and not start when it stops on the bad spot.
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It probably is the capacitor but no guarantees as the insulation of the motor windings could have broken down or there might be another fault. Proper checking with an insulation tester is advisable.
If the capacitor is merely a start capacitor and not a start/run capacitor the motor should perhaps hum a little when switched on and then run normally if the fan blades are given a vigorous turn by hand.
There are several ways of arranging the motor circuit and some knowledge of these would be useful. You could have the capacitor tested by a local motor expert.
Capacitors bought as spare parts from appliance manufacturers tend to be very expensive. Capacitors are usually bought in by such manufacturers and replacements can be sourced much cheaper direct if the type and values and the maker's detail are present on the capacitor case, otherwise you will need the services of a motor specialist to determine the values for you if the information isn't available elsewhere.
To eliminate the T-stat from the puzzle, just short the T-stat's two wires together. If it works then it's the T-stat. To check the motor and capacitor, remove the power. Find the common winding of the motor and place one lead of the meter on it (make sure the meter is set to ohms) RX1, place the other lead on the start winding (should be a high resistance), then move it from star to run winding (should be a lower resistance), then measure from start to run and they should add up to basically the same reading as common to run +start. Exception of the common- any Non reading between start and run is a open (broken) winding. Internal overloads are placed in the common winding and are thermal (open because of heat caused by a short), they will reset when they cool down. Also check each winding to ground (the metal housing of the motor), and this should be a very high reading indicating no circuit to ground. The capacitor can be checked by first shorting the terminals together, disconnect an attached wire and placing the leads on the terminals with the meter set at R X 10000 and the meter should rise (numbers) momentarily as the capacitor charges then decrease as it discharges = good capacitor
The problem you're facing here could quite possibly be more than just replacing a motor. You could have circuit damage which may be the reason that the furnace quit working. You can try testing the fan that is currently installed. Make sure it is working first before buying new parts. Determine the required voltage for your fan and supply that voltage to it momentarily. Do this while the fan is completely isolated from your furnace (unplug any leads from it to the furnace controllerboard) You may want to get assistance when working with electrical current so you don't accidentally cause harm to yourself and/or your furnace.
The additional wires are for a starting capacitor, not included with the motor. The easiest way to hook-up is to order the Outlet Assembly p/n 88617000 (available at Coastal Tech Supply.) The assembly includes the capacitor, connector, and shroud; and will replace the existing outlet assembly in the housing. Minor electrical work is required to remove the old assembly and install the new one.
the fan changes speed by inserting a capacitor of different values in series with the motor .. direct drive to the motor is the fastest speed .. a large capacitor in series slows it down a bit and a smaller capacitor slows it down more ... so if your fan is running at full speed all the time then one of the capacitors is shorted or the switch is bad .. if its stuck on one of the lower speed settings then the switch has a bad contact .. the capacitors are mounted together in a small box with several wires going to the pull chain switch .. you can replace the capacitor box .. and you can replace the 3 or 4 position switch ... or you can remove all that stuff and put in a remote controled system .. that involves a box that just fits inside the fan .. it is hooked to AC power and neutral .. it then hooks up to the lilght and the fan giving you control over both .. you can vary brightness and fan speed .. you would no longer need the fan or light pull switch or the capacitors ... you could also get a new fan having such a controller .. since yours is fairly old it might be worthwhile to upgrade .. some of the remote controls allow you to set a temperature ..if the room goes above that temp then the fan turns on automatically and the speed is determined by how much higher the room temprature is from that set value .. some remotes also give you an additional very low fan speed .. thats nice at night when you just need a gentle breeze .. some also allow you to set a delay before the lights go out after you have clicked "turn off" ... that gives you time to exit the room or get in bed before the lights actually go out ... kindof nice features that might make it worth while to up grade .. to get parts for your old fan see this URL http://www.ceiling-fans-n-more.com/hampton-bay-ceiling-fan-parts.php
since Home Depot sells hampton bay .. then they might have parts as well .. worth a try .. you can also see new models there ..
If it is running but running slow you may be able to save the fan motor that you have. I am assuming this is a counter top microwave.
First off... make that dreaded trip to your nearest appliance parts supply and buy a "Zoom Spout" oilier (Usually under $3.00)
Next (unit un-plugged) remove the 6 screws in the back of chassis cover and the 4 screws on the side. Begin lifting the cover up to about 15 deg and pull toward the rear of the microwave so the cover unlatches. Once unlatched lift off the cover.
Use a flat bladed screwdriver that your holding way back on the handle and ground the large capacitor at least 3 times across both terminals. It may make a POP but not to worry... that is normal and your making the unit safe to work around.
Now get a paper towel and lift the fan blade with your hand gently until it just lifts briefly. Wipe off the dirt from the fan motor shaft. Underneath the fan motor use a Q tip to remove the dirt from the armature shaft.
Pull the tube out about 3 inches from the Zoom Spout Oiler (under the red cap) Lubricate the fan motor bearings upper and lower from above the bearing. It is ok to over oil just make sure you spin the fan blade by hand then lift the fan blade up and down... use the paper towel to clean up the dirt. Re-oil again to flush dirt. repeat the lifting up and down of the fan blade (full travel 1/8" or less) and wipe once again. Once your sure the bearing mating surfaces are clean and the excess oil has been cleaned up test the microwave with the cover off. Just be advised the HV capacitor is now recharged so avoid reaching into any area where there are exposed contacts. It can really ruin your day. After your sure the fan is at full speed then re-install the cover assy by holding it over the unit with the rear elevated at a 15 deg angle... Ease the cover forward guiding the side locking tabs into the front of the chassis. Lower the cover and install all 10 screws. 4 on the side and 6 on the back.
That should do it. If not the only other option is fan motor replacement. If you determine that you need a fan motor respond with the model number and I can assist you in finding the replacement parts on-line or ;the part number so you can buy it locally at an appliance parts supply source.
We were able to get 3 fans running again by replacing the capacitor which had melted in all 3 fans. On one of the fan's the casing around the motor was extremely hot, which prompted us to act quickly. I suppose the fan had been trying to start itself. We purchased the capacitors at an electrical supplier at a cost of $15 each. We were not able to locate the type of capacitors which came with the fan. I am now looking for replacement capacitors at a lower cost if possible. Does anyoe have suggestions of a reputable online dealer for capacitors at a reasonable cost? I would like to keep some on hand.