The inside fan unit in the top is not running. The compressor is running in the bottome and one of its 2 fans are running. The temperature is dropping. The inside light is on. Some condensation is beginning to form in the clear drain tupe inside the unit. We just moved this unit from a restaraunt where is was actively working 2 days ago.
Thank you for the help. It turns out that the compressor needs both fans running; one was seized up and started after a gentle persuasion. The condensor fans come on after the freezer gets below 54 degrees. All was well except the temp was dropping very slowly due to one compressor fan not spinning.
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It should be easy to replace. However, Condenser fans are "usually" very robust fans. It should come on with the compressor unless the environment is below freezing (but not likely a feature). I would double check all electrical connections to and from compressor and Condensor fan. the outside bottom fan near the compressor. If it continues you may jeopardize the compressor. It is not made to run without the condenser cooling fan.
1) Failed compressor relay
2) Failed compressor
3) Failed component in the defrost system
4) Bad door gaskets
5) Failed door light switch
Questions to answer -
1) Is the compressor (large black domed item with three tubes (one stubbed) at the bottom back of the frig.) warm or hot? If cool, then you could have a failed relay inside the compressor enclosure. Unplug the refrigerator from the wall, locate where the wires go into the compressor terminal box. Remove the clip holding the cover, and pull the relay off the compressor. Inspect for evidence of burning. Replace if necessary and reinstall all covers. You should always hear a clicking sound when the compressor tries to start. If it does not start, and you hear it click again a few seconds later, then it's likely you have a failed compressor.
2) Was the condenser fan running? The condenser fan pushes rejected heat away from the condenser coil. If it's not running, it's hard on the compressor, and the refrigerator does not cool.
3) Was there thick ice buildup inside the louvers of the back wall of the freezer? Heavy ice buildup here is an indication of a failed defrost control or heater and requires further diagnosis to determine the problem. A knowledge of use of a volt-ohm meter is required, along with a willingness and ability to do some mechanical and electrical dis-assembly and test.
4) Was the fan running inside the freezer? Freezer fan should run when the compressor is running, but not during the defrost cycle (or it would slightly heat up the refrigerator.).
5) Look up my "Tips and Tricks" article on testing your door gaskets.
6) Open the door slightly and look inside as best you can. Is the light
on or off? Continue to open the door until you see the light go on to
confirm the light switch is working.
Following each of the above steps may not help you fix your unit, but will give you an indication of things to look for and describe when you post a request for help when trying top fix you refrigerator.
Jason, MOST refrigerators get there cold from the freezer side and circulate it via a fan that's also normally inside the freezer. There are three motors normally in a refrigeration system. The inside Evaporator fan motor that circulates air across the evaporator coil inside the box, the Condenser fan motor near the compressor that cools the freon after compression, and the compressor itself. If you open the doors (and sometimes you may have to hold in the door switches) do you hear a fan running? If not you could have a couple things going on: 1. The fan(s) has failed. 2. The freezer Evap coil may of iced over and the fan too is frozen stopped. 3. Your condensing unit:(compressor, condenser fan, condenser coils) has a problem. It is important to know if the compressor itself is running. If there is a loose connection to the compressor via the start/over load relay (normally attaches directly onto the compressor), or if the start/over load otself is bad the compressor will not run. Best way to tell is via gauges but I doubt your frig has ports. Check to see if your compressor is really hot. Could be bad start/over load relay or bad compressor. Try unplugging your frig for say 30 min then, with your hand on top of a cool compressor, plug the frig back in and see if compressor smoothly vibrates for at least 5 min without becoming very hot or shutting off even though fan continues to run. The fact your fan is running TYPICALLY means the thermostat is calling for lower temps and the fan/compressor kick in together.
If the fan is not running is the compressor not running also...if neither is running the possible reasons are 1..no power to outside unit...2..bad contactor on outside unit.is this buzzing if it is this indicates no power...3 bad capacitor,do both compressor and fan humm then quit humming and hum some more...4 high pressure switch has shut unit down because fan wasnt running if compressor was running but not fan....if your unit has this there will be a manual reset button where the lines come out of unit...if compressor was running and fan was not...1 bad fan...2 bad capacitor.. if you do not have any electrical knowhow i would recommend calling a hvac tech to come and fix unit...Thanks
Too many things can go wrong, but try this first, The fan on the top must be turning got the unit to work. Sometimes when a unit sits up for a while the fan bearings freeze up. Try trurning the fan with your hand of a screwdriver if it has a shroud around the fan. It may start moving and ususally when it does it will be arright after that. The inside will be hot because it will go into a defrost cycle 3 or 4 times a day and that puts a lot of heat inside the unit. Also the door frames are heated. Check to see if the compressor is running. If it is the small copper line going over tt the fan will be very hot. If not its not running. Co to start with clean the radiator coils on the outside and make sure the fan by the compressor is running.
The fans are controlled with a clixon that has a cut in at 5 degrees, and cut out at 20 degrees. If the unit is running and the fans are not comng on then I would have to say you are out of freon. But your condensor fan could be running and the compressor NOT be running which could be a problem with your compressor. Find out if your compressor is running by taking an amp draw. If compressor IS running then you are low on freon. If the compressor is running and your evaporator coil is cold and your fans AREN'T coming on then your clixon is bad.
Do not assume the problem is related to the compressor or the sealed, hermetic system; these types of problems happen only rarely. Your unit may have dirty condenser coils, a door that doesn't seal tightly, or a defective temperature control.
1) Check the cold control. Be sure it is set to "cold." Normally, the temperature inside the unit should be about 37 degrees Fahrenheit.
2) Listen for the freezer fan inside the freezer. When the freezer fan is running, it means the defrost timer and the cold control in the unit are both set to cool.
3) Listen for the compressor fan, where the compressor is located (typically behind or beneath the refrigerator. When the freezer fan is operating, the compressor fan should also be working (most of the time).
4) If one of the fans is not working or the compressor is off, the unit will offer very little cooling or none at all.
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the gurgling sound is normal, its the freon inside the evap. .the compressors also runs at a very high temp. , there is only 1 fan that circulates cold air, there is another fan but it is the cond. fan which blows hot air located at the bottom near the floor