The inside fan unit in the top is not running. The compressor is running in the bottome and one of its 2 fans are running. The temperature is dropping. The inside light is on. Some condensation is beginning to form in the clear drain tupe inside the unit. We just moved this unit from a restaraunt where is was actively working 2 days ago.
Thank you for the help. It turns out that the compressor needs both fans running; one was seized up and started after a gentle persuasion. The condensor fans come on after the freezer gets below 54 degrees. All was well except the temp was dropping very slowly due to one compressor fan not spinning.
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It should be easy to replace. However, Condenser fans are "usually" very robust fans. It should come on with the compressor unless the environment is below freezing (but not likely a feature). I would double check all electrical connections to and from compressor and Condensor fan. the outside bottom fan near the compressor. If it continues you may jeopardize the compressor. It is not made to run without the condenser cooling fan.
1) Failed compressor relay
2) Failed compressor
3) Failed component in the defrost system
4) Bad door gaskets
5) Failed door light switch
Questions to answer -
1) Is the compressor (large black domed item with three tubes (one stubbed) at the bottom back of the frig.) warm or hot? If cool, then you could have a failed relay inside the compressor enclosure. Unplug the refrigerator from the wall, locate where the wires go into the compressor terminal box. Remove the clip holding the cover, and pull the relay off the compressor. Inspect for evidence of burning. Replace if necessary and reinstall all covers. You should always hear a clicking sound when the compressor tries to start. If it does not start, and you hear it click again a few seconds later, then it's likely you have a failed compressor.
2) Was the condenser fan running? The condenser fan pushes rejected heat away from the condenser coil. If it's not running, it's hard on the compressor, and the refrigerator does not cool.
3) Was there thick ice buildup inside the louvers of the back wall of the freezer? Heavy ice buildup here is an indication of a failed defrost control or heater and requires further diagnosis to determine the problem. A knowledge of use of a volt-ohm meter is required, along with a willingness and ability to do some mechanical and electrical dis-assembly and test.
4) Was the fan running inside the freezer? Freezer fan should run when the compressor is running, but not during the defrost cycle (or it would slightly heat up the refrigerator.).
5) Look up my "Tips and Tricks" article on testing your door gaskets.
6) Open the door slightly and look inside as best you can. Is the light
on or off? Continue to open the door until you see the light go on to
confirm the light switch is working.
Following each of the above steps may not help you fix your unit, but will give you an indication of things to look for and describe when you post a request for help when trying top fix you refrigerator.
My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.
You just have a simple operational and maintenance issue.
Neither your compressor or fans should run continuously.
First, you need to clean your condensing coil. You did not provide a model number so you either have a flat cooling coil in the front bottom, or a canister type in the back right hand side. This coil dissipates the heat. If it is plugged up your compressor and fans will run trying to keep up with the unit temperature settings. This can make a difference as much as 40 degrees. The toe plate, bottom front is either held in place with a screw on each end. If no screws, there is a clip on each end. Just pull and it will pop out.
Second, You only have only one cooling source and that is your freezer. The freezer will try to satisfy itself first before the fresh food section. If you set the temperature controls beyond the unit design settings your compressor and fans will keep running. Set your freezer to -2 or +2 Deg. F., and set your fresh food section to 35-40 Deg. F.
Third, Check your door gaskets. make sure there are no gaps.
As for your fans, the fans in the back of the unit, (bottom back of the unit, not inside) is called a condenser fan motor this only cools the compressor for the fridge. This fan only runs when the compressor is running. The other fan is in the freezer section and is a variable speed fans motor, this can do two different things with only one job. The fan itself can ramp up and down in speed to control air flow and temperature demand in the two sections. This can run a lot but should slow down when temperature is met or while in a defrost mode. So to sum up this answer, it is common to hear fans run in the newer unit over the older units. Believe it or not do save energy with just moving air over running the compressor all the time.
Jason, MOST refrigerators get there cold from the freezer side and circulate it via a fan that's also normally inside the freezer. There are three motors normally in a refrigeration system. The inside Evaporator fan motor that circulates air across the evaporator coil inside the box, the Condenser fan motor near the compressor that cools the freon after compression, and the compressor itself. If you open the doors (and sometimes you may have to hold in the door switches) do you hear a fan running? If not you could have a couple things going on: 1. The fan(s) has failed. 2. The freezer Evap coil may of iced over and the fan too is frozen stopped. 3. Your condensing unit:(compressor, condenser fan, condenser coils) has a problem. It is important to know if the compressor itself is running. If there is a loose connection to the compressor via the start/over load relay (normally attaches directly onto the compressor), or if the start/over load otself is bad the compressor will not run. Best way to tell is via gauges but I doubt your frig has ports. Check to see if your compressor is really hot. Could be bad start/over load relay or bad compressor. Try unplugging your frig for say 30 min then, with your hand on top of a cool compressor, plug the frig back in and see if compressor smoothly vibrates for at least 5 min without becoming very hot or shutting off even though fan continues to run. The fact your fan is running TYPICALLY means the thermostat is calling for lower temps and the fan/compressor kick in together.
There seems to be a problem with the wiring of the thermostat. Apparently the thermostat is calling for cool (if wired properly), but is not being satisfied. The thermostat is just a switch. When there's a call for cool, the thermostat sends 24-28 volts to the contactor (inside the condensing unit to start the compressor and outdoor fan). The indoor fan is energized through the fan relay (inside the air handler). When the temperature in the conditioned space reaches the set temperature,then the thermostat cuts the power to the contactor and it stops the compressor and outdoor fan. Check that the compressor is actually running, if not, check for 24-28 volts on the wires feeding the contactor, if there is, and the contactor isn't closing then the contactor is defective. If the contactor closes and the compressor doesn't come on, check the capacitor. If the capacitor is good then check your compressor motor. I suspect you have an improperly wired thermostat
Download this illustration and then using a good multimeter start basic troubleshooting.
residential window air conditioners have a cooling system made up of
four primary components, a compressor, an evaporator fan, a control or switch, capacitor.When the thermostat is calling for a colder room temperature the compressor is energized. It is
normally very quiet.
evaporator is always located on the front of the air conditioner. It
also has silver fins. Be sure it is clean. Use a foaming type cleaner and rinse with plain water. Because the evaporator is absorbing heat, it is very
cold to the touch. The temperature drop causes any humidity in the air
to collect on the evaporator - sometimes called sweat. There is a fan
inside the air conditioner that circulates the air for the evaporator
and condenser coils.
The circulating fan and compressor are running
simultaneously. The fan motor has two fan blades attached to it on
either end. The fan blade on the inside part of the unit continually
draws room air over the evaporator coils, which are cold. The fan blade
on the outside part of the unit continually draws fresh outside air over
the condenser coils, which are warm. Because the evaporator coils are
cold, they cause moisture in the room to collect on them, much like a
cup of ice water on a warm, humid day. When the amount of moisture
increases, it begins to drip down off of the coils into the bottom pan
of the air conditioner. If the compressor fails to start or the fan you may need to replace the capacitor. You may need a hard start kit.
Thermostat control The
thermostat on a window air conditioner works by sensing the air
temperature entering the air conditioner. As the air entering the unit
reaches the set temperature it will cause the compressor to turn off.
The blower may continue to run depending on the selection chosen on the
control panel. Digital thermostats work on a similar principle but
display a more precise temperature. Test for continuity with the multimeter between the two terminals . Warm you should read continuity (contacts closed). If not change it. Selector switches The
air conditioner selector switches allow the user to choose the fan
speed. The compressor always runs at the same speed regardless of the
settings. If low cool is chosen, for example, the fan runs at a slower
speed but the compressor still offers the same cooling capacity. There
are other switches to control louver operation and other features on
If the fan is not running is the compressor not running also...if neither is running the possible reasons are 1..no power to outside unit...2..bad contactor on outside unit.is this buzzing if it is this indicates no power...3 bad capacitor,do both compressor and fan humm then quit humming and hum some more...4 high pressure switch has shut unit down because fan wasnt running if compressor was running but not fan....if your unit has this there will be a manual reset button where the lines come out of unit...if compressor was running and fan was not...1 bad fan...2 bad capacitor.. if you do not have any electrical knowhow i would recommend calling a hvac tech to come and fix unit...Thanks
Too many things can go wrong, but try this first, The fan on the top must be turning got the unit to work. Sometimes when a unit sits up for a while the fan bearings freeze up. Try trurning the fan with your hand of a screwdriver if it has a shroud around the fan. It may start moving and ususally when it does it will be arright after that. The inside will be hot because it will go into a defrost cycle 3 or 4 times a day and that puts a lot of heat inside the unit. Also the door frames are heated. Check to see if the compressor is running. If it is the small copper line going over tt the fan will be very hot. If not its not running. Co to start with clean the radiator coils on the outside and make sure the fan by the compressor is running.