Question about Philips DVP642 DVD Player
Posted by Anonymous on
Those blinks [flashes] are fault indication (Error Codes). From the number of blinks occur at one time switch ON, you can get an idea about the faulty circuit section inside it. This will make repair easy. These are called blinking codes. Make sure about the exact number of blinking of the standby/power LED, by switching On & OFF the set, for at least two times. Count it carefully. If you wish to get some details, check the site linked here. It has details about blinking codes, and fault locating procedure, to many popular brand TVs and other devices.
If blinks continue without any pause, the main board is faulty.
Posted on Apr 21, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
test the capacitor with a meter to make sure it has the value stated on it.
the work on this unit is quickly exceeding its present value, most likely.
consider upgrading to a higher resolution unit if the fix is more expensive in parts and time than a new unit costs.
Posted on Dec 29, 2007
This origional post has been up since June 2006. The answer(s) about the 1000mf capacitor are right on target and has helped people even up to today (Aug. 26, 2008). It worked for me and the following might help others.
First find the power supply board. It is the one with the power cord attached to one end (make sure you unplug all power first!). This power supply has about nine minature electrolytic capacitors in the output of the supply. There is a large electrolytic near the input (elecrtical cord). Disregard this one and go to the other end of the board. The 1000mf, 10volt component you are looking for is near the middle of the 9 or so capacitors on this end. It will probably be the largest in this group (because it has the highest electrolytic value of the group) and the board surface will have an I.D. number of C316 adjacent to it.
DO NOT ASSUME THAT THE CAPACITOR WILL HAVE ANY SIGN OF A BULDGE, DISCOLORATION, OR ANYTHING THAT WOULD IDENTIFY IT AS A FAILURE! In my case the replacement solved the problem but there was absolutely no signs on, or around the capacitor. After replacing it, I checked the old capacitor with a (ANALOG) multimeter. The test showed leakage across the capacitor. In other words it was still working but had a high resistance path through the capacitor. This is exactly what I expected because when I checked the output voltage of the supply to the other 2 boards, voltage was present but was reading about 1/2 of what it was supposed to. The markings on the front (output) edge of the board indicate a -24 volts between ground (pin 4) and pin 3. Mine was reading approximately -12 to -13 volts.
I hope this will help others. As a matter of interest, this is an electrolytic capacitor and you should notice that the component taken out is marked negative ( - ) near one lead. Be certain to install the new one with the negative lead in the same manner! Also, any replacement you might find with a higher voltage rating should be at least 16 volts but a 200 or 1000 volt rating will work fine. Although, the higher the rating, the larger it will physically be. You probably would not be able to physically install anything over 50volt rating. The 35volt rating seems to be very available and a very good choice. With regard to microfarad (mf) value, 1000mf are very common but a 1200mf to 1500mf in a power supply circuit will work fine. Do not use anything less than 1000mf. Hope this helps others. This is going to contiue for this Phillips product until they all die.
Posted on Aug 26, 2008
I had a more extreme version of this problem, and I hope my fix will help those who had no luck changing the capacitor. The player I worked on had a dimly lit power LED and nothing else. The troublesome C316 that you guys diagnosed was in fact bulging upon inspection. However, I wasn't so lucky. After replacing C316 with a 20000uF 35 Volt I still had no life. Using a Scope and my gut knowledge of fixing literally thousands of switching supplys, I found that Q303, Q304, and Q305 were not oscillating and driving the transformer. I thought Phillips was marginal on the C316's ratings, these transistors are only rated a 600 mw at 150 volts. With C316 leaking so bad, it blew them. I should say, my Cap was really bulging on the stress cracks at the top.
Anyway, this fix gives you a better supply that will charge the bigger and better cap you choose. Q304 and Q305 are 2N5551's. Basic NPN General purpose transistors. I replaced them with TIP41's. Q303 is the PNP compliment of the Oscillator so I used a TIP42. Just be careful with the leads if you need to do this fix. Looking at flat side of the original transistors, the leads are Emitter, Base, Collector. The TIP transistors facing you, heat sink away from you, are Base Collector Emitter. So you have to do some fancy lead bending to fit them in. They will fit, and they do hold their peak-to-peak voltage really stiff when motor operations are being performed (like loading or ejecting a disc).
This was another problem I have seen with this unit in the past. The power supply would cave in under the load of the disc tray opening or closing. Probably because C316 was leaking and I didn't know it.
Anyway, this version of the fix is for extreme cases and it will save you some trouble since I could not find a schematic easily.
Here is another tip: For those who don't have a supply of electrolytic caps lying around, you will find something that will work in an old PC power supply. I always keep these boards in my scrap box for these situations. Just Use a Cap that has a greater voltage and capacitance than the old one. And of course, the same lead configuration helps. Use a big "Hog" soldering iron to heat the solder and gently pull out the one you want.
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Posted on Sep 13, 2008
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