Question about Refrigerators
HI. There are two causes here, in this situation. The most common will be a faulty defrost timer, or adaptive defrost control board. The defrost mechanism will vary form unit to unit. Most newer units will be equipped with an defrost control board. This will be located in the control housing, just above the heat shield, in the upper right had side. Older models will have a standard defrost timer mechanism. If this device fails, the evaporator heater Assembly will not receive the command to defrost the coil, on time. The easiest way to isolate the cause, will be to test the heater element. If the element is functional, the defrost timer/board, will be the culprit.
Defrost heater assembly test procedure:
The defrost heater is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer or under the floor of a top freezer. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice-maker and the inside rear or bottom panel of the freezer, to access.
The panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. On some older top freezers it is necessary to remove the plastic molding to access the freezer floor. Removal of that molding can be tricky, so try not to force it, if possible. If you decide to remove it, you do so at your own risk. it will break, if forced. Warm it first with a warm towel, or hair dryer, set to low heat.
There are three primary types of defrost heater elements; exposed metal rod, metal rod covered with aluminum tape or a wire coil inside a glass tube. All three elements are tested in the same way.
The heater is connected by two wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.
Test the heating element for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. Because of the number of different elements we cannot tell what your reading should be, but we can be certain of what it shouldn't be. If the reading is zero or infinity the heating element is definitely faulty, and should be replaced.
Posted on Jul 22, 2010
a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US.
click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Tips for a great answer:
Jan 13, 2018 | Magic Chef Refrigerators
Aug 02, 2013 | Refrigerators
Jan 15, 2013 | Refrigerators
Jun 24, 2011 | Whirlpool Refrigerators
May 05, 2011 | Whirlpool Gold GS6SHEXNQ 25.6 Cu. Ft....
Feb 26, 2011 | Whirlpool (ET8FTEXSQ) Top Freezer...
Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong with your refrigerator and why it is not cooling
Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling
How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem
Water Running in refrigerator from Freezer
Dec 14, 2010 | Whirlpool GS6SHEXMB / GS6SHEXMQ /...
Aug 04, 2010 | Whirlpool 25.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side...
Nov 11, 2009 | Whirlpool Gold White-on-White 21.9 cu. ft....
22 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: