Does any one know of Olympus repair shop in LA area, I had a Olympus OM-1,
the metering system is dead.
do anyone here knows any repair shop or i center of olympus camera located in manila?
a 6ya Expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to an Expert (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Negative polarity wire isolated contact spill px13 batt..
Negative contact spring, is it greenish?
unscrew 4 screw bottom cover and also two of batt chamber , pull out carefull not to break the brown wire.
Is the wire unsolded ? If yes ,clean with amoniac de batt. cham. and after rinse in water , sec and resolder the wire , assembly.
Other cause meter coil bad.
You can download a manual for the OM-1 from http://butkus.org/chinon/olympus/olympus_om-1/olympus_om-1.htm
The OM-1MD is the same camera as the OM-1 with the added provision for taking a motor drive to advance the film automatically.
The OM-1n is the same as the OM-1MD with a redesigned film advance lever, a flash ready/sufficient flash LED in the viewfinder, and automatic X-sync regardless of the position of the FP/X switch, when it is used with a T-series flash unit mounted on Flash Shoe 4.
Olympus did not make adapter for OM lenses to be used on Canon XL1 but, if you are looking for the lens adapter, Novoflex XL-OM Lens Mount Adapter Olympus Lens to Canon XL-1, is the lens adapter that suppose to work. B & H has this adapter for sale.
OM-20 was basically a upgraded OM-10 with the manual adapter built in and a number of other refinements.
The viewfinder has LED's to show the shutter speed recommended by the camera's lightmeter for the ISO and aperture selected. It also has an exposure compensation indicator (the +/- symbol) and an indicator for flash ready which doubles up as a post-exposure flash confirmation. There is also the indicator lamp to show manual mode has been selected. OM-10 lacks the manual mode lamp and the +/- indicator.
Like the OM-10, the OM-20 is primarily an aperture priority automatic camera. In this mode you set the ISO film speed, choose which aperture you wish to use (with the ability to use the lens depth of field preview button) and then the camera selects the correct shutter speed. The +/- exposure compensation control allows the user to tell the camera to modify the recommended shutter speed by up to two stops either way.
In manual mode, there is no manual metering. The light meter behaves exactly as it does in aperture priority mode and the viewfinder shows the recommended shutter speed and not the manually selected one. Correct metering is therefore a case of adjusting the aperture first, and then choosing the correct shutter speed indicated in the viewfinder. If the user then decides to select a different shutter speed, then the aperture ring must be adjusted to maintain the correct exposure. For example the aperture is set to f8 and the camera recommends 1/60th of a second. The user decides that a faster shutter speed is required and chooses 1/250th, but the viewfinder remains showing 1/60th. In order to keep the same exposure value the user must open the aperture by two full stops to f4. The camera's light meter will detect the new aperture setting and providing the light on the object is unchanged the viewfinder shutter speed display should now show 1/250th as well to confirm the correct adjustment. Alternatively, the user can choose the shutter speed first by looking at what has been set on the control ring (or by turning the ring to the end of its travel and then counting the clicks from there as all experienced OM users do) and then turning the aperture ring until the shutter speed shown in the viewfinder matches what's been manually set.
It all sounds clumsy and complex but is done far more quickly than I've taken to type this and becomes second nature.
Aperture priority metering is selected on the camera by choosing AUTO on the mode selecter. In this mode the shutter speed ring has no effect and the viewfinder always displays the automatically selected shutter speed.
The biggest clue is that you're having to take action to save the batteries. High battery consumption is a a classic sign of a faulty circuit board in this camera. Unlike most regular OM-4's, the OM-4ti generally had an improved circuit board fitted from new which was made available as a warranty repair item on regular OM4's, but you may have an early one.
The faulty circuit board manifests in other ways, most commonly the dead display/non functioning shutter except for the mechanical default speed. I've heard of the screeching fault as part of this problem but have not personally encountered it.
The fault is irrepairable as replacement boards are fashioned of finest unobtanium; the same faults affect the OM-2sp as well. This is exactly why both cameras are now available far more cheaply as used buys: potential buyers who know these models are aware that they're taking a gamble.
There is a revision marking on the "good" boards but it's largely academic. Anyone with a "good" OM4 rarely sells it, and even the revised boards are old enough to have started deteriorating by now.
These boards won't be available any more, but the board should be repairable. Unfortunately most shops these days only replace boards they do not perform compoent level repairs. I don't know of any repair shops in your area since I'm in the USA. Try posting a question to Robotek who resides in Australia. I know thats no too close, but it is closer than me. Otherwise, search the web for a service manual as will I. This can be repaired. I suspect that the output transistors are shorted and perhaps the driver circuit needs repair as well. None of these areas are difficult to repair for anyone with audio repair experience at the component level. Perhaps we can repair this over the net if you can solder...