Question about Sony Handycam DCR-TRV140E Digital Camcorder

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Negative picture when filming

Negative picture on screen when filming

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I found the home website for your camera on sony.com's european website:
http://support.sony-europe.com/dime/camcorders/sd/d8/d8.aspx?site=odw_en_GB&m=DCR-TRV140E

I didn't see anything about a negative picture on screen when filming, though.

Good luck on finding a solution to your problem.

Posted on Jul 18, 2010

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When you were scanning, did you set the scan selection to scan negatives ?

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My equipment: N75, 28-80, 70-210, 50fixed. I generally use Ilford 100 or 400 b & w films. I seem to have a - recurring - problem with the end result. The pictures are severally grainy, irregular...


The grainy nature of the picture is nothing to do with the camera. Do you develop your own film? If you don't and you are paying for processing, find a new processing house! If you are; the problem is reticulation. In any case the 400 ASA negative film will be more grainy that the 100 ASA. Both will benefit from some thoughtful processing. Key points that will help are: Do not over-develop or "push" the film. Pushing is leaving the film in the developer for longer than the recommended time (on the instructions in with the developer chemica)l. Pushing will increase the effective film speed by a controlled amount, but will always increase grain size, some times worth the price. BUT... the most common reason for graininess when not "pushing" film is reticulation. This is caused by the simple mistake of washing the film after developing and fixing (hopefully at 20 degrees C), in cold tap water. The sudden temperature change causes the grains to join up (Reticulate, just like a giraffe!) into bigger grains. Not reversible. Just do the wash stage in water that is the same temperature as the developer and the fixer. Of course the wash or stopper between dev and fix can cause the same problem... same answer, have everything at 20 degC. The irregular patches (dark on the negative) will be caused by insufficient agitation during development. The tank should be inverted every few seconds, or if in a commercial dev line, it should have nitrogen gas agitation every few seconds. Usually what happens is the dev house runs out of nitrogen but doesn't realise it has. If you can post a sample of your pictures I can be more accurate with a diagnosis, or email some to me at david@dtmpower.com

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My fisheye pictures don't come out perfectly circular anymore... on the bottom right corner of all the pictures is a black part that looks like a shadow. what is wrong with it?


Sounds like you have a light leak. At the film plane of your camera the image from the lens is upside down and laterally reversed, so the light leak is at the top left of the film when it's in the camera. If you're shooting for prints look at the strips of negatives. If the edges of the film are affected as well as the picture area then the light leak is at the back. If it's just the picture area then the light leak is through the film gate. If you hold a strip of negatives in the camera with the emulsion towards the lens and the picture upside down and then line up the picture with the film gate this should point to the problem area. All this assumes that your finger wasn't in front of the lens... :-)

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Negative effect on Bright areas of Monitor/TV


Try demagitizing the moniter. In the monitor's menu it will have a picture of a magnic , select it. Sometimes it is listed as degrous. After selecting this, your screen will seem to spin then settle. If your still have problems, a magnic may have come close to the moniter while it was being stored, and that will ruin the picture.

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Sony pfm 42b1 negative picture


Hi,

I have a Sony PFM-42v1 and it does the same thing, look in your tv menu for picture inversion, usually under screen saver. What it actually does is reduce the chance of screen burnin. By reversing the image it sort of resets the hot areas, brightest colours and the cooler areas being dark colours, switches them around ( negative ). This cools the hot spots and heats up the cold spots.

There should be a option to turn it off, mine and I guess yours as a default is ON, mine has the ON, timer and OFF options.

Hope this helps, please let me know if you need more info.

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Negative picture??


Make and model number? What type of screen? Computer or TV. Are you using composite cables? If so, you may have them crossed over.

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My first roll of film came back all blank. Not even one negative was underexposed. I have just bought a Nikon F6 film camara.


Just to make sure, if you do see the picture on your negatives, then the problem most likely lies within the developer. Try somewhere else and see if that works for you. If not, then you can use another type of film. The film could have been mishandled when manufacturered. These cameras don't usually have problems so that would be the last thing I would look at.

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Film not loading properly


The lines could be scratches in the negatives.

Have you looked CLOSELY at your negatives with a magnifier to see if the scratches are on your film?

And when you say "Serviced", do you mean "cleaned" also?

If you have scratched film, then return it to the place you got it serviced/cleaned and let the owner/manager know that you just had it serviced there and it's scratching your negatives.

If you have an automatic camera, this bit below will be of no help.

Assuming that your camera is a manual loader, it may be that you aren't putting enough film into the take up spool for it to catch.

Try putting a little more film into the take up spool when you are loading the camera, and MAKE SURE that the holes in the film LINE UP with the film sprockets.

Then after you close the film door and start advancing your film, look at the film rewind knob, if it isn't turning while you are winding in film, then your film hasn't caught in the take up spool.

Another way to tell if your film is advancing is to shoot a test shot, and then advance the film, and then lightly turn the rewind knob a bit.

You should be able to feel the tension of the film if it is loaded correctly.

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Are you sure that you have loaded the film properly?
Sometimes if you have not started the film so that the sprocket pulls the film correctly the film can aquire slack and the teeth of the sprocket may not be successfully pulling the film from the canister each time.

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