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Trying to get the spool off. The plastic rig around the nut is gone nut is stripped. I am trying to disassemble from the motor thinking the cable is broken but still can't get it apart. Stihl fs 45

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Maybe you can lock up the motor and just remove the whole string head as a complete assembly...Try taking the spark plug out of the engine...turn the engine over till the piston is near bottom of the cylinder, then insert a length of clean pull rope or curtain cord or even nylon rope into cylinder..then when your turn the spool or string head the engine piston will come up and compress the material inside...effectively locking up the motor to allow removal of the spool.

Posted on Jul 18, 2010

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I like to change the cable


ou will need to disassemble the dash to get the cable out. You need to remove the bezel around the instrument cluster and the cable snaps into the back of the cluster. It routes through the firewall and under the vehicle to the back of the transmission where there is a knurled nut that you will likely need a pair of pliers to remove. I don't know how much detail you need, so if you can let me know where you need specific info, I can get it to you. All that being said, where the cable goes onto the transmission, there is a housing held in by one bolt. Remove this bolt and work the housing out of the transmission. On the end, there is a plastic gear. These sometimes get stripped. Check it before going after the cable.

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May 24, 2012 | Dyson DC08 Cylinder Bagless Canister...

1 Answer

The passenger rear window stopped rolling up and dow on its own. i am broke so im trying to repair it myself. the motors working fine but the cable that pulls the window up and down isnt broke but seems to...


You describe a window regulator which has broken. The regulator is constructed with pullys and a spool which the motor moves to either retract or extend the window slide up or down. They are always replaced -- never repaired. My search for an ILLUSTRATION or DIAGRAM was unsuccessful. However, if you choose to attempt repair, I suggest you remove the driver's side window regulator and compare it to the passenger side, AND IF you are mechanically talented, you could possibly repair it. Caution, the pullys are pastic and rivetted in place. if the plastic pully is broken, you'd have to find a suitable substitute and install it (either rivet or nut w/bolt/washer, etc.). If the cable is tangled up in the spool, again caution should be taken if you try to remove it as this may damage the spool. If the spool is damaged.... well, that's a horse of a different color. It stands to reason that assembly was/is possible, but disassembly is quite different. You'll just have to study/examine what's possible/achieveable with it.

Aug 26, 2011 | Hyundai Elantra Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Broken pullcord . cord is missing how long should new cord be and how hard is it to replace


Just went through this pain today. Here's how I did it. Use allen wrench with T handle to remove the shroud over the carb controls and plug. Then remove about 10 screws and split the case. Use tool that comes with the unit to remove the nut holding the impeller. Behind the impeller, use torx head to get the other bolts to remove the motor. There are two other screws on the other side that hold the motor on. Drop the motor from the case carefully. It is still attached by wires to the throttle and kill switch. Note how the throttle linkage is connected because it will come apart for sure. On the one side of the housing you are looking at the plastic cord spool with the spring unit behind it. My chord simply pulled out of the spool. It was held on with a 10mm nut and start washer (not a good design). If the chord broke, remove the remnant from the take up spool. To rewind the new chord or replace the one that pulled free, you need to wind the spring to put tension on it. Make sure the take up spool engages with the spring tang otherwise it will turn free and not tense the sprint. Once engaged with the tang, the spool should set to the bottom to be level with the metal chord guide. Turn the spool clockwise 3-4 turns until you feel it tighten. With a 2nd pair of hands, hold the tension on the spool and tread in your chord. Route the chord through the take up reel into the hole on the side. Loosen the 10mm nut with the star washer and route the end of the chord through it. Tie a simple knot in the end to prevent it from pulling through. Tighten the 10mm nut which clamps on the chord. Now, slowly, let the spring tension take up the loose chord until fully retracted. Make sure the metal chord guide fits in the slot to channel the chord properly into the take up reel. Hold the spool down and give the chord a gentle test or two. The chord should retract easily and fully. Simple as pie!!! Reverse the disassembly and you are back in business.

Apr 01, 2011 | Poulan/Weed Eater No. Bvm200le 711482 24cc...

1 Answer

How to replace window motor and regulator for a 2002 town and country


1) remove the 2 screws from the door. There is one behind the handle and one on the arm rest where you pull the door shut. Pry off the little plastic covers and simply screw them out. There might also be one on the bottom of the very bottom of the door panel, but there was not on my van. 2) Pry off the auto window control panel. It takes some force, but should off clean and be able to re-insert without any replacement parts. 3) Pull the door panel off. It's held on by a number of clips, so you'll want to start at one corner and pull all the way around. It sounds like you are breaking the door, but it's just the sound of the clips popping. YOU MAY BREAK SOME CLIPS, but you can re-insert them easily...if you can find them. I had to look at 3 different auto parts stores. But you can move them around so that they are in the right place and get by with less clips than you think when you replace the door. 4) push the panel up over the lock button and pull slowly back and unplug the connection to the control panel, this should pull out pretty easily. Then disconnect the door handle from the rod by rotating it and pulling down. It will push right back in the same way. 5) The motor is at the bottom and is connected to the regulator. check the regulator to make sure it's not damaged. If it really is just the motor, you won't hear anything when you push the window button. If the regulator is locked up, you will hear the motor trying to push against it. 6) Unplug the electric connection from the motor. 7) Make sure the window is held in place. I taped it in place, but the tape left a residue, so if possibe, you'll want to wedge something in to hold it fully upright. 7) Use a pliers to remove the circular sheet metal cover that attaches the regulator to the motor. I pulled this off before disconnecting the motor itself and then pulled the white wire coil off and attached it to my new motor to make sure everything worked before removing the old motor. 7a) Beware of the regulator cables wrapped around the spool. In my case, once I got the spool and cable guide off of the motor, the cables unraveled instantly from the spool.
7b) Since they are unraveled anyways, pull the cable ends out of the spool and place the white cable keeper on the motor. 7c) Run the cables through the cable keeper with the spring spacer tube feeding into the end. 7d) To wind the cables back up, lock the cable end from the right back into the front of the spool and wind it in the logical direction (I say this because the lock on the spool points the cable in the direction it will be wound). 7e) Next thread and lock the back (short cable coming from the left if your window was stuck in the full up position) cable into the lock on the back of the spool and again wind in the logical direction. This is another tricky part because the cables will be very tight when wound correctly. i held the spool horrizontal and had to pull the back (now top) cable over the first wind of itself in order to get it in the correct position. 7f) Now slowly and carefully tilt the spool back to the normal vertical position and see if it miraculously matches the position of the new motor shaft (square). Don't worry, if it doesn't, temporarily hook up the motor wire to the motor and the window switch (unless you have a helper who can operate the drivers side switch) to the car wire and slightly tap it. 1 tap was all it took for mine to line up and on it went.
8) Attaching the regulator coil to the new motor is easy, just push it in place and re-attach the metal cover by bending the little tabs back over the motor. If the square drive is not alligned with the regulator coil indent, you can plug in the new motor and use the swith to rotate it into place. This is also a good check to make sure it works and that you problem is not in the wiring. 9) After the metal cover is back on, reconnect the electrical and you can test the new motor before you actually mount it. 10) To remove the old motor, there are 3 bolts with rubber encased nuts on the back. They will screw out, but they can be tricky. First try holding with your fingers. If that doesn't work, try a thin pair of pliers (like needle nose), but make sure they are as close to the sheet metal as you can get. If that fails, the rubber is most likely weakened and you should be able to just pull or wedge the motor away from the door and the nut will pull out of the rubber (I was able to get one with my fingers, one with pliers and had to pull the other thru).
11) Then I bought some new bolts, nuts and washers and screwed the new motor in normally. Optionally, the bolts and rubber washers can be replaced by parts from a home improvement store such as Lowe's or Home Depot. Purchase at least three of each of the following.
  • 1/4-20 Pan Head Machine Screw, Stainless Steel
  • 1/4-20 Lock Nuts, Nylon Insert, Stainless Steel
  • Rubber Grommet, 9/16 OD x 1/4 ID
  • 1/4 flat washer, Stainless Steel for use inside the door to protect the grommet from damage when the nut is tightended.
The Stainless Steel parts will resist rust as the inside of the door will get wet and the nylon locking nut will not loosen up on you. 12) to reattach the door, I made sure there were at least a couple of working clips on each side of the door and just pushed it back on. MAKE SURE TO RECONNECT AND TEST THE SWITCH AND HANDLE before pushing it all the way in. 13) replace the 2 screws and thats it.

May 30, 2010 | 2005 Chrysler Town & Country

1 Answer

How can the sebo k3 be dismantled to fit a new cable ?


I wrote this guide originally for dismantling the Sebo K1, but I believe that with respect to the cable-rewind, the K3 is pretty much identical. So here goes:
1. remove the hose
2. remove the hose-retaining ring
3. remove the flap that covers the green filter.
4. remove the screw beneath that flap nearest to the handle (there's a deeply recessed screw on the other side, but you can ignore that)
5. remove the clip at the back of the machine where the airbelt joins (lever it off carefully with a screwdriver)
6. this is where it begins to get interesting. The airbelt is in two parts - the bulky foam strip and a thin material cover. The cover is held in grooves, top and bottom, running all the way round the machine, by two thin plastic strips around which it is wrapped and which just slip into those grooves. The first challenge is to get those strips, and the covering material, out without damaging them. Just prise one end out with a small screwdriver and work your way around the machine - it's more a matter of patience than anything else. (The second challenge is getting it back neatly!)
7. remove the ends of the foam strip far enough to reveal two plastic clips that hold top and bottom of the body together
8. prise those clips off with a screwdriver.
9. it should now be possible to lift the top cover off. It can be a bit fiddly getting it off over the neck where the hose plugs in, but it does come off.
10. the cable rewind spool is now revealed in all its glory.
11. if you've found my advice helpful so far, here's a final piece... don't try to fit a new cable to the old spool - fit a complete new spool.
12. good luck!

I value feedback, so please remember to rate this response.

Jan 20, 2010 | Sebo Vacuums

2 Answers

Water leaks from the door of countertop model on


My older model had cheap plastic type rivets around the window. Of course they broke and water leaked out the window. I took the door apart and put in a new gasket the siliconed the heck out of it!
Put dishwasher on a counter or floor and put a nice thick phonebook under neath the opened door for support. Carefully replace window with gasket and a bead of silicone. Put enough weight on top to press it down and seal it. Leave for 24-48 hrs. I've replaced the window 3 times and this fix has lasted 2 years now. total cost about $10 and a little effort. make sure you use heat tolerant silicone.

Dec 22, 2009 | Danby DDW497W 22 in. Countertop Dishwasher

2 Answers

Passenger side power window is not rolling up or down. However,You can hear the motor working


not necessarily..had same problem with mine and cable had just gone off spool.. took regulator apart and put cable back on spool..

Sep 25, 2009 | 2003 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD

1 Answer

Power cord will not fully unwind. Is there any way to open cleaner to find out why? telbel1


OK, but be warned... it's not so difficult getting the thing apart, but making a neat job of reassembly has been known to drive grown men to despair. And that's because you have to remove the airbelt. But first things first:
1. remove the hose
2. remove the hose-retaining ring
3. remove the flap that covers the green filter.
4. remove the screw beneath that flap nearest to the handle (there's a deeply recessed screw on the other side, but you can ignore that)
5. remove the clip at the back of the machine where the airbelt joins (lever it off carefully with a screwdriver)
6. this is where it begins to get interesting. The airbelt is in two parts - the bulky foam strip and a thin material cover. The cover is held in grooves, top and bottom, running all the way round the machine, by two thin plastic strips around which it is wrapped and which just slip into those grooves. The first challenge is to get those strips, and the covering material, out without damaging them. Just prise one end out with a small screwdriver and work your way around the machine - it's more a matter of patience than anything else. (The second challenge is getting it back neatly!) 
7. remove the ends of the foam strip far enough to reveal two plastic clips that hold top and bottom of the body together
8. prise those clips off with a screwdriver.
9. it should now be possible to lift the top cover off. It can be a bit fiddly getting it off over the neck where the hose plugs in, but it does come off.
10. the cable rewind spool is now revealed in all its glory.
11. if you've found my advice helpful so far, here's a final piece... don't try to fit a new cable to the old spool - fit a complete new spool.
12. good luck!
 
I value feedback, so please remember to rate this response.

Sep 11, 2009 | Sebo Air Belt C2.1 Bagged Canister Vacuum

1 Answer

I have a SEBO air belt k. The wire retraction is not working. I dont see how to get a look at the mechanism. Can you help?


OK, but be warned... it's not so difficult getting the thing apart, but making a neat job of reassembly has been known to drive grown men to despair. And that's because you have to remove the airbelt. But first things first:
1. remove the hose
2. remove the hose-retaining ring
3. remove the flap that covers the green filter.
4. remove the screw beneath that flap nearest to the handle (there's a deeply recessed screw on the other side, but you can ignore that)
5. remove the clip at the back of the machine where the airbelt joins (lever it off carefully with a screwdriver)
6. this is where it begins to get interesting. The airbelt is in two parts - the bulky foam strip and a thin material cover. The cover is held in grooves, top and bottom, running all the way round the machine, by two thin plastic strips around which it is wrapped and which just slip into those grooves. The first challenge is to get those strips, and the covering material, out without damaging them. Just prise one end out with a small screwdriver and work your way around the machine - it's more a matter of patience than anything else. (The second challenge is getting it back neatly!) 
7. remove the ends of the foam strip far enough to reveal two plastic clips that hold top and bottom of the body together
8. prise those clips off with a screwdriver.
9. it should now be possible to lift the top cover off. It can be a bit fiddly getting it off over the neck where the hose plugs in, but it does come off.
10. the cable rewind spool is now revealed in all its glory.
11. if you've found my advice helpful so far, here's a final piece... don't try to fit a new cable to the old spool - fit a complete new spool.
12. good luck!

I value feedback, so please remember to rate this response.

May 03, 2009 | Sebo Air Belt K2 Bagged Canister Vacuum

1 Answer

Windows dont move down or up


you have to rebuild (which can be ghetto rigged, but never is reccomended) or replace the window winder units. they can be removed, find the rail which those loose cables came from and remove it, it should be an assembly with the winder motor attached. be sure to remove the bolt that attach to the window mount also. if you can locate the place where the end of the cable is supposed to mount (on a little slider thing) and make a new mount for the end of the cable, then take apart the winder motor spool, and re wind the cable inside the spool, then put it back together, you have ghetto rigged yopur winder. if you cant do all that, you will have to replace the whole unit at a cost of around $120.

Sep 28, 2008 | 1993 Mitsubishi 3000GT

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