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The OE code appears because the machine is not fully drained after 10 minutes to start the spin cycle. The machine cannot spin with water still not drained due to clogged/kinked drain hose, blocked pump filter, or pump not working. Remove the drain hose from where it is installed and drain the water from the machine into a basin that is enough to hold the water. The drain hose or the pump filter is indeed clogged/blocked if the water does not drain/flow by gravity into the basin.
Check to make sure that the drain hose is clear and not kinked. Open the pump filter cover then remove and clean the filter. Reach in the pump impeller with your finger and turn it to check whether it is stuck or not.
Make sure the pump wire harness is snugly connected and intact. Replace the pump if no issue is found with the drain hose, pump filter, impeller, and the wire harness or after all issues are addressed and the fault code still appears.
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Motor coupler Spin cycle Siphoning Water-inlet valve Motor coupler
To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.
most new washers have cold water only rinse and spray rinse ck cold water coming into machine during wash if no cold comes in suspect cold side of fill vale not opening ..could be wiring issue or a bad valve
The drain hose needs to be lifted above the high fill level in washer.The easiest way to fix this is take the drain hose (if your drain hose starts from the bottom of machine and goes up)tie or strap it to the back of the washer so it cant sag or drop down and start syphoning the water.Remember the washer will drain out the water if the drain hose is lower than the amount of water in the tub.Thats why your making sure by tieing the drain hose to the highest point before it makes it way to the drain .