I see small circuit board underneath direction buttons .is there anyway to test that .sometimes works but far and few between ,been putting off fixing for 10years.can anyone help? would be most appreciated.
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Re: title trays will not flip on Wurlitzer1015
It is more likely to be the keyboard button. It's a bit tricky to take apart but it works on capacitance across a gap on the keyboard pcb so if you can clean both surfaces of pcb and button pad it sometimes improves it.
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Most likely the directional PCA has popped out of its housing. There is a small circuit board underneath the quick start button that works the controls. They are notorious for coming loose. If board is still in the housing then then speed down sector of the board may be bad and it will need to be replaced
OK I am not an expert but I have spent the last two weeks learning about and fixing my dishwasher! Hopefully I can save you a headache. Try the following:
* Flip the switch off and on in your breaker/circuit box. May reset your washer. * If that doesn't work, try running diagnostic/reset cycles by pressing heated dry -normal- heated dry or heated dry-sanitize-heated dry in sequence. If the cycles run fine, you will rule out a power, latch, motor/drying issue. It also may (hopefully) reset your system. * If normal function still does not resume, make sure your power (from the breaker box) is turned off and unscrew (with a star-shaped screwdriver bit - check your car emergency kit/toolbox, you may find you have it) and open the front button control panel and check all connections. Try carefully unplugging and replugging wires and look for any corrosion/moisture on the circuit board. * If that does not work, test the circuit board by unplugging the green ribbon cable from the control panel, reassembling with the ribbon cable unplugged, flipping your circuit back on and then closing the dishwasher door. If the drain motor runs, it will show you that there is still some function with the circuit board. Although it doesn't rule out the circuit board completely, it will point to a most likely control (button) panel issue and try replacing that. If the drain test does NOT run, it may be the circuit board that needs to be replaced.
OK I am not an expert but I have spent the last two weeks learning about
and fixing my dishwasher! Hopefully I can save you a headache. Try the
* Flip the switch off and on in your breaker/circuit box. May reset your washer. *
If that doesn't work, try running diagnostic/reset cycles by pressing
heated dry -normal- heated dry or heated dry-sanitize-heated dry in
sequence. If the cycles run fine, you will rule out a power, latch,
motor/drying issue. It also may (hopefully) reset your system. * If
normal function still does not resume, make sure your power (from the
breaker box) is turned off and unscrew (with a star-shaped screwdriver
bit - check your car emergency kit/toolbox, you may find you have it)
and open the front button control panel and check all connections. Try
carefully unplugging and replugging wires and look for any
corrosion/moisture on the circuit board. * If that does not work,
test the circuit board by unplugging the green ribbon cable from the
control panel, reassembling with the ribbon cable unplugged, flipping
your circuit back on and then closing the dishwasher door. If the drain
motor runs, it will show you that there is still some function with the
circuit board. Although it doesn't rule out the circuit board
completely, it will point to a most likely control (button) panel issue
and try replacing that. If the drain test does NOT run, it may be the
circuit board that needs to be replaced.
There may be some additional instructions specific to your model hidden in an envelope behind the kickplate of your washer.
Sounds like you have a shorted out circuit card. Try replacing the batteries first to see if the power returns to the keys. If that doesn't work, you will find it cheaper to find a replacement calculator vs sending it to an authorized factory repair center. Hope this helps.
Could be a few things: Try poking a small screwdriver in the bottom of the tray to manually lift the paper. If that works, you probably have a gear problem - see the post titled, "Status light is red and paper light blinking"
If that doesn't work, put some paper in the MP tray and test print (hit GO button 3x). If that works, you have a problem with the paper pickup and might require some parts (hard to find). Inside the drive unit (frame L) is a little circuit board (relay front PCB). As you try to print, check voltage on pins 1-2, it should cycle to activate a solenoid. If you get a voltage cycle, your solenoid is probably bad - if not, your relay front PCB is probably bad.
- fuse inside the three prong power plug connector on the sub (if there is one) - see if it has a fuse compartment built in - it should slide out kind of like a small drawer - sometimes it has also a separate place for a spare plug in there - the fuses used are of glass type.
- fuse mounted into a fuse holder soldered onto the circuit board - glass type fuse
- fuse soldered directly onto the circuit board - sometimes the type used is glass (it may have a heatshrink tube around it so it doesn't look like a fuse at a first glance, also there are other types of fuses that can be soldered directly onto the board - these are in the form of a small vertical cylinder, usually of a dark reddish colour with white / yellow print on the top - they look somewhat alike to small electrolytic capacitors, but are encased in dark red plastic with the pins located directly underneath the fuse.
There are two places you can load the paper. There is a small pull out tray underneath the flap where the paper prints out in front. Lift the flap then pull out the tray using the handle cutout at the very bottom of the printer. There is a back feed location as well, if it's not up already, flip up the back feed flap. There are two finger holds on either side of it on the back of the top of the machine. flip it up and put the paper in there.
It is important to select which to print from as well. On the left side of the button console there is an indicator light on the drawn picture of the printer. Make sure the indicator light is on the place where you have your desired paper. If not push the "feed switch" button next to it.
Rowe Ami jukeboxes are prone to dry joints (called cold joints in the USA), this is cracking around the soldered connection pins that connect the wiringing to the circuit boards. If you can solder correctly then I would advise you to check all of the boards for cracking around any of the pins on the boards. So check out the following:-
Power supply board
I would check out the Keyboard/Display the display board controls the title flip buttons.
I have seen a nuber of brand new display units for sale in the USA on Ebay for very little money.
When these were first made they were an arm and a leg. If you bought the combined unit that was put into the HML hideaways you could refit into your jukebox.
If You are not good at soldering then my advice would be send the boards to a Rowe Ami specialist for testing/repair.
It may sound simplistic but many times when a remote starts to act flaky, replacing the battery (or batteries) will cure the problem.
They don't last forever.
Another possibility is that the Closed Caption feature has been set in the menu so a check of basic settings might help.
Finally, the contacts in most remotes consist of small carbon buttons and fixed contacts on a printed circuit board.
The board contacts were once flashed with gold plating but - well, we know what has happened to gold lately, so manufacturers have pretty much ceased to use gold and some don't even bother with nickle now but just depend on the tin-lead solder to last beyond the warranty.
This latter material does oxidize over time and becomes a lot less conductive.
If you can crack the case (sometimes there is a concealed screw or two- be careful) it can help to gently run a pencil eraser over the board contacts to restore their shiny surface.
Solution for Pioneer DV-C36 Multi Disk DVD player - tray door will not stay open.
My player would open the disk tray when the open button was press but when the tray was fully open it would retract back into the unit leaving no time to change or load disks. I found a poor connection at the ribbon cable connector was causing this problem. A seven conductor ribbon cable connects the main unit with the travelling tray. A position switch (S21) senses when the tray is fully extended and retracted. On my player pin 1 of the ribbon cable connector on the travelling tray was not making an electrical connection which causes the control system to retract the tray. The fault lies in the connector - the tang was not pressing against the ribbon cable conductor. I was able to desolder the connector and pull the contact out just far enough to reform the tang with fine needle nose pliers. This is very tedious and required an eye loupe for magnification. Tools required: #1 and #2 phillips screwdrivers Soldering and desoldering irons (or other desoldering tools) Fine needle nose pliers.
Remove the tray ribbon cable 1. Remove the cabinet cover - 6 screws. Open the tray. To keep the tray from retracting pull the power cord when the tray is extended. 2. Remove the front bezel from the tray. Gently pry up the bezel by relesing the catches with a small screwdriver. Allow the tray to retract. 3. Remove the front panel - undo large ribbon and wire connections on right, remove screws left and right, release two catch tangs on bottom edge using a small screwdriver on the inside of the unit. 4. Remove the white plastic cover over the laser mechanism ( 2 screws) Remove the disk carrier by removing the center screw. 5. Extend the tray again. When the tray is out the small ribbon cable is visible below the tray. Undo the ribon cable where it attaches to the main unit unit. 6. To slide the tray off the main unit use a small screwdriver to depress the stop catches (2) in the tray. They are molded into the tray. Pull the tray out further then lift up. 7. Flip over the tray and find the small circuit board the ribbon cable goes to. Desolder the motor wires (red and black) and remove the 2 screws holding the circuit board and position switch.
Use a multimeter to confirm there is an open or poor connection in the ribbon cable connector.
Remove the ribon cable and inspect the connector with an eye loupe or other magnification device. On my player contact #1 was not positioned properly to press against the ribbon cable conductor. You can either replace the connector or repair it. Warning: repairing the connector may damage it. To repair the contact desolder the connector from the circuit board. Bend the circuit board prong straight and push it into the body of the connector which will extend the contact out and the contact can be reformed. Be very gentle. Bending the contact may cause it to break.
Reassembly is the reverse. Don't forget to solder the motor wires with the proper polarity. Red and Black are labeled on the circuit board.