Question about Cutler Hammer Eaton Electical #BD3030 Breaker

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My circuit breaker box has knocked out the power in 2 of my rooms and I need to know how to get the power back on. This happened when i hit the test button. please help.

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Flip the switch one way, then the other to reactivate the breaker after hitting the test button.

Posted on Jul 17, 2010

Testimonial: "THANK YOU !!! Upon following your instructions to flip the switch one way then the other to reactivate the breaker all of my electricity came back on in both the rooms it went out in, whew. Thanks again. Now, if I could just get my lights to work??"

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  • 274 Answers

Both rooms are overloading the breaker,first unplug everything,what is the amp of the breaker,and start adding up the amps in both rooms.Use low watt bulbs,it can be alot of things but this is a start.

Posted on Jul 17, 2010

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Reset M&S mc350a?


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Trips breaker


tripping breaker indicates over load or dead short
it could be from failed start /run capacitors on the compressor unit ( (most likely)or from vermin across the power board
I suggest that you have a technician inspect and quote on repairs

Jul 18, 2015 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

We plugged in a small electric heater in the room with our Vizio plasma tv. All lights everything went out. I hit the breaker and everything came back on except the TV. No power at all. NO money must...


Hey Juuuudd..lol...not beatles...
Plug your tv into another outlet some where in another room and see if it works.

Check your tv owners manual and see if it has a "reset" button.

Usually, if this happens it because of the electric heater.
They tend to pull alot of power and blow power to your fuse box.
IE...if you have a 15 amp breaker and run 20 amps per say through it
it blows....or shuts off the power.....this happens alot at work with people
running heaters, lights etc.

if your problem persists let me know...good luck.

PS....don't run that heater...


Jan 26, 2011 | Televison & Video

1 Answer

Can a circuit breaker fail? There is no power in my daughters room, but the circuit breaker seems to be fine. It doesn't reset or fix the problem.


Make sure to click breaker completely over to one side and then click all the way back to reset.

Yes, breakers go bad.

You can check your breaker in a simple way.

Turn main breaker OFF.
Mark daughter's breaker.
Take cover off breaker box.
The main breaker will still have power on the lugs where big wires connect.
Rest of box will have no power.
Notice that each 120 volt breaker has a wire connected to end of breaker.
Use screwdriver and tighten this wire.
If screw is already tight, then loosen screw and pull wire out, and move wire to another breaker marked with same amperage. For example if daughter's breaker is 20, then move wire to another 20. Now there will be two wires connected to that breaker.
Turn power ON and see if daughter's room is restored.
This set up will work fine until you have time to replace breaker with same brand as marked on breaker box, usually available at home center (if available).

If power is not restored by moving wire, then there is a loose wire inside a junction box located in daughter's room.
Test each receptacle in room to confirm that nothing on that circuit has power.
If some receptacles have power, start opening other receptacle boxes looking for loose wire, especially at the quick-connects where wires stab into back of receptacle device.
If whole circuit is off, then to isolate location of loose wire, start at the ceiling box, and see if there is a loose black or white wire. Most electricians run wire from breaker to the ceiling box, and then other wires spread out from there and go box to box until each box has a black and white wire that connects back to original breaker.

Dec 29, 2010 | Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

The T104p3 timer is getting power but the clock won't turn and the manual switch also doesn't work. we had a power outage, and the timer has not worked since then.


If I understand correctly, your T104 240Volt Intermatic timer worked fine before.
Now the clock will not rotate.
The manual switch doesn't operate the load.

You checked for electricity.
But did you check for 240 Volts across terminals 1 and 3?
It sounds like the circuit breaker is tripped off on one leg so circuit has 120V and tests positive for power, but not 240V.
Reset breaker all the way over and then click breaker back.

Back to the timer.
If you test electricity at terminal 1 to ground and it reads 120V, that means timer is receiving power from one leg of the 240 circuit.
If you test terminal 3 to ground and it reads 120V, that means same as above.
But unless you test for 240V across terminals 1 and 3, the tests above mean nothing.

Let's understand 240V circuit.
You know all single-phase household circuits require two wires to complete the circuit.
Same is true for 120V and 240V circuits >> each needs two wires to complete the circuit.
Inside the main breaker box are 3 busbars.
There are 2 hot busbars and 1 neutral busbar.
120V circuit is complete with 1 hot wire from either hot busbar and 1 neutral from neutral busbar
240V circuit is complete with 1 hot wire from one hot busbar and 1 hot wire from other hot busbar.
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html

The 240V circuit breaker snaps down over both hot busbars, and then 2 wires come out of that breaker and go to 240V appliance, or to T104 timer terminals 1 and 3.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html

If circuit breaker is not delivering on both those hot wires, then all along the way you can test for electricity and test will show 120V but not 240V.
So it appears as though circuit has electricity, but circuit will not operate until both hot wires are available to complete the circuit.

That's why you test for 240Volt across terminals 1 and 3
And also test for 240Volt across both wires at circuit breaker.

Going back to timer.
Unless there was lightning strike that fried insides of timer, but somehow left everything else untouched, the manual override should work if circuit has 240V, and Load (lights, motor, fan) is operable.

A simple test is to move circuit breaker wires to another 240Volt breaker and see if timer works again.
If breaker will not reset, you will have to replace 240 circuit breaker, or add a subpanel if your busbars are burned and broken.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-a-subpanel.html

Dec 18, 2010 | Intermatic & Indoor/Outdoor Rain Tight...

2 Answers

No power to the receptacles on a circuit, the breaker isn't tripped. there are no GFI's


No breakers are tripped and a circuit is dead.

There is a loose wire.

Let me explain how it works. Each 120V breaker has a black wire that leaves breaker box. The black wire is accompanied by a white neutral wire and a bare ground wire. These wires are sheathed in plastic, and altogether they make up a romex cable.

The cable leaves the circuit breaker box and travels to the first junction box. The junction box is a ceiling box that holds light or fan -or- a wall box containing switch or plug. As a general rule, the romex leaves the breaker box and travels all the way to a junction box located right in the area where lights and plugs are located. The romex does not stop at a junction boxes located in other room.

Inside the junction box, the romex splits and goes to the next junction box, and then to the next box, and the next.

So the plugs in one room are all connected together by a single romex cable that started back at the breaker box. And a single romex wire from the breaker box arrived at one of the junction boxes located in immediate vicinity of dead receptacle.

Here's what happened. A wire came loose somewhere between the breaker and the dead receptacles.

The loose wire is probably in a receptacle.

Here's what to do.
1) Breaker first: You can isolate the suspect breaker by identifying all other breakers. Then tighten screw on suspect breaker. Look for white wire and ground wire associated with the romex cable that connects to breaker >> tighten those screws on neutral busbar. Look for burning around suspect breaker. Is there a burning smell indicating breaker is bad?

2) Receptacles Next. Use ordinary tester. Test each receptacle. Receptacle has two rectangular prong holes and one round hole located below other two. The round hole is the ground. Breaker is turned on. Test each rectangular hole to ground. You have to test both prongs to ground.

The loose wire is right there in the vicinity of dead receptacles.

Test one receptacle and then move to next receptacle. At some point the tester will light up. Now click suspect circuit breaker to see if that receptacle is on breaker. Test receptacle with breaker off and breaker on. If that receptacle is on the suspect breaker, then a loose wire is inside that receptacle box >> or inside the next box. Many times, the wires are pushed into 'quick-connects' located on back of receptacle ... wires get loose ... you need a small screwdrive to release quick-connect, and then wrap wire around screw -or- replace receptacle

If none of receptacles show electricity, then loose wire is inside a switch box, or it is inside a ceiling box located in same general area. Check your switches first. Look for quick-connects, or signs of burning. Look for loose wire nut. Plug light into dead receptacle. Pull switch out with wires attaches. Power is on. Move switch around to see if dead receptacles shows electricity. Move to next switch. The loose wire is there somewhere.

Finally the ceiling box. Take down light and see if there is a loose wire inside. Look for signs of heat or burning.

Oct 11, 2010 | Connecticut Electric Square D Packaged...

1 Answer

Need to reset circuit breaker


Hi,

  • 1 Turn off the light switches and unplug appliances in the room that has lost power.
  • 2 Find your circuit breaker box and open the cover.
  • 3 Locate the tripped breaker. Circuit breakers are small, usually horizontal switches labeled by the areas of the house they serve (for example, "kitchen," "bathroom" and so on). The tripped circuit breaker will be in the "off" position or in a middle position between "on" and "off."
  • 4 Reset the breaker by moving it to the full "off" position and then back to "on." That may clear an overload and return power to the room. If the breaker re-trips, you may have too many lamps and appliances plugged into the circuit; a damaged cord or plug; a short circuit in a receptacle, switch or fixture; or faulty wiring.
  • 5 Identify and correct the malfunction before resetting the breaker.



  • Please post your feedback and Vote if the problem resolved as per your satisfaction.

    Sep 25, 2010 | Computers & Internet

    1 Answer

    Pushmatic breaker keeps tripping everytime I hit


    You have it shorted out somewhere along the line. If it is a light switch you are switching, what have you done lately to make this trip? Anything? You might have a bad breaker. You can check it by shutting off the power, pull the wire out of the tripping breaker, put it in another breaker, turn the power back on, switch the breaker on, then hit the switch and see what happens. If it snaps off, it is not the breaker, but the switch, the wires in the box, or the lights, or something along the line, you will have to check each one. New construction has made all lights and all receptacles separate, so if your house is old, you might be looking at receptacles too. Check anything plugged in to an outlet, make sure there is nothing shorting. Hope this helps.

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    1 Answer

    I live in a home where we had a switch go bad in our boys room. When we replaced the switch my daugters switch would not work. We have three wires coming out of both wall outlets plus a ground. I got a...


    If the problem arose after you replaced the switch in your boys room, that is where I would go to first in my attempt to troubleshoot the problem. After you pull the switch out, I would leave the switch in the off position, and check that 2 of the three wires in that box are receiving power.
    If there is only a single with power then that is the power coming into the switch box, and it is very likely that one of the other wires is intended to feed beyond. A good way to check this would be to turn the switch on and see if your daughter's switch is getting power when that switch is on. If this is the case, the next part becomes a little tricky.
    1. turn the switch in your boys room off
    2. disconnect only one wire from the 2 that do not have constant power.
    3. turn on switch, if light for the room turns on, then attached wire is switch leg for the light, and disconnected wire is power out of rest of the circuit.
    CAUTION: turn off power at breaker before continuing
    4. once you know which is the switch leg, and which is the out for the rest of the circuit, junction the in wire with the out wire, and attach a single wire to this junction twisting all three together, put a wirenut on the junction, and re-attach to switch.
    once this is done, you should be able to turn the breaker back on.

    If the above instructions are not needed, it is possible that the switch is fed from a plug in the room, and that a connection on the plug could have gone bad. In this case, you should once again, turn the breaker for the room off first.
    1. pull out the plug
    2. ensure that all wires are wrapped around the screws, not pushed into the holes in the back of the device. Black to brass, White to silver, Ground to green
    3. put the outlet back and turn the breaker back on
    4. test the switch

    I hope that this proves helpfull and resolves your problem. please let me know if you have any questions

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