Question about Pass & Seymour #690IGCC6 15A Ivory DPLX Switches

1 Answer

Our switch for the ceiling fan burned out today. Instead of getting the same type of switch (rotary knob with push on/off) I bought a Pass & Seymour combination toggle switch (dual on/off toggle switches). My goal is to have one switch on the fan and the other for the light. When we wired it up 1 switch operates both the fan and light and is also tied into out exhaust hood over the stove. The other switch is tied into the downstairs bathroom. Inside the switch housing there are 3 white wires tied off together not being used. On the back of the old switch there was the ground wire and 3 black wires: 1 black wire (from house) was connected to 1 black wire on switch and the other 2 black wires (from house) were connected to 1 other black wire on the switch. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Posted by Anonymous on

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  • Pass & Seymour Master
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The wire to the ceiling fan are meant to send voltage to the fixture only and are not usually wired to control both the light and the fan independently. In order to do that, you may have to pull another set of wires to the switch box and then connect them to the light circuit in the box where the fan is. In regards to the other wiring that you mentioned, it makes no sense that the wires go to the stove fan and the bathroom fan unless those wires are source wires that carry the incoming voltage.

Posted on Mar 17, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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jyackle5
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SOURCE: I have a 1-pole toggle

1st thing you need to do is wire nut the white wires together. Then you need to wire nut the ground wires together. Once that is done then you can push them into the box.

Now you will need to find the hot wire that is the one that supplies the power to the box. To do this you need a tester like on the link below.

Once you have found the hot wire you will need to attach it to the switch the side that has the gold screws.

The other two wires takes the power to the fan and light. You will need to find the one that runs the light and put it on the top screw on the other side of the switch. The last wire you will put on the bottom screw on the same side of the switch that you put the light wire.

http://www.homedepot.com/buy/electrical/electrical-tools-accessories/klein-tools/non-contact-voltage-tester-93406.html


Good Luck and please accept the answer

Posted on Oct 06, 2010

SOURCE: I am using a Pass & Seymour illuminated three

I answer questions for free
I work with timers and electrical devices.

If I understand correctly you replaced a 3-way switch.
The new switch has 3 screws (plus green ground screw)
You put the Hot wire on the dark screw correctly.
You attached the two travelers to the brass-colored screws.
The two travelers are red and white.
You connected the ground wire to the green screw.
The ground wire is not supposed to be connected to with the white wire, and I doubt it is because that would trip the breaker.
The lights are working correctly.

If you followed the formula above to the letter, then the lighted switch should light up.
My best guess at this point is that the lighted switch is defective.
The Pass and Seymour webpage does not have manuals to look at like Leviton and Lutron products.
As a result I can't pour over a manual and put a magnifying glass on the wiring and wording to see if there is something we've missed.
But it's just not that complicated ... the light switch should light up.

At this point, I suggest you re-read the instructions (just in case?) and then swap the switch for another one ... or get different brand.

Posted on Nov 04, 2010

SOURCE: I have the 691pass&seymour

Thank you for the clear description of your P&S device.
You need to test your wires.
We are looking for the Hot, Neutral and Load wires.

Your old switch has two wires.
One of these wires is the Hot (I suspect 100% that the wire that comes from the other wires that are twisted together is the Hot)
The other is Load

Separate the old switch wires and turn on power.
Use ordinary tester.
Test each wire to metal box and see if the box is grounded.
Tester will light up on Hot wire.
You can also test each of the old switch wires to the other wires in the box.

1) Hot: Once you determine the Hot wire, this wire will connect to the P&S device:
Hot connects to the brass screws on right side, just as you said ... and these screws are on opposite side from silver screw.

2) Load: The wire to Load connects to brass screw on top left, which is on same side of device as silver screw. This screw sits opposite the P&S switch.

The last wire is the Neutral.
Test your Hot wire to all other wires in the box.
When the tester lights up, that is the Neutral

3) Neutral connects to silver screw which will complete the circuit to the P&S receptacle.

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-select-right-wire-nut.html

Posted on Nov 09, 2010

SOURCE: I'm want to install a

More information is needed.
Unknown what wiring device was there before, and which wires were connected to which screw terminals.
Wire color is not as important as knowing what wire is for.
If both white wires were connected together before, then they need to be put back same way.
Separate wires. Turn on power. Test each wire to bare ground. Tester lights up on Hot wire. The Hot wire is usually black.
In back of box are white wires twisted together and covered with wire nuts. These are the neutrals.
Test black hot wire to neutrals and tester will light up. If box does not have neutrals, then device cannot be installed to code.

Open following link for illustration of wiring:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-combination-switch-outlet.html

Posted on Aug 01, 2011

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