Question about Kenmore Dryers

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How can I determine if my ignitor has gone bad? I had a bad rainstorm and the exhaust vent / tube ingested about 1/4 of a gallon of water. It may have been more, but about 1/4 gallon is what I removed from the vent tubing. Dryer acts normal except no heat. Gas line is good, and active. I've got a VOM. Thanks - Don

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  • dfmcintyre Jul 23, 2010

    Salde -

    Got access to the bottom area this am. Cleaned out all the lint. Cleaned the window on a rectangular slot along the burner tube that has what looks like a little photocell.

    Unscrewed and removed the ignitor from the burner tube and bypassed the door switch. Turned the dryer on briefly on (10sec). The ignitor will get red hot. Turn off. No smell of gas.

    Repeated test with (what I'd call) the photocell shunted, negative results, no gas.

    Gas is good to the house for the grill and stove.

    What sort of reading should I get on the thermal switches, or should I just test by shunting them?

    Thanks - Don (gone for weekend mode)

  • dfmcintyre Jul 25, 2010

    Have both the three and two pronged coils off.

    According to the parts list that came with the dryer, the part numbers for the two terminal coil is PN 694540, and the three terminal one is PN 694539.

    Can a gas valve itself go bad?

    Thanks - Don

  • dfmcintyre Jul 25, 2010

    Additional info...

    Is there a way to test each coil? According to one source, their about $30 ea.

    Thanks - Don

  • dfmcintyre Jul 31, 2010

    Salde -

    Ok, here's what I've tested; All three fuses and the flame sensor I get resistance with the meter. I unplugged the coil connectors and get AC from two of the three pins in the three pin one, and no AC in the two pin one.

    From the design of the coil bracket, it looks like when the coil(s) energize, the pins are pushed in? When I start the motor there is no movement either in or out from either pin that the coils surround.

    Unplugged the flame sensor, the ignitor stays off. Plug the sensor, ignitor glows, no movement from either or both coil.

    Slight correction, dryer was not underwater, i.e. not a flooded basement condition. No rust in motor or housing. I think about less then 1/4 gallon in the vent tubing. Lotta lint around the motor that got vac'ed.

    One more observation. Ran unit with coils off of the pins, and plugged in. Noticed that the 3 pin coil would energize and felt magnetic pull on screwdriver inserted into hole. Got pretty hot too. No pull or heat from the 2 pin coil.

    If the pin movement is in, should I be able to push the pins in manually?




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Pull the wire connector off and check for continuity,if you get a reading it's good if the 1 stays there on your meter it's bad,also check the sensor and the thermal fuse located on the blower wheel housing,hopefully it will be one of these,we had bad rain here in the boston area and most of the dryers i worked on after were bad motors but if your dryer starts that's a good sign,let me know how you make out

Posted on Jul 17, 2010

  • 4 more comments 
  • Sal De Jul 23, 2010

    that's the sensor,if the ignitor is glowing the sensor is good,you either have bad gas coils or a bad gas valve,i'd change out the coils first 279834 is the part number for the coils,just take out the two phillips screws,remove the cover and change out the gas coils.let me know how you make out

  • Sal De Jul 25, 2010

    the part number i gave you is for both the coils,it comes as a kit and they will work in your dryer 279834.don't buy them separately.yes the gas valve could be bad,i've seen very few valves that go bad,try the coils,also with a meter read out the thermal fuse,pull one of the wires off and read it out,it's on the blower wheel housing,most likely it's a 3392519,it's white and long,or if it's the round fuse it probably is a 3390719,just put it on like 20k,touch the leads together to check the meter,if the number 1 stays there the part is bad,if you get any other reading the part is good,do the same with the ignitor,most likely these parts are good because the ignitor is glowing but check them anyway,if they are good change out the coils,a few times i tapped on the gas valve and the gas would come through for a few minutes you can try that too,also if you have a shop vac blow into the tube where the gas comes out or stick a paperclip in there,i actually found a spider web in there and the gas wouldn't come out,it blocked the orifice,hopefully it's just the coils they are like 30 bucks for both in that kit

  • Sal De Jul 25, 2010

    also this dryer was under water,anything could have plugged up the orifice where the gas comes out of the valve,could have rusted's hard to figure out what part is good or bad with water damage,you can fix one thing and then something else can go right after that,if it is the valve take a good look at the dryer,check the motor,see how much rust is starting to show up,you might want to change out the dryer instead of sinking money into it and then something else goes wrong from the water damage,good luck,let me know how you make out,if you need more help let me know and send the model number

  • Sal De Jul 31, 2010

    stop touching the senor and the ignitor,if it's glowing then we know everything is working except for the gas coils or the gas valve,the coil part number is 279834,i helped someone else out and they got both the coils from sears with the number i gave you for 22 bucks,change out the coils,if that doesn't do it then you have a bad gas valve.

  • dfmcintyre Aug 20, 2010

    Salde -

    Sorry for the delay. Vacation, got back and installed the two new coils from Sears last weekend. That seemed to do the trick. Put back together and it runs fine. Thanks again for the help!


  • Sal De Aug 20, 2010

    fantastic!!! glad i could help



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