Question about LG DLE2532W Electric Dryer

3 Answers

Runs but no heat

My LG DWE2532W Dryer runs but doesNot heat. how do you determine if the heater unit is bad the control unit or a tripped thermal Limiter? ( where is the thermal limiter and the heater?

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  • LMGeorge Apr 21, 2008

    I am having the same problem, please let me know what you find out.

  • mr5723m Apr 25, 2008

    I had a repair man come. He determined that the thermal fuse is bad but said you need to replace the thermostat at the same time. He called in and parts department said those two parts can't be purchased separately, you have to purchase the whole heater which comes with those two parts on it. They won't be here until Tuesday

  • Anonymous May 07, 2008

    You can buy the fuse & the thermostat as a kit. Call LG directly to order parts, around $16.00. Service man charged me $60.00. Pop the top up. Take the 2 screws out that hold the front to the side on top of the front panel, open the dryer door and take out the 2 screws below the opening, unplug wire that attaches to front panel, take the front panel off, release the drive belt from the pulley below the drum,left the drum out and you can see the heater unit that has both the fuse and the thermostat. Replace them both. Clean dryer lint tray and vent. Replace the drum and connect the drive belt around drive pulley under drum. Put front panel back in place, plug wire back in place, put 2 screws in below drum opeining, put 2 screws in on top of front panel. Put top back down. Test dryer for heat

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I have replaced TH2 in my dle0322 about 6 times now. It never lasts more than a month. What could be causing this?

Posted on Jul 10, 2008

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  • pjigar64
    pjigar64 Mar 29, 2012

    Same here, 3 so far. But question is why? I have already cleaned my vent all the way using a rotating brush. Air flow should be good now. Next I am going to replace both TH2 and TH3, see if that helps.

  • pjigar64
    pjigar64 Mar 29, 2012

    By the way, my TH2 has been lasting about 6 months.

  • pjigar64
    pjigar64 Apr 04, 2012

    http://www.fixya.com/support/t1105064-el... says that thermistor might be an issue. The thermistor (6323EL2001B) TH1 is the first line of defense for overheating. This auto-resettable thermistor supposed to cut off the blower and stop the dryer all together once the cloths are dry enough. TH1 cutoff is 85 F. I am going to try and replace TH1 as well this time and see how it goes.

  • pjigar64
    pjigar64 Apr 04, 2012

    Correction: The thermistor does not control blower circuit. It is blower thermostat (6931EL3002A ) TH1. I am going to replace both thermistor and blower thermostat to call it a day!

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You can get the thermostats individually. High limit is part number 6931EL3001E and the safety is 6931EL3003D

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Posted on Jun 03, 2008

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Make sure to have the technician check the exhaust vent if it is restricted when replacing the heater.  Usually, excess heat will build up if the vent is restricted or plugged causing the thermal fuse to trip.

Posted on May 02, 2008

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2 Answers

Runs but why doesn't it heat?


bad heater or thermostat will be your problem

Aug 24, 2015 | Dryers

2 Answers

Dryer is a Kenmore 70 Series Model # 110.64732400. Drum is rotating, but there is no heat


If the Thermal Fuse were blown, the dryer would not run at all. There is a difference between a THERMAL FUSE and a THERMAL CUT-OUT. Do not get the two confused.

If your dryer runs, but does NOT heat, you have a problem in the heating circuits. Any one of the following could be causing your problem:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out (TCO)
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Improper input line voltage
5. Defective power cord.

The following link gives some advice on how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits are located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand. Just remove the back panel of the dryer for access.

The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed also have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify the parts you need.
Some part numbers you may need:

Heating Element (279838)
TCO/Hi-Limit Thermostat Kit (279816)

NOTE: In many cases the problem is NOT the heating element. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem.

Read through the information I provided and, if you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information is helpful.

Mar 09, 2010 | Dryers

2 Answers

Kenmore dryer model 96281100 runs but don't dry(no heat)


If the Thermal Fuse were blown, the dryer would not run at all. If your dryer runs, but does NOT heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify the parts you need. The heating components are usually listed under the "Bulkhead" section.

NOTE: In many cases the problem is NOT the heating element. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem.

Read through the information I provided and, if you have any questions, please post back with your complete model number (located on a nameplate around the door opening) so I can provide you with better service. I hope you find this information is helpful.

Feb 27, 2010 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

2 Answers

Dryer runs, no heat Whirlpool duet 9250


Most likely, it is the thermostat which controls the heating element. The Bios Thermostat will have two wires connected to a round disc which has a flange and screw holes to hold it next to the blower vent or the center of the drum. Use an ohm meter to see if it open or take it to an appliance parts store to have them check it for you. You may also see a thermal fuse and a high temperature cut-off thermostat which should not read open with an ohm meter. Any open thermostat will prevent the heater element from turning on. The part should be about $25.00.

Feb 15, 2010 | Dryers

2 Answers

Clothes dryer does not heat


If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

All dryers are not constructed the same. However, the Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare.

If you have any questions, please post back with your complete model number (usually located on a nameplate around the door opening) so that I may be able to provide you with better assistance. I hope you find this helpful.

Dec 05, 2009 | Kenmore 400 6943 Dryer

3 Answers

Dryer runs but doesn't get hot what may be the problem?


The following link explains how to troubleshoot an electric dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the washer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

All dryers are not constructed the same. Regardles of location, the Heating Element is located inside the heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace both components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace. All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop around for the best price.

NOTE: If the thermal fuse was blown, the dryer normally will not run at all. Don't become confused with the Thermal Fuse and the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO).

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

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1 Answer

Whirlpool Dryer Does not Heat


The following link explains how to troubleshoot an electric dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the washer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

All dryers are not constructed the same. Regardles of location, the Heating Element is located inside the heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace both components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace. All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop around for the best price.

NOTE: If the thermal fuse was blown, the dryer normally will not run at all. Don't become confused with the Thermal Fuse and the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO).

If you have any questions, please let me know. Please inlcude your complete model number (located on a nameplate around the door opening) when asking questions, so that I may be able to provide you with better assistance. I hope you find this information helpful.

Sep 19, 2009 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Can't get my Dryer Mod#11062922100 to heat up. I replaced the Thermal Cutoff parts but no luck. Any ideas?


The following link explains how to troubleshoot a dryer no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the washer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum. Regardless of location, the Heating Element is located inside the heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace both components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace. All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: Do not get confused with the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) and the Thermal Fuse. The TCO is located on the outside of the heater box, while the Thermal Fuse is located on the Blower Fan housing. If the Thermal Fuse were bad, it generally shuts down the whole dryer. The TCO will allow the drum to still turn, but there will be no heat.

Aug 31, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer not heating


skjessie the first thing I always advise is to turn the breakers off then back on. Electric dryers use 240 volts for the heating element only. The motor is 120 volts. If the dryer still isn't heating, then you may have a bad heater, tripped thermal limiter, or bad control unit.

Feb 01, 2008 | LG DLE2532W Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Maytag dryer runs, does not heat


check for continuity in the thermal fuse, also check heating element. make sure you have disconnected the power first. if this is a 220 volt machine make sure you are getting 220 to the machine. if one leg of the voltage has dropped out the motor will run but unit will not heat

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