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Hello, i have a Maytag MDET336AYW dryer, I need to know where all of the wires on the timer switch go. Preferably in a Counter Clockwise direction starting from the top left terminal. Thank you.

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  • thesoups2322 Jul 16, 2010

    I have gone over the wiring diagram for this timer, and yet, it makes no sense, Is there an actual picture of said timer that i can color match off of?

  • thesoups2322 Jul 19, 2010

    I understand the terminal abbreviations, and i have hooked them up in correspondance to their terminals. I was able to take one picture of the switch before my spouse became grab happy with wires. And it shows two individual white/black stripe wires on terminal M, not WH. And terminal WH is blank?!? This makes no sense to me but this was before we removed anything. I put all colors according to where their color codes are, and i put the two white/black wires according to the picture on terminal M. Now, I have no light inside of the dryer, i do have incoming voltage from the wall. I understand how a normally open normally closed switch operates, and i have hooked the 3 wires up according to the prints which proves my knowledge. But like i said, no light, no movement, the dryer makes no attempt to work. I have checked the TWO thermal fuses that i could find and they as well are in working order. Is there something i am overlooking? perhaps another fuse? Thanks for your time and advice.

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3 Answers

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  • Master
  • 949 Answers

Hi,

My name is Phil, I was reading your posting and would like to help. From what you last described I am going to ask a silly question.

You say you have power at the wall outlet. Are you sure you have enough power. What I mean by that is you need to have 240 volts, 2 legs of 120 volts and neutral. The light works off of L2 on your dryer and the motor off of L1.

If you have a volt meter, you should read 120 volts from either leg to neutral and 240 volts from side to side of the outlet.

Posted on Jul 19, 2010

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  • Dryers Master
  • 8,220 Answers

Your wiring diagram

Wow this one does not have that many terminals. Black wire goes to one side of the timer motor, pink or pink and white wire goes to PK, Red wire to the RD,terminal, gray wire goes to GY orange wire to OR terminal Yellow wire goes to YL:

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/frame_diagram.aspx?diagram_id=1340516&pkw_=basket&model_id=5174209&NewWindow=1


If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Posted on Jul 16, 2010

  • thesoups2322 Jul 19, 2010

    Sir,

    I understand the terminal abbreviations, and i have hooked them up in correspondance to their terminals. I was able to take one picture of the switch before my spouse became grab happy with wires. And it shows two individual white/black stripe wires on terminal M, not WH. And terminal WH is blank?!? This makes no sense to me but this was before we removed anything. I put all colors according to where their color codes are, and i put the two white/black wires according to the picture on terminal M. Now, I have no light inside of the dryer, i do have incoming voltage from the wall. I understand how a normally open normally closed switch operates, and i have hooked the 3 wires up according to the prints which proves my knowledge. But like i said, no light, no movement, the dryer makes no attempt to work. I have checked the TWO thermal fuses that i could find and they as well are in working order. Is there something i am overlooking? perhaps another fuse? Thanks for your time and advice.

  • Dan Webster
    Dan Webster Jul 20, 2010

    Show a picture

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  • Master
  • 6,784 Answers

HI. The only way to do this correctly is to follow the wring diagram. This is a complete diagram. Each wire is color labeled. Example: BK= Black, OR= Orange, PK=Pink, GY= Gray, RD=Red and WH=White. Click Here to be directed to the wiring diagram for the timer and other components.

Posted on Jul 16, 2010

  • 6 more comments 
  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jul 16, 2010

    YL=Yellow
    BU=Blue


  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jul 16, 2010

    PU=Purple

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jul 16, 2010

    No, there are not color picture of this device. The wiring diagrams are standard to most techs......


    wow....


  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jul 16, 2010

    RE:

    No, there are no color pictures of this device. The wiring diagrams are
    standard to most techs......



    wow....

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jul 16, 2010

    I clearly posted the color legend and there definitions... Are you saying that you cant read the color definitions?

    Its quite simple. BK= BLACK PU=PURPLE etc...........


  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jul 16, 2010

    PIC




  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jul 19, 2010

    The door switch has failed. Use my procedure to confirm:


    The door switch may be accessible without removing the front panel or cabinet. The switch is located in the front panel of the dryer, around the perimeter of the door opening. Inspect the switch to determine if it can be popped out or accessed by removing a fastening screw. If it cannot be accessed from the front, it will be necessary to open the dryer cabinet. When reaching into the dryer be careful of sharp edges on the cabinet and interior supports.

    Access varies by model, if your dryer has a lower front panel (kick plate) start there. It should lift up and off or it may be held in place with a few screws or snaps; it may also have a catch at the edges or center gap between the kick panel and main panel. To release the catch, push a putty knife, wrapped with masking tape, into the gap and push back the catch. The next easiest access point is the rear panel. The rear access panel is held in place with several screws along the outer edges. The last resort method of access is the removal of the entire front panel. The front panel supports the front of the drum and so removal is more difficult. Front panel removal varies. In general, access is gained by lifting the top (remove the lint trap screws first), removing the screws that secure the front panel, and detaching the panel from the drum.

    Locate the door switch, it typically has two wires connected to it. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

    Use a multimeter to test for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. For a two wire switch, touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the switch, the reading should change to zero.

    If the switch does not test as described, it should be replaced.



  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Jul 19, 2010

    Your new door switch will be quite different. It will have three terminals, not 2. Replacing your failed door switch will correct your problems.

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