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I want to adjust the hi and low water temp limits for my oil hot water boiler; I have a Honeywell L7224 aquastat but I cannot find any temperature indicators; how can I do this?

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  • bunch5 Apr 22, 2008

    I also had just found the Honeywell instructions on-line; it worked well; thanks for the follow-up!

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To enter the adjustment mode, press the UP, DOWN, and I buttons simultaneously for three seconds. Press the I button until the feature requiring adjustment is displayed:
• HL —High Limit.
• LL— Low Limit.
• Ldf —Low Limit differential.
Then press the UP and/or DOWN buttons to move the set point to
the desired value. After 60 seconds without any button inputs, the
control will automatically return to the READ mode.

(copied from honeywell's instructions)

to clarify the differential is cut in minus the cut out.
Hope i can be some help to you.

Posted on Apr 21, 2008

  • Alexander  Figueroa
    Alexander Figueroa Apr 22, 2008

    glad to hear that the advice worked!!!

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Wickes 102 combi boiler constantly loosing water pressure


It sounds like your thermostat could be the problem. Have you noticed the boiler cutting off at all, or does it run continuously until it goes out on low water?

You stated, "when boiler is on", so I am wondering how you get the boiler on. If your boiler is controlled by a thermostat, you need to check it for a cold draft possibly from behind the thermostat in the wall where the wires come through. The thermostat should never be on an outside wall. The thermostat could be defective.

An aquastat can also control your boiler. If you have an aquastat, check the setting, typically 175 - 180 degrees. You should also have a "high limit" which should be set at 210 - 220. Some people run that high side limit higher; not a good idea - defeats the purpose. If the aquastat is set too high, the boiler will operate too hot and the problem you have will occur.

"pressure rises and pressure relief valve opens" This could mean that your pressure switch is prematurely venting. Check boiler temperature to see exactly at what temperature the T&P valve purges. If it blows off below the high side setting, either adjust or replace. The T&P valves are usually not adjustable. That blow off temperature is stamped on the head of the valve. So, if it discharges too soon, replace it.

Have you actually seen evidence thgat the T&P valve is opening? You may have a bad bladder in your expansion tank and your system may have air in it. Your boiler should have 12 psi when cold and 20 - 22 psi when operating. Check your boiler pressure guage.

"
this eventually drops below the minimum operating pressure" Technically, there is set point for a NO MINIMUM OPERATING PRESSURE. That is a function of the amount of water in the boiler. If the T&P is blowing off, it will vent water from the boiler and the boiler pressure will go down. There is a minimum operating TEMPERATURE.

Your boiler could be low on water. You will have to manually fill the boiler. Be careful of thermal shock to the boiler. Feel the piping, and fill only when the circulator is running. Make sure the water is not going directly into the boiler. The supply water should go into the circulating supply side which feeds the radiators, radiant floor, or base board circuits.

All this will adversely affect your hot water. The heat exchanger for the potable hot water may have scale build up in it. Using the hot water keeps the boiler running, and a scaled heat exchanger will give you cooler hot water and the boiler keeps running. If this is a problem, you will need to replace the heat exchanger. A better idea is to not use the boiler for your domestic hot water. Why run the boiler in the summer?

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difficult to say just where the temperature control is on your system. it will likely be an immersion type control located some on or near the boiler. it should have a temperature range scale on it.

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Want to raise the water temp


Stand alone water heaters have temperature controls in different locations.

11_23_2012_12_50_47_pm.jpg
Most residential electric water heaters operate on 240 volts. Please, shut off power first whenever you need open or remove panels for adjustments or servicing.

"Traditional" electric water heaters have them behind removable panels - like the top and bottom gray panel on the water heaters on the right side of the photo. Both panels have adjustable controls behind them and both should be adjusted to the same setting.

Some newer electric water heaters use electronic controls. These may be accessible without removing panels and even have digital displays. Others have controls that are located on the top of the heater - behind a panel. Electronically controlled water heaters may or may not need to be powered on when making adjustments. Check your manual if in doubt.

Gas (propane & natural gas) type water heaters have the temperature control on the gas valve. There are often two controls on the valve, one for the pilot (off, light and on positions) and a second for temperature adjustment.

A tankless water heater built into your home's furnace is controlled by an "aquastat". An aquastat is a fancy term for a thermostat to control water temperature. A typical aquastat is mounted directly on or very near the furnace and looks like this:

11_23_2012_1_08_47_pm.jpg
Inside, are several temperature settings. Here's a photo of the interior of the Honeywell aquastat:


11_23_2012_1_12_16_pm.jpg
The Hi dial should never be set to a value lower than the Lo dial. "Safe" settings are Hi = 180, Lo = 160 and Diferential (above "Lo") = 10. You'll need to tweak these up a bit to make water hotter. You should read more about settings for these aquastats here. Skip down to the section titled "What Settings To Use on a Heating Boiler Aquastat Combination Control"

I hope this helps & good luck!

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Warning! Can cause electrical shock! Here is the instruction manual
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