Question about Samsung Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Sounds like the water seal is damaged and the leaking water has damaged the top bearing which is just below the water seal. You will need to have the hub & seal kit replaced.
Posted on Oct 31, 2007
Okay...I asked you a question in your other posting before I saw this one. This is a common symptom of a defective lid switch. If you try opening and closing the lid and do not hear a distinctive "clicking" sound, your lid switch may need to be replaced. Some lid switches are located on the right-hand side of the lid opening with a small slot. It is activated by a plunger on the lid itself. Make sure the plunger is not broken off. This will also keep the switch from not working. On some model washers the lid switch is located on the left-hand side, in the rear, mounted under the casing near the lid hinge. It is activated by a rod on the lid. Sometimes the rod can be adjusted if it is not making good contact with the switch. In either case, if the switch is not activated, it will allow the washer to fill and agitate, but will not start the rinse or drain cycles. If you wish to attempt the repair yourself, the switch costs about $35 and is fairly simple to replace if you follow the steps below:
First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. I believe your washer has release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. Or, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:
1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.
2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.
3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.
You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame. Just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job.
Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:
1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.
2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.
3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle and close the console.
I hope you find this helpful. If you have any questions please let me know by posting comments.
Posted on Feb 11, 2008
sorry to hear about the problem it will be your motor or module try online for recon both these parts are prone to go on bekos
Posted on Jun 14, 2008
Sounds like your cold water valve is not opening. If you are handy with a Multimeter check the selector switch that you use to set your cold water for good continuity when you activate it. You should have a good steady reading on the meter. If the meter is fluctuating or has no reading at all the switch is bad. If the switch checks out good, check to see if there is voltage to the cold water valve terminals when the machine is calling for cold water. If there is no voltage, you will have to locate the relay or source that supplies this voltage and replace it. If there is voltage the valve is faulty and needs to be replaced.
I hope I helped you today.
Posted on Mar 26, 2009
SOURCE: Washer not cleaning clothes
The filter on your pump is probably clogged with lint and stuff. You have to remove the bottom front panel, 3 torx screws underneath. The panel will drop and come off. Drain off the excess water from the drain pipe you see. The white filter cover is right in front. Get yourself a good plastic bag to collect water. Unscrew the filter cover and twist the filter out. Clean out all the stuff and put it back in carefully.
On some models the filter is located ‘inside’ the big hose from the bottom of the tub. This takes more time to clean.
Next run your washer with 2 cups of bleach, hot water. After it starts agitating stop the washer & let it remain for 2 hours. Then continue the wash.
Try using powders for 'front loaders'
Posted on Apr 05, 2009
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