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Re: Mitsubishi WD-6267 DLP problem

A while back, I had posed the following problem: That my Mitsubishi WD-62627 DLP projection TV goes black & white after it's warmed up. The solution offered was that there was most likely a problem with ICs. What I've found since then is that if the back of the set is removed and a small floor-type fan is placed against the chassis blowing a steady stream of air, that the problem doesn't occur. I have just received a Mitsubishi service manual for this set but it's sparse on troubleshooting. Sounds like a component that's getting too warm, such as a capacitor, transistor, IC, etc. Based on what I've described, does anyone know which PCB's and/or components I should be looking at? Could it be a problem with the light engine itself?



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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Have two Mitsubishi WD-62627 HDTV's.

The first one sounds like one of two bad boards. If you get color here always(component input (Y Pr Pb) then it's the terminal 2 PCB, and if not it could be FMT board. Either way you would need further checks to make sure. For the other set i would need email for instructions, because of broad range of problems!

Posted on Mar 12, 2008

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SOURCE: Re: Mitsubishi WD62627 projection TV issues

Not off hand, but you can call them and ask for the part number and order it at the same time


Let me know if you need any other help

Posted on Mar 26, 2008

  • 8617 Answers

SOURCE: green convergence, bad IC?

C8011 could definately cause the problem you are indicating as one side of that capacitor is tied to the postive feed for Red horizontal in IC8001 ( STK392-560) and the other is tied to the Green vertical return . I would replace that along with the IC as the IC is sure to be weakend if that capacitor has shorted. Let me know if you need further assistance.

Posted on Apr 08, 2008

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I found the solution to my problem and it has worked on two different Mitsubishi WD-62627 DLP rear projection HDTV's both with the same problem of the pictures going black and white after the sets had been on for about 20~30 minutes. I suspected that the color wheel might be the culprit. I removed the color wheels from both light engines and flushed out the back sides (where you can see the pulse coils in the back of the color wheel motor in the picture below) liberally with Ronsonal lighter fluid, which is basically naptha. I used lighter fluid for years in camera repair to flush out micromotors that would slow down or bind over time. The Ronsonol evaporates quickly and does not leave a harmful residue, however, I blew each one out with compressed air to make sure there was no liquid left. I then cleaned the glass on the color wheels, installed them back into the light engines, and installed the light engines back into the TV's. Both have been working fine for several weeks now. I do not claim this technique as a panacea but it has worked for me.



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Have two Mitsubishi WD-62627 HDTV's. One will go all black and white after unit has been on a while; shutting it off and turning it back on will correct problem for a while. The second WD-62627 has seven...

The first one sounds like one of two bad boards. If you get color here always(component input (Y Pr Pb) then it's the terminal 2 PCB, and if not it could be FMT board. Either way you would need further checks to make sure. For the other set i would need email for instructions, because of broad range of problems!

Mar 12, 2008 | Televison & Video

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