Question about Garland Convection Oven - MCO-NAT Gas

2 Answers

Sometimes works sometimes not

Garland Master Series 200 Thermostat light will briefly light, you hear the gas valve open but then the light goes out without lighting the burners

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  • doug_pierce Jul 16, 2010

    sometimes the burners come on no trouble but temperature light flashes on and off

  • doug_pierce Jul 16, 2010

    Sounds like that maybe the answer. I will order the parts & see what happens. Thanks

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  • Master
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I'm not familiar with this unit, but if it has a thermocouple, replace it. The thermocouple is the sparkler looking metal rod that gets heated by the pilot light. When they go bad, they partially work, but have to be good to allow the gas valve to open. That's their job- open with a flame, close without one. Good luck, and hope this helps.

Posted on Jul 16, 2010

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  • Master
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I would advise to remove the top panel and, using a needle, clean all holes in the burner.

you can also find the diagram int he below mentioned website:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?diagram_id=859957&&model_id=24091#d859957

Posted on Jul 16, 2010

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Oven not Working or Oven not Heating


If your gas oven is not working or not heating then you need to check this out. Today’s gas ovens are not often do not use the simple thermocouple with a pilot to prove the flame anymore. They have a much more complicated method of lighting the burner and proving the flame.

The use of electric igniters has become the standard for many ovens today. The thermostat calls for heat, power is supplied to the igniter, then after a certain amperage draw on the igniter, the gas valve is energizes to open and allow gas to flow starting the flame. As long as the amperage draw on the igniter is high enough then the gas valve stays open till the thermostat is satisfied.

Sometimes the igniter will crack and no current will go through and the igniter will not even heat up or glow. Sometimes the igniter will wear to the point where it will still heat up and glow, but the current draw will not be high enough to allow the gas valve to open. This creates a confusing situation where you look into the oven and see the glow from the igniter, but get no heat because the burner never lights up. If this is the case then you will need to replace the igniter even though it seems to be okay. The only way to know for sure is to know what the current draw requirements are for that gas valve and to have an amp meter to check the current draw.

Most of the time the problem will be in the igniter, and not the gas valve. Gas valves can go bad, but that is the case in only a very small amount of the situations. It is a pretty safe bet that if you have a problem with you gas oven lighting that you have a problem with your igniter.

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3907570-buy_appliance_parts_online


http://www.fixya.com/support/r4388324-oven_fault_codes_ge_xl44_oven

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4391163-range_stove_oven_door_glass_replacement

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4404788-electric_oven_problem_oven_will_not_shut

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4319588-electric_oven_problems_not_use_in

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4154940-fault_codes_admiral_range_stove_oven

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3969401-self_cleaning_oven_problem

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3663023-oven_not_working_or_oven_not_heating

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3907570-buy_appliance_parts_online

on Dec 18, 2009 | Ovens

1 Answer

Oven cooks too fast and burns the food


My electric oven, Garland master 200 only reach a maximum of 250* and I only saw 1 of 3 elements turn red

Dec 14, 2012 | Garland Convection Oven - MCO-NAT Gas

2 Answers

Magic chef oven/stove top range not staying hot


Hi, It very well could be the ignitor. Sometimes they work at first and then will not open the gas valve later in cycle. You can set the oven to heat and watch the ignitor. If it glows and the gas will not ignite in 30 to 45 seconds, the igniter is getting weak. I jope this helps.
Please let me know if I can assit you further.

Vic

Jun 20, 2009 | GE JGRP17 Gas Single Oven

2 Answers

Delay in oven burner to light after pilot is lit.


Usually delayed lighting on a standing pilot system is caused by a gas pathway that is dirty from spilled food or grease. If you can remove the burner assembly and clean it that will correct the problem. If there is a removable plate above it then you can remove that and get access instead of removing it. Pilot ignitions work by creating a column of gas between the pilot and the burner that is established when the burner is turned on kind of like a fuse. A small tube my be used to establish the column of gas between burner and pilot and it may get blocked with food that overflows. Sometimes the pilot is just located right next to the burner and may get partially blocked or the orifice in the burner next to the pilot may be blocked. Cleaning all this helps. Be very careful with gas. Work in a well ventilated area. Turn on gas very briefly to run an ignition test. Turn off the gas and vent it off if it fails to light in about 5 seconds. Unburned propane drops to the floor and collects. Natural gas rises. Be aware of this when you ventilate.

Dec 23, 2008 | Magic Chef Ovens

1 Answer

Garland deck oven


your gas valve may be freeflowing you must have this checked right away

Sep 29, 2008 | Garland M-1 GL Gas Single Oven

1 Answer

Garland gas range


look at the bottom panel below the doors.on the left and right side youll see screws--remove them.open the doors and you should see 2 more screws.pull the panel out towards you.youll see the serial/model number on it or the frame of the oven.if the glow coil is red try to manually light the burner witha paper towel.if the burner lights, the burner may be obstructed --if not the gas valve may not be opening.you will need a voltage meter to test the coil on the gas valve.if you get the correct voltage on the valve coil which is 24 volts ac and no gas the valve is bad.if you dont have 24 volts the ignition board is bad.let me know.

Jan 20, 2008 | Ovens

1 Answer

Pilot light


Maybe. Sometimes these units have small throttle valves near the pilot. If it adjusts...make sure it is about 1/2 inch long....you don't want it blowing out.

Dec 21, 2007 | Garland M-1 GR Oven

2 Answers

New gas valve, new gas smell


CG, unfortunately you replaced the wrong part. The problem with your oven is the igniter. The igniter is wired in series with a safety valve. The safety valve monitors the amount of electrical current flowing through the igniter when you ask it to "bake".  When the igniter gets "weak" it won't allow current to flow through it properly, this will keep the oven from heating. It will also cause your symptoms as well...

Here's the scenario; Say your safety valve is "looking" for 2.5 amps of electricity flowing through it before it'll open up and allow gas to the manifold. Your igniter is designed to allow 2.8-3.2 amps to flow in good operating condition, but your igniter has become "weak"... it's now allowing 2.48-2.51 amps. The safety valve is sensing this and opening and closing rapidly, allowing gas to flow through it (fluttering). BUT! the igniter is not hot enough to ignite the gas and/or there is not enough gas to ignite do to the fluttering effect of the valve. Sometimes it'll light sometimes it won't.

Your igniter is the cause and needs to be replaced.

Before you begin the repair, you should have the new part on hand. The part number is WB2X9154 and can be purchased at your local appliance parts retailer for about $50.00. Here's one online for $65.00.

First, UNPLUG YOUR OVEN!

To replace it... Remove the racks and lower panel (oven floor). This will expose the burner manifold where the igniter is mounted.  (It's the round thing on the manifold near the back... it has 2 wires going into it.) You'll need a 1/4" socket or nut driver to remove it.

(*TIP---> before removing the screws from the igniter, put a few drops of liquid dish soap on the threads to lubricate them. If you do this, you will not strip the threads of the screws and it will ease their removal.)

The new igniter kit will have two ceramic wire nuts in it. Cut the two wires off of the old igniter and strip them back about 3/8". Then connect the wires of your new one to the wires in the oven using the ceramic wire nuts provided. Then mount the new igniter and rebuild the oven.

(*TIP---> The new igniter is very fragile! [that's why it came wrapped tightly in bubble wrap] Handle it gently!)

There ya go! Total job time? ~45 minutes.

Oct 09, 2007 | GE JGRP17 Gas Single Oven

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