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Estate TGDS680EQ3 gas dryer blows cold

Estate TGDS680EQ3 gas dryer suddenly stopped heating. (Lint is always cleaned out after every load.) Set it on Auto-Sense drying last night, and it was still running this morning- the dial did not move- even though the clothes were dry.

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The timer is stripped inside and needs to be replaced. The cogged teeth are made of plastic and a tooth or two has broken off keeping the timer from moving while running

Posted on Jul 16, 2010

  • fixerbrian Jul 16, 2010

    Thanks- That could be it for the Auto-Sense section. Although I just tried the Timed Dry and that works OK, but there still is no heat. Is there an ignition module or something that goes bad on the gas models?

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Dryer heats up for a couple of minutes and then stop heating and blow cold air


Try cleaning out your Lint Trap, this will be either on the door inside, or inside at the back of the dryer, this should just pull off, remove the built up lint and replace.

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Replaced ignitor, still no heat


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Dryer will not turn off is it the timer? the dial does not move


do you have heat?when the dryer heats up the timer doesn't move,when the heat shuts off the timer moves,when the heat comes back on the timer stops,the timer will not move if there's no heat.if you have heat it could be the timer.also run the dryer when it's cold for 15 to 30 minutes and check to see if the flame is still liting,there's a little cover on the front panel that you can pop off to see the flame,there's a set of gas coils on top of the gas valve that when they fail they will stop working when they heat up,when the coils cool down they will let the gas through and the flame will lite again,common problem with gas dryers and most likely your problem.also when was the last time you cleaned out the dryer,you need to blow out the vent line if it's a long run from the back of dryer to the outside i use a leaf blower to blow out the line,make sure the outside vent is clear so the air can blow through,next you need to clean out the duct that the lint filter slides into and vac out the inside of dryer where the motor is,you should do this once a year moreso with gas so you don't have a fire,also your clothes will dry on time and you'll have less problems with the dryer.let me know what you find.

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Estate gas dryer heats up but then flame goes out after around 30 seconds. Replaced the gas valve coils and the thermal fuse, but problem continues


It's likely the problem with the airflow. High limit thermostat is turning the gas valve off. Clean/replace the vent and lint trap.Check if there is anything stuck to the grille inside the dryer.

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Though the idea of repairing a clothes dryer can be pretty intimidating, the truth is that some types of repairs are surprisingly easy. Yes, dryers appear to be built like huge, impervious metal boxes, but they are typically pretty easy to open and relatively simple to fix.


As shown at How Clothes Dryers Works, a clothes dryer has a motor that turns a big drum containing the clothes, a heat source for blowing warm air into the drum to dry the clothes, and controls for operating the motor and heat source.
Some dryers have an electric element to do the heating while others utilize a gas flame; the latter must be vented.
Clothes dryer problems generally occur because the heat source doesn't heat properly or the motor fails to turn the drum.
If a gas dryer doesn't dry properly, the first thing to check is the pilot light or igniter--it may not be lighting the burner. The second thing to check is the dryer's vent-if it is clogged with lint, the heating system won't work properly.

Pay attention to basic safety measures when working on a dryer. Always unplug the dryer, and turn off the gas supply to a gas dryer at the appliance shutoff valve.
As with most appliances, maintenance will keep your dryer purring. Clean the lint trap after every load, and clean the vent system once a year.

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4 Answers

Estate dryer


If the dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat, any of the following components could be bad:

Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat

All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.


If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.

Now, if your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.
Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. You have to remove the entire front panel on some models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two RED leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set.


I hope this information is helpful to you. Post back with comments if you have any further questions.



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