Question about Kenmore 73952 Gas Dryer

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Dryer runs, gets warm, not hot, takes a LONG time to dry.

I have a Kenmore Elite HE3 (110.94834200) propane gas dryer. We live at about 7000 feet and the dryer has NEVER really seemed to get "hot'" even on a timed dry, high setting. It has gotten worse in the past few weeks. I have cleaned the vent and even have it unhooked at this point. I removed the front cover and watched the flame. It appears good. It takes 15 seconds to ignite, burns 50 seconds, goes off for 70 seconds, relights and burns about 25 seconds before going off but the inside of the drum only feels luke warm. Any suggestions?

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When u bought this dryer was it a high altitude model? the thin air dries clothes much more slowly, just allot less molecules of heated gas reaching the clothes, there should be a burner that will replace the one u have, contract sears and tell them the circumstance's.

Posted on Jul 15, 2010

  • bpeden1240 Jul 16, 2010

    Thanks for your reply.

    I don't know if it was specifically a high altitude model or not. That is a good thought and I will see what I can find out from Sears about a high altitude burner.

    Would an incorrect burner effect the burn time? Does the burn time of 50 seconds with 70 seconds off then relighting for
    25 seconds sound reasonable? I,m also wondering if there a possibility that a thermostat could be shutting the burner off too soon?

  • yadayada
    yadayada Jul 16, 2010

    the temp sensor in the air out stream may not be calibrated for high allitude, contact Sears parts for details

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Kenmore Elite HE4 Gas Dryer Shuts off prematurely in the Auto Dry cycle and the Timed dry cycle


Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK:

Thermal Fuse
If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement.

Igniter and Gas Valve Coils
TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At times it may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ?
Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant.
Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit.

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The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all.

Warning
There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire.

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werw
Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

Clean your dryer vents, and lint filters. You may need to clean vent from wall to outside. to test this.. unhook vent pipe from wall..and run dryer and see what happens. or you have a defective heat coil

I tried to help you. Please help me and Rate/Vote on my response. We take the time to answer your question. take the time to rate us.Thanks and good luck

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If your dryer is not drying like it once did or if you just have nottaken the time to give yourself a clean dryer in a long time then youneed to do that. At least once a year the dryer cleaning should takeplace. Lint build up in the dryer duct is one of the main causesfor your dryer to fail.

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Hope that helps...

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